Synthetic Oil?

[rpenner54]

Anyone know what the right proccess for switching over to synthetic oil might be? I want to put in in the XLT since it doesn't leak anywhere that I can tell. Is there something you have to do the "wash" out the regular oil with synthetic?

 

[AgExplorer]

We recommend using an engine flush before switching. Due to their chemical compostion, synthetic motor oils have a strong detergent action that will clean the internals of the engine. The engine deposits and build up which are loosened will cause the oil filter to be clogged prematurely. The flush removes all the junk and the synthetic will keep it clean. A cleaner engine runs cooler and more efficiently.

 

[rpenner54]

Cool thats what I thought. Is this a machine that you have to hook the motor up to then?

 

[DocVijay]

I never flushed.

I just emptied old oil and put in new synthetic. Never had any problems with either car. I might just be lucky, but it seems like a lot of extra work that may not be neccessary.

 

[rpenner54]

Re: I never flushed.

Originally posted by DocVijay
I just emptied old oil and put in new synthetic. Never had any problems with either car. I might just be lucky, but it seems like a lot of extra work that may not be neccessary.

On a newer car that would make sense. However my XLT has 119k on it so I know its got a bit of buildup in it so I want to get that cleaned out.

 

[DocVijay]

Good point.

 

[SteveVB]

change the filter more often at the start

Ryan I dont know about flushing , I didnt when I changed over my Navajo- but I only had about 45k on it at the time.
One thing to think about is changing the filters frequently right after you switch to deal with increased cleaning action of the Syn. When I start a new engine I usually run one filter at cam breakin another filter at 500miles, another at 1000, and then another at 3000. You may want to try something along those lines. I dont have any scientific evidence that it does anything but give me peace of mind, and the couple extra quarts of oil and the $10 in filters isnt a big deal.

 

[AgExplorer]

Ryan,

A can of AMSOIL Engine Flush (Item# AEF-CN) is all you would need. You may want to put a cheap, fresh filter on before doing this to get the best benefit. Get the engine up to operating temp, pour it in the crankcase (with engine off), restart and run at a fast idle (1200 to 1500 RPM) for 20 to 30 minutes. (Do not drive the vehicle with the flush in it.) Then just do your normal oil and filter change.

I have used it many times with no ill effects to any vehicle.

 

[Mark Drysdale]

Have any one tried the K&N Performance Gold Oil Filters, are they any good and any experience of Redline Synthetics (5/30)

 

[RTStork]

I have switched on several vehicles that had high miles. No leaks or problems yet.

 

[JDraper]

Flushing a high mileage engine is a nono!! You will most likely generate lots of leaks, and the stuff you loosen may clog oil passageways. Personally, on a high mileage engine, I wouldn't switch to a synthetic. Your engine is already worn, and I don't think you will see any benefit from the synthetics.

 

[01EB5.0]

I don't know what you guys consider high milage, but I did the flush on my 95 with 104K on it. I qalso put in 5W30 Amsoil synthetic oil and it has been fine. No leaks, no problems. If you have run only reg. oil so far, I would say the flush would be benificial. The leaking oil people speak of may happen switching to synthetic even if you don't do the flush. I would still recommend synthetic though. It flows better in the winter and can withstand more milage and higher temps. The oil I have now is rated for 25,000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. I don't have to change my oil until next summer, which really makes me happy. All I have to do is replace the filter in february and I'm set. i highly recommend Amsoil's full synthetic 5W30.

 

[timfretwell]

I just let the old oil drain for a really long time, until it wasn't even dripping at all anymore. Then I bumped the key a few times just to rotate the crank, and let it drain a while longer. I've had no problems what so ever. Not even any leaks, as I have heard of. You shouldn't have any problems.

 

[jimmiecakes]

I have to be a little wary of Amsoils ambiguous claim as to synthetic oil "not breaking down". Conventional motor oil doesn't break down either..... the base stock pretty much remains "base stock". What does break down are the various additives - antioxidants can only prevent so much oxidation before they are used up - antifoamants, ditto - and so on for all the sundry "improvers".

The same would hold true for synthetic base stocks. Your motor still needs protection from the effects of oxidation, acid formation... the list goes on.

In my experience, synthetics really shine in areas of thermal stability (the oil exhibits the same characteristics over a wide temperature range) and resistance to viscosity change (a side effect of the thermal stability since conventional base stocks require viscosity improvers - basically polymer chains which can be subject to shear - to achieve thermal stability).

After toying with synthetics for many years (and living in a climate where ambient temps go from -40 to +90F over the course of the year), I find it hard to justify the extra expense of synthetics and I refuse to stray from the recommendations set out by the people that designed my motor.

The two biggest enemies of your motor are dirt and cold starts.