T3 T4 Hybrid Turbo OHV

[Caejxr]

I got the 36" MAF pig tail from like JEGS or summit or something I cant really remember and I added in about 6" of extra length on top of the 4 or 5 off the original MAF connector so its about 47" or 4ft. But I followed the wiring as laid out on the previously posted forums link because it's the same.

I traced the original wire looms to where I linked them to a single new one since the picture is sort of dark. It runs over the top of the radiator and down the drivers side of it to where the slot MAF will go. In the picture you can see the extra coiled wiring.

 

[jd4242]

Why are you moving the IAT??you get better accurate readings where it is stock,in the manifold

 

[Caejxr]

Why are you moving the IAT??you get better accurate readings where it is stock,in the manifold

I'm getting rid of the stock IAT sensor that is located in the stock intake tube because A) it's dead, B) there's one built into the slot MAF that is going in C) that old intake tube is going away making the slot MAF a better option than an extra sensor.


Also why do you say the old sensor is more accurate? If that was so why would all new vehicles using slot MAFs be using the built in IAT and not a seperate IAT sensor that you find in older vehicles. Can't figure it's purely for simplicity.

Not to mention in a blow through set up without water or meth injection it will function the same as the stock IAT. I would agree with you if I was going to keep it draw through.

 

[jd4242]

I'm getting rid of the stock IAT sensor that is located in the stock intake tube because A) it's dead, B) there's one built into the slot MAF that is going in C) that old intake tube is going away making the slot MAF a better option than an extra sensor.


Also why do you say the old sensor is more accurate? If that was so why would all new vehicles using slot MAFs be using the built in IAT and not a seperate IAT sensor that you find in older vehicles. Can't figure it's purely for simplicity.

Not to mention in a blow through set up without water or meth injection it will function the same as the stock IAT. I would agree with you if I was going to keep it draw through.

I keep forgetting yours is a 97..cant remember if yours is in the upper intake manifold behind TB but obviously its not if you said it was in the intake tube..the closer you can get the IAT sensor to where air is entering the cylinder is most accurate..on the earlier models its not part of the maf..some never models use two sensors also..get it to far away from cylinder and alot of extra heat can be picked up from intake tube (especially if its running ontop or behind radiator ) or even heat from the upper manifold.all wouldnt be read or adjust for

If you use w/m the sensor still needs to be after the injection and far enough away that the spray isnt spraying right on it..the motor will need to read the air temps thats actually going into the cylinder. .if the sensor is before you wont gain any timing gains as its still reading the hot air before it

 

[Caejxr]

That's probably a good explanation. Location of my maf will be to the side of the radiator a bit lower than the headlight. Not perfect, not aweful.

 

[Caejxr]

MAF housing showed up today while working. I've got the night watch so it won't go in until tomorrow when I go home. Still anxiously waiting to get more word on tuning.

 

[Caejxr]

MAF is in place and LC1 wideband kit is on order for next week. Wideband is going in after the turbo to read both banks and keep it out of the way. I'm going to have pipe bent and welded in so it will be accurate and no leaks. It's getting pretty close now. Not sure if the tuning will be complete by the time truck haven gets here though. If not, ill take it out to Johnson valley or Big Bear for a good offroad run when its complete.

 

[Caejxr]

Busy day. Off today. Got the exhaust finished with real pipe and trashed the flex garbage. Also got the wideband gauge and lc2 controller in. Pictures soon.

 

[Caejxr]

new y pipes and down pipe. The wideband 02 is behind the turbo over the frame in the y pipe.

the wideband gauge on the sheet metal plate I made. The controller is barely visible at the bottom tucked underneath.

 

[Dono]

Nice job on the plumbing!

any progress on the tuning?

 

[Rick]

Nice job

 

[Caejxr]

Thanks for the compliments guys but I can't take all the credit. I had a local shop bend up the pipes for me and oxy fuel weld them on. All I did myself was place the sensor bung and weld it on. No luck on tuning yet. Based on timing I don't think it will be done this month so I'm starting to think about buying the pro racer software and doing it myself. Will cost close to the same and it gives me more flexibilty in the future.

