I am in the market for a 5-6" suspension lift kit. I've already done my research on lifts and also know that I want to run the 33x12.50 Super Swamper SSR's. The two kits I am looking at are the 6" Skyjacker Class II kit and the 5.5" Superlift Superrunner kit with the Superrunner steering setup (since a lift of this size is a long-term investment I thought I might as well go all out). I am looking for feedback on both of these kits. Basically, how they hold up to abuse, how easy was the install (if a shop did it...how much did they charge), any unusual traits they have, and etc. I don't need any info on cost because I've basically layed out the cost of the kits and all necessary accessories and they price out pretty close. One last question...how dramatic are the drive line angles and steering geometry? Should I perform any addition modifications for these two concerns (i.e. purchase a new longer driveshaft and etc.) Thanks in advance for your help.
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Superlift or Skyjacker?
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Mat R
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I actually was just doing the same thing.... trying to figure out which lift to do....
I would reccommend against the Skyjacker and for the Superlift. The reason for this is that Skyjacker installs all new leaf springs in the rear which is not only more expensive, but also does not give you the ground clearence that a spring over(like Superlift uses) does.
I'm installing the Superlift 5.5" this weekend.
Mat
I would reccommend against the Skyjacker and for the Superlift. The reason for this is that Skyjacker installs all new leaf springs in the rear which is not only more expensive, but also does not give you the ground clearence that a spring over(like Superlift uses) does.
I'm installing the Superlift 5.5" this weekend.
Mat
DOGMAN
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Rob,
Sounds like you've been doing good research, the more the better is my advice.
I have a 91 4dr with the Superlift 5.5", including the Superrunner Steering and extended radius arms. I would recommend this over the Skyjacker, since it works for me as well as many others on this site. Skyjacker has a reputation for being hard to deal with should problems arise after the sale. I had a few problems myself with my Superlift, but they were very good about working with me and standing by their product.
The Superrunner Steering is a worthwhile investment -- I'm completely satisfied with mine.
Since the springover reuses the stock springs, I took my springs to a spring shop and had them take them apart, clean each one separately, install new spacers and anti-friction pads, and repaint the leaves seperately before reinstallation. Also check the bushings and replace if worn, I'd stay with the stock rubber bushing over a poly one, the ride is better and you get more flex. I also changed the spring pack clamps to the bolt style that leaves room for the leaves to separate when at droop. All this adds up to a more comfortable ride and maximum articulation.
I had a new rear driveshaft made to accomodate the height increase. It would be a good idea to have someone with experience check yours after the lift to insure that you have enough driveshaft. I also had the pinion angle matched to the output angle of the transfer case, this will limit vibration. Also, I had the rear spring perches supplied by Superlift welded to the axle housing, instead of just being clamped -- better safe than sorry.
I am running 33x12.50 Swamper SSR's. They are a great tire, but they can be a little loud if you're not used to a specialty tire, and they are harder to keep balanced than a normal mud tire, so you'll have to put up with more vibration than say a BFG mud. They perform very well though, off and on road. They are heavier than a similar mud tire, mine weigh 66 lbs each, without the wheels. If you just want the Swampers for looks, I'd suggest going with BFG's or something similar. But offroad, the Swampers are hard to beat, so I don't mind putting up with them on the road.
Which brings us to gearing. I, like many others running 33's, am running 4.56 gears. I have a Detroit Locker in the rear and a Trak-Loc in the front. If you run 33" SSR's, you're going to have to run 4.56 gears, unless you drive downhill all the time. All this can get quite expensive, so be forewarned. It is very important to get someone good and experienced to do your gear swap, otherwise the gears can be noisy and vulnerable to premature failure.
One other thing. The SSR's are actually 33.4" tall, which is tall for a 33" tire. It's great for ground clearance, but you will have a rubbing problem on the front fenders. I'm using Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels with a 3 3/8" backspacing, which sets the wheels outboard slightly. I had to trim the front fenders quite a bit, taking off almost 3" at the back bottom of each fender. I had a custom street rod builder do the body work, and it looks great, but again, more money.......
I would highly recommend using Rancho 9000 shocks at the corners. They're simply the best, that's why you see everyone who is serious about their rig use them.
All in all, everything has held up well -- I've had my lift for almost 2 years. The front springs will settle somewhat, many other Superlift customers will back me up on that. I had my lift done by a good 4x4 shop, the labor charge (I don't remember exactly), including the steering and radius arms, was about $800-900. But you really need to take into account the gearing, possible bodywork, driveshaft, etc for a finished price.
Sounds like you're headed in the right direction, but again, be aware that what you're trying to do is probably going to cost you quite a bit more than you might think.
Good luck and keep asking questions.
