supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

[blueka]

Looking good man!


Si

 

[Turdle]

Good Job Tim.

Take a little break and give your spine a rest.

 

[Kris Guilbeaux]

So you are not going to keep your factory keys and program them to the 5.0 computer?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

So you are not going to keep your factory keys and program them to the 5.0 computer?

No. I pulled the pats and the ring around they ignition from the parts truck, as well as the door locks.

 

[Spas]

Tim, I wear Jack's key as a necklace Still looking into someway to make artwork out of the little buggers, so don't throw it out! Try not to hurt your back too much... mine has finally quieted down but now I'm too scared to attempt anything for fear of it acting up again.

 

[GRNMACHINE]

Awesome Tim! Take some Flexiril! You deserve it.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

jon, linds, thats great advise....to bad i saw it when i came home......GRNMACHINE, for anything "good" we need a doctors prescription up here.

didnt do as much as i wanted to do today. went to the bone cracker right after work, and, well, i walked out felling worst then i did walking in

but, the trans is out now

was only able to remove the rad and condenser. as well as a few lines, and harnesses here and there. the fuel lines really started to piss me off, then something in mr. back moved in a way i really dont think it should have. thats when i said thats good for today.

all that is left is the motor mount bolts, fuel lines, and the power steering lines, then she's out. till then, i am going to have some supper which will be ibuprofen.

 

[Spas]

*steals some of Chris' percosets and offers them to Tim* Don't let Evil kill you, ok?

On a side note... you ARE going to clean up that frame a bit or at least paint over it before you finish the swap, right? It would be a pity to have such a pretty motor sitting between rusty, cruddy rails.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

*steals some of Chris' percosets and offers them to Tim* Don't let Evil kill you, ok?

T Y! *brings saki for lindsy* evil will kill me one way or another. it got its name for a reason! and right now, this song kinda describes me at the moment....or at least the chorus.

On a side note... you ARE going to clean up that frame a bit or at least paint over it before you finish the swap, right? It would be a pity to have such a pretty motor sitting between rusty, cruddy rails.

you mean in the engine bay? i would like to, but i will have to talk to my buddy about that one. its on his hoist and as it sits, i can drop her on the floor with the tires on.

so today, i got to celibate......somewhat.

hmmmmm front wheel drive?

thats right folks! that chain snapping, rattling, fuel **** of a 4L is OOOOOOOUT! it did take me a little more time then i normally take to pull one of these motors because
1. i will not be selling this when its done
2. i didnt want to ding or scratch it
3. i normally dont take this much out in one shot
4. i REALLY didnt want to ding or scratch it!!!!!

this truck always, and i mean ALWAYS fights me every step of the way when i want to do anything to it, but this time, it was like it wanted to come apart. nothing really gave me any troubles with the exception of the fuel lines.

isnt it cute sitting beside the 5L? almost wants to make you say "awwwwwwwwwe!"

i can now also see where the motor was leaking oil.

looks like the pan gasket, as well as chain cover gasket was shot.

so now, i can sleep happy (after a few pain killers once again) that the motor is out, and i didnt screw anything up. tomorrow i will start looking over what i do have to swap into the truck, and put it in. if buddy lets me, degrease the crap off the engine bay (have no clue how i will rinse it, figure something out), and start putting it all back together. so just remember. while you all are having fun on new years eve/day (and you know who you are, and i wish like mad i could be there), my lonely soul will be jamming in a motor.




and simon, this was what i was talking about. i cant remember where this goes?

 

[Turdle]

That is the ground strap-power cable bracket thingy, I think it bolts up under the left side motor mount plate.

Yes?

By the way, looks like you had a productive day.

 

[Kris Guilbeaux]

We did the same on the Rock Trac but after the truck was started we just added the original keys in to the 5.0 system and now the factory keys are now matched.

No. I pulled the pats and the ring around they ignition from the parts truck, as well as the door locks.

 

[corkey]

hmmm, trip to the city ??

 

[vroomzoomboom]

That is the ground strap-power cable bracket thingy, I think it bolts up under the left side motor mount plate.

Yes?

By the way, looks like you had a productive day.

jon, that does make some sense. i will look at the motor mount and see if there is a hole for it. i also have picks of the donor truck. i will look and see if there was anything on it.

We did the same on the Rock Trac but after the truck was started we just added the original keys in to the 5.0 system and now the factory keys are now matched.

i would, but i dont have a the ford scanner for it. btw, i was looking at the pics from the trac swap yesterday. when you put the motor in, did you have the complete motor mount on the motor, or did you put the rubber part into the frame, then laid the motor onto it? if you understand what i am talking about.

hmmm, trip to the city ??

come on down pete!