 

[Rick]

That's ok, they bent the tubes to match your vision

Who makes the pro racer software you are looking into?

 

[jd4242]

Ive heard through the grate vine that James isnt doing tuning anymore..or least not remote

 

[Caejxr]

That's ok, they bent the tubes to match your vision

Who makes the pro racer software you are looking into?

SCT makes it. Big for me since it will work with the hand held I have.

Ive heard through the grate vine that James isnt doing tuning anymore..or least not remote

James is still doing remote tunes I have been in e-mail contact with him.


He's been really slow and short/vauge with replies. I don't know if he's just that busy or isnt interested in my business that much...Just seems in my opinion to be unwilling to work with my setup. More specifically, he prefers a lot of things a lot of ways that dont seem necessary/practical to me for my build.

I'm not going for maximum horse power on my build or looking to build a race car here I just need my system to support my build looking at it holistically, it does.
I'm working with limitations and contraints (snorkel, space, etc.) that make a few things like a 3+ inch intake pipe and 42 lb injectors impractical for my build. Im rich across the rpm range right now no more lean at 15-16 for an AFR and 19-21 AFR at idle theres enough fuel available with 36lb injectors. I see 12.5 on start up and it slowly begins to lean out a little closer to stoichiometric afr. There's plenty of air getting in to build boost and add a noticible amount of power even drawing through my snorkel and blowing through a 2.5" pipe. It's the same size as the throttle body and so far it all works fine for me...if someone can explain to me with a logical fact based explanation why these won't work I'll reconsider but I'm not trying to build 300hp on stock heads, cam, pistons, rods, valves, springs, etc. with a 19+ yr old ohv on an m5od... Probably between 200-250 if I could guess...

Another reason I'm thinking I just buy the software and educate myself. If I do decide to make future modifications I can retune with what I would have instead of paying another wad of cash to retune again and I can fine tune as required for whatever conditions or tweaks I may want to no added cost, no middleman and I'll become that much more self reliant and familiar with my vehicle. A lot of benefits.

all I need is the software. I have everything else except a dyno...which I dont think is necessary to find a place with one. I'm able to data log under real conditions on the Hwy, Low range off road, that's what I need. Not WOT 5k + RPM. I don't drive like that.

Con: I dont have the experience so there may be some trial and error/added time.

Maybe I'm convincing myself but it seems like a worth while investment for my off road fun/hobby (you could probably call it that)

 

[jd4242]

You may want to contact him again..i heard he just decided not to do tuning like this week...and yes any tuner is gonna want you to have what they want,thats just how they work..i agree with you in many areas about what you want or need..

Just to give you an idea,my full built camed,high compression supercharged motor at 10 psi only put down 210 hp....but that because of gears and tire size.these motors are not hp kings..stock with stock tires they put down roughly 130-140ish hp. .you can figure about 8-10 hp per pound of boost and thats on the high side for a stock motor..realistically your probably around 5-6 hp per pound

 

[Caejxr]

That's right in the ball park of what I was thinking. Figured I wouldn't get over 210. But, that's a significant gain over stock in my book and just what the doctor ordered.

 

[Dono]

I think James is filling his time in a less aggravating and I'd expect more profitable direction. I can't imagine it was exactly paying the bills and I can see how difficult it would be to guess what's really happening when something he's seeing doesn't make sense.

 

[Caejxr]

I think James is filling his time in a less aggravating and I'd expect more profitable direction. I can't imagine it was exactly paying the bills and I can see how difficult it would be to guess what's really happening when something he's seeing doesn't make sense.

I do imagine it is quite difficult not having the subject vehicle right there to know what is going on under what specific conditions. Even more reason I'm just going to buy the software and get smart. Planning on pulling the trigger this month.

 

[Caejxr]

Trigger pulled! Software downloaded, base tune received. Should have the licensing dongle soon and the detailed tuning book from lasota racing. Soon as it comes in I'll load the base tune data log and set at it. Should be fun.