Sounds like you've been doing good research, the more the better is my advice.
I have a 91 4dr with the Superlift 5.5", including the Superrunner Steering and extended radius arms. I would recommend this over the Skyjacker, since it works for me as well as many others on this site. Skyjacker has a reputation for being hard to deal with should problems arise after the sale. I had a few problems myself with my Superlift, but they were very good about working with me and standing by their product.
The Superrunner Steering is a worthwhile investment -- I'm completely satisfied with mine.
Since the springover reuses the stock springs, I took my springs to a spring shop and had them take them apart, clean each one separately, install new spacers and anti-friction pads, and repaint the leaves seperately before reinstallation. Also check the bushings and replace if worn, I'd stay with the stock rubber bushing over a poly one, the ride is better and you get more flex. I also changed the spring pack clamps to the bolt style that leaves room for the leaves to separate when at droop. All this adds up to a more comfortable ride and maximum articulation.
I had a new rear driveshaft made to accomodate the height increase. It would be a good idea to have someone with experience check yours after the lift to insure that you have enough driveshaft. I also had the pinion angle matched to the output angle of the transfer case, this will limit vibration. Also, I had the rear spring perches supplied by Superlift welded to the axle housing, instead of just being clamped -- better safe than sorry.
I am running 33x12.50 Swamper SSR's. They are a great tire, but they can be a little loud if you're not used to a specialty tire, and they are harder to keep balanced than a normal mud tire, so you'll have to put up with more vibration than say a BFG mud. They perform very well though, off and on road. They are heavier than a similar mud tire, mine weigh 66 lbs each, without the wheels. If you just want the Swampers for looks, I'd suggest going with BFG's or something similar. But offroad, the Swampers are hard to beat, so I don't mind putting up with them on the road.
Which brings us to gearing. I, like many others running 33's, am running 4.56 gears. I have a Detroit Locker in the rear and a Trak-Loc in the front. If you run 33" SSR's, you're going to have to run 4.56 gears, unless you drive downhill all the time. All this can get quite expensive, so be forewarned. It is very important to get someone good and experienced to do your gear swap, otherwise the gears can be noisy and vulnerable to premature failure.
One other thing. The SSR's are actually 33.4" tall, which is tall for a 33" tire. It's great for ground clearance, but you will have a rubbing problem on the front fenders. I'm using Mickey Thompson Classic II wheels with a 3 3/8" backspacing, which sets the wheels outboard slightly. I had to trim the front fenders quite a bit, taking off almost 3" at the back bottom of each fender. I had a custom street rod builder do the body work, and it looks great, but again, more money.......
I would highly recommend using Rancho 9000 shocks at the corners. They're simply the best, that's why you see everyone who is serious about their rig use them.
All in all, everything has held up well -- I've had my lift for almost 2 years. The front springs will settle somewhat, many other Superlift customers will back me up on that. I had my lift done by a good 4x4 shop, the labor charge (I don't remember exactly), including the steering and radius arms, was about $800-900. But you really need to take into account the gearing, possible bodywork, driveshaft, etc for a finished price.
Sounds like you're headed in the right direction, but again, be aware that what you're trying to do is probably going to cost you quite a bit more than you might think.
Good luck and keep asking questions.
Mat and Dogman,
I appreciate the input both of you provided...exactly what I was looking for. I've been reading comments all over this site and the info both of you provided and have decided to sport the 5.5" Superlift kit with the Superrunner upgrade and Superrunner steering. I'll more than likely run 4.10's for gas mileage purposes, install Rancho RS 9000's, and get my stock rear springs redone like Dogman suggested. After reading about your comments on the Super Swamper SSR's I'm going to reconsider possibly 33" BFG Mud Terrains or the new 33" Goodyear MT/R's. I was wondering if the components with the Superlift kit come painted in yellow or are they black? I've seen some kits installed yellow (radius arms, coils, Superrunner steering, and etc.) and in ads I've seen them black. It really doesn't much matter to me but I was just curious. Again, thanks for the information and advice, it is much appreciated.
I appreciate the input both of you provided...exactly what I was looking for. I've been reading comments all over this site and the info both of you provided and have decided to sport the 5.5" Superlift kit with the Superrunner upgrade and Superrunner steering. I'll more than likely run 4.10's for gas mileage purposes, install Rancho RS 9000's, and get my stock rear springs redone like Dogman suggested. After reading about your comments on the Super Swamper SSR's I'm going to reconsider possibly 33" BFG Mud Terrains or the new 33" Goodyear MT/R's. I was wondering if the components with the Superlift kit come painted in yellow or are they black? I've seen some kits installed yellow (radius arms, coils, Superrunner steering, and etc.) and in ads I've seen them black. It really doesn't much matter to me but I was just curious. Again, thanks for the information and advice, it is much appreciated.
