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Pulled off the rear axle shock mount and that stupid weight that was hitting stuff on the trails.

Broke a front driving light last time out, so replaced them with some newer ones. Moved them to the brush guard, on the sides of the tag.

Got longer end links on the front disconnects. Easy removal & install now :)

Post some pics this weekend.

I'm also having a very tough time finding hubcentric rings that are .500" thick that fit the hubs. I know they are out there, just have to find them. Custom made rings are over $100, and rings off the shelf are less than $20. It has a death wobble at 45 mph right now and is bad enough that it cant be on the highway. I am also afraid that the wheel lug holes are going to get out of round the way it is.
 






Another installment in the diary of The Black Hole. :)

I found the right size of Hub-centric spacers, they are on the way...Whoo Hoo!:bounce:

With the help of 88comingup, we installed the 1354 Manual Transfer case today. Everything went smooth, and it is working great.....Whoo Hoo X2!!:bounce::bounce:

I am still on the hunt for a shifter for it :( But I have a loaner for mock up till I find one :)

Thanks to some PM help with gijoecam, mountaineergreen, & bronco2guy, I got the front CAD diff sorted out. This "how to thread" Worked like a charm in getting my wiring the CAD to a manual operating system.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88718

I have no CEL, and no flashing 4x4 lights.

I can now install a front locker in it. Whoo Hoo X3!!!:bounce::bounce::bounce:
 






Congrats on the manual case install, with the way my t-case acts without taking it wheeling as hard as you do I question whether to install one in mine. Are you going to have to bend the shifter for it to clear your center console or are you taking it through the side of the tunnel?
 






Congrats on the manual case install, with the way my t-case acts without taking it wheeling as hard as you do I question whether to install one in mine. Are you going to have to bend the shifter for it to clear your center console or are you taking it through the side of the tunnel?

I will go through the side, plus give it a little bend so it dont rub the console.

I have been waiting for awhile for this mod. I am happy I finally got rid of the 4405.
 


















Sorry about the broken picture links. PB is holding all my stuff for ransom, and is extorting me for $$. I refuse to give in to their demands.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Another weekend project has started on the rig :)

I have been wanting to get my spare off the roof and into the cargo area when wheeling. The center of gravity is real bad with spare up there, plus a 3" body lift sure don't help matters.

So here is phase 1 of the project. The build:


I used a 2.5"x1/4" sq tube for a receiver. Welded on a square plate after cutting a square hole in the middle.



Made the carrier from 2"x1/4" sq tube, a piece of 2"x4"x1/4" sq tube, and a 1/4" plate.



The plate will attach to a spare 2nd gen hub, than the tire to the hub. Good place to carry a spare hub. I have it angled at 45 degrees.



The receiver will be bolted to the floor in the cargo area with some plating underneath for added support. I will be going to 35" one day, so
I left enough room on the carrier tube so it can be lifted to fit a larger tire.

Once it is all fitted, it is off to the sandblaster, than some powder coat. I will try to get it in tomorrow. I am very proud of how this is turning out. I am a novice to fab work, and my welds actually came out decent enough for this.

Test fit:


First I had to cut a hole for the receiver. Finding the right spot was a pita. In the middle of the cargo area there is a pinch fold of metal that limits to where I could install this front to back. I needed room for the carrier to slide down with no interference. I ended up having it right against the pinch fold. I used some angle iron for added support underneath.


Here it is installed temporarily.


Installed with interior replaced


Minus the tire


Removed with plug in place


The Kit minus the hub with some paint to hold it over till it can be powder coated.




I can now have a spare inside and not taking up the entire cargo area. I'm happy with it. :)
 












Nice rig I love the front discos'
 






Nice work! Would definitely be better to have.
 






So far the powertrax is on my list. Richmond tech says they have one that will work. I dont want a torsen, since I have the CAD.

So why is it necessary to run the CAD with a front locker, from everything I have seen the CAD only works on an open front diff, the thing that is important with the front diff is that you have a 2wd so no power is being applied to the locker, this is what many J**p's run and have no problems.
 






The cad works whether you have a locked or open diff, the cad is on a couple inches to the right of the pumpkin that breaks the axle shaft so whether the diff is locked or open it doesn't matter to the cad.
 






So why is it necessary to run the CAD with a front locker, from everything I have seen the CAD only works on an open front diff, the thing that is important with the front diff is that you have a 2wd so no power is being applied to the locker, this is what many J**p's run and have no problems.

The CAD only separates the pass side axle. It is only necessary with the style of locker I will be running. Lunchbox only work when power is applied. The Cad style is open to begin with.

I will have 2wd, 3wd, and 4wd, with manual t-case, the Jdraper mod, a lunchbox locker and CAD. All 4 of these combined to do this.

Here is the link to the Jdraper mod
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88718
 






The cad works whether you have a locked or open diff, the cad is on a couple inches to the right of the pumpkin that breaks the axle shaft so whether the diff is locked or open it doesn't matter to the cad.

I understand that it is on the passenger side shaft but all you allowing it to do with the locker is make it 3 wheel drive when it is dissconnected and 4 when its engaged, thats why it worked with open diff because when the passenger side is dissconnected the power went to that side leaving it in 2wd then when it was engaged it allowed the truck to be in 4wd. So what I'm getting at is it is not necessary to run a CAD with a front locker like what I keep getting told, unless there is something to it that I'm not seeing.
 






This convo is covered in a few threads. Cad and a locker = can be used for a DD

By using the CAD instead of a full time live 97+ axle with a locker, you will get:

2wd H for better MPG, DD, flat trails, etc...

2wd L (better with manual t-case), great for wheeling, can just use rear drive to save IFS damage.

3wd H&L, this is great for wheeling, can shut the pass side off for certain situations. Think of this as having an air locker that can be shut off when needed.

4wd H&L, Full on true 4x4 with traction to all 4.

The most common benefits are when using for street driving. This separation of the pass axle just allows for better street driving. No drive line bind using the CAD.
The Locker will stay engaged due to the Dr side axle config. The Cad makes it an open setup as the intermediate axle is disconnected from the pass side. The driveshaft will turn with the Dr wheel at all times with a lunchbox locker. At least on the Lock Rite locker it will. You will only feel the Dr side pull (CAD Off) when t-case is in 4wd, and will not feel it at all in 2wd.
 





















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