 

[blueka]

I'd help, but I'm a million miles away


Si

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I'd help, but I'm a million miles away


Si

noooooooo, your a phone call away. and i am sure you will get a few calls! lol

 

[Turdle]

I found it easier to set the motor onto the mount plates, which were already bolted in place. Use a drift pin to line the holes in the block to the plate from under the truck. It is one of those bolts which attaches the power cable bracket via a nut on the stud.

 

[vroomzoomboom]

I found it easier to set the motor onto the mount plates, which were already bolted in place. Use a drift pin to line the holes in the block to the plate from under the truck. It is one of those bolts which attaches the power cable bracket via a nut on the stud.

see that was another way i was thinking of doing, but wasnt sure if the cross member was in the way. i know if i where to unbolt the mount from the plate, its a nightmare to tighten the passenger side with the headers on, and the drivers side, all the lines are kind of in the path as well. i do want to drop the motor in with the headers on how ever. IIFC, 410fortune did it once.

 

[corkey]

where's the new pics ??

 

[vroomzoomboom]

just got home. going to sort threw them shorty, and upload what i have so far

 

[vroomzoomboom]

so here are some findings that i have. after bugging russ (NICE59FORDF100) he was kind enough to email me some wiring info. take note, this is for a 98 SOHC motor, and a 98 5L motor. these are the pics, and the directions on what he gave me

"ok, so ill try and run through this from memory...
\the following is the pinout for the 5.0 connector. Depending on the sport, it may be identical (going off of memory of the sport trac, which was different) Basically, you want to repin the 5.0 connector to match the 4.0 EBH (Engine Bay Harness) so the circuits are lined up. Alldata tells me your sport should be identical, however, i included an 01 connecter view (C139) for reference if it isnt.

1) RD/Y is your high ac pressure switch. This has to be cut off the sohc engine BAY harness (the connector with pigtail) and grafted into the engine harness of the 5.0 and ran through the connector

2) BK ground

3) not used

4) not used

5) BK/WH

6) GY/WH a/c compressor circuit

7) not used

[8)] DG/WH Oil Pressure gauge Circuit

9) Y/LB Starter, this wire goes from the starter relay to the starter itself

10) Not used

11) DG/WH Oil temp input, this would go to a message center if installed, the sport will not have this wire

12) WH/PK this is the low oil level circuit, same as above

now, if you encounter a Y/WH wire, this is basically a wire from the alternator regulator to the power supply that supplies a reference voltage. Without it hooked up, the engine will idle higher and the battery light will be on. to make it correct, run the Y/WH wire from the 4.0 EBH c125 connector to the power distribution box where the big battery cables attach. Hooking that up will solve the issue. Hopefully this all helps bud"



4L SOHC c125 connector

5L c125 connector

and what they look like

4L connector

5L connector.



and the a/c stuff. reason why is the connector is on the 4L harness, and goes to the switch on the compressor, vs the 5L is in the a/c line and closer to the rad support.

4L

5L

motor mounts

kinda wasnt thinking when i took the next shot, but.....

4L mounts

5L mounts (yes, i know the rad support has rust! )

now the power steering cooler. you might be able to use the 4L one by screwing around with the mounts on them, but i dont know if the lines would reach or not (and you have to use both the pressure, and return 5L lines as well, 4L will not work). however, you dont have to change the rack, it will work (and thank freaking god for that!).

4L power steering cooler is the one on top

4L mounted on rack

5L mounted on rack. as you can see, it sits a lot lower.

on the plus side, the lower a/c line coming out of the evaporator can be reused. it is the same length, and has all the same bends

now the shifter cable. i was going to replace this just because until i realized that i had drilled the grommet and ran a few wires threw it for my overhead console (outside temp sensor). i didnt want to cut the wires, put the cable in, then re drill the hole, then connect the wires back up. i walked over to the 5r55e that came out, and put the 5L shifter cable onto it, and ran threw the gears. it reached all of them, and it also clipped into the cable holder thingy on the trans. i then held it up to the one still in the truck. the only difference was one part (the 5r55e cable) was fatter in one spot. i dont think that will harm me, so i didnt bother switching them, and left the factory one in

4r70 cable is on top

throttle cable (no brainer there)

and e vap lines

this one had a few different bends in it, then the 4L did (hard to see from the pic) so i used it.

i am not 100% if the cruse motor is the same or not (cable, didnt look but i think it is longer) so i will use it. not sure it works or not cause i didnt try it, so i hope it does!

so thats it for differences that i have found so far. as for progress.....

....evil grew a pair tonight ! its in there, and bolted down. jon, unbolting the mounts from the motor, then dropping the motor onto them worked like a charm! it was so easy, i couldnt believe it. i almost had them lined up first crack! hell of a lot better then fighting and wiggling it into the frame.
so tomorrow i may or may not get the trans in. i was fighting with the rad, and loosing...big time. i wanted to get the motor stuff taken care of first. but if i get pissed off with it, on to the trans!

so with that i say, HAPPY NEW MOTOR.....er year.