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All superlift components are black. They used to be yellow but they stopped that around three or so years ago.
DOGMAN
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Rob,
Do you have an auto or a 5-speed? If you use 4.10 gears with an auto and 33" tires, you will be better off than with the same setup with a 5-speed, since the auto provides a degree of torque multiplication, especially at slow speeds.
If you have a 5-speed, definitely go with 4.56 gears. I have a 5-speed, and I was running 4.10 gears with the 33" SSR's before I changed to 4.56. I actually get better mileage with the 4.56 gears than with the 4.10's, even though I am running at higher RPM. This is because the motor is operating closer to the original power band that it was designed for.
So my advice is: Since you are going to change gears anyway, I would opt for the 4.56's. You'll be glad you did. When you install bigger and heavier tires along with heavier springs, radius arms, shocks, etc., you are adding considerable weight to the vehicle, as well as increasing the torque needed to rotate the taller tire. Also, when you lift the vehicle, the frontal area will increase appreciably, which creates more aerodynamic drag, which also robs horsepower. So do yourself a favor, install 4.56 gears. You'll thank yourself the first time you climb a long grade on the highway, or make a steep climb on the trail.
Good luck.
Do you have an auto or a 5-speed? If you use 4.10 gears with an auto and 33" tires, you will be better off than with the same setup with a 5-speed, since the auto provides a degree of torque multiplication, especially at slow speeds.
If you have a 5-speed, definitely go with 4.56 gears. I have a 5-speed, and I was running 4.10 gears with the 33" SSR's before I changed to 4.56. I actually get better mileage with the 4.56 gears than with the 4.10's, even though I am running at higher RPM. This is because the motor is operating closer to the original power band that it was designed for.
So my advice is: Since you are going to change gears anyway, I would opt for the 4.56's. You'll be glad you did. When you install bigger and heavier tires along with heavier springs, radius arms, shocks, etc., you are adding considerable weight to the vehicle, as well as increasing the torque needed to rotate the taller tire. Also, when you lift the vehicle, the frontal area will increase appreciably, which creates more aerodynamic drag, which also robs horsepower. So do yourself a favor, install 4.56 gears. You'll thank yourself the first time you climb a long grade on the highway, or make a steep climb on the trail.
Good luck.
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I have the superlift suspension on my 92 ranger and hate it! I upgraded the radius arms and the superrunner stearing and hate the ride. I put the 6 inch Skyjacker on my Explorer and it it so much of a softer ride than the superlift. I dont know if anyone else has any experience with the two lifts but I like my skyjacker better than my superlift. It may be that I just am in need of new shocks on the Ranger but I get the sh*$ kicked out of me when off-roading the ranger. Just my opinion.
RFR2212
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I was doin a seach for front lockers and came across this thread....4xFoor..Have you gotten your lift and what not, I'm curious as to what ya got...I agree with trckmagik on the skyjacker...I have no exprience with the superlift but love my skyjacker....just hoping to here what ya did with your truck....Pete
Selling the Explorer
Hello Pete,
No, I didn't get the lift kit. In fact, I am currently selling my Explorer and plan to purchase a Mustang GT. If I was going to keep my Explorer, however, I would have installed the Superlift 5.5" kit based on maximizing ground clearance with the SOA method and the ability to re-use my stock rear leaf springs. I owned a Skyjacker 4" lift kit installed on my previously owned F-150 and was not impressed with the quality and craftmanship. They also were not very helpful and friendly when it came to after-sale service (I cracked the driver's side radius arm drop bracket and they said they would have to separate a kit and sell me the one piece I needed...which they would not do and then suggested I weld the crack). I enjoy using my Explorer, but I don't use it often enough for off-roading purposes to be spending the amount of money required to lift it correctly (or lift it at all for that matter). Thanks for your interest and reply to this thread.
Hello Pete,
No, I didn't get the lift kit. In fact, I am currently selling my Explorer and plan to purchase a Mustang GT. If I was going to keep my Explorer, however, I would have installed the Superlift 5.5" kit based on maximizing ground clearance with the SOA method and the ability to re-use my stock rear leaf springs. I owned a Skyjacker 4" lift kit installed on my previously owned F-150 and was not impressed with the quality and craftmanship. They also were not very helpful and friendly when it came to after-sale service (I cracked the driver's side radius arm drop bracket and they said they would have to separate a kit and sell me the one piece I needed...which they would not do and then suggested I weld the crack). I enjoy using my Explorer, but I don't use it often enough for off-roading purposes to be spending the amount of money required to lift it correctly (or lift it at all for that matter). Thanks for your interest and reply to this thread.
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