Tighten your caliper bracket bolts!

[1998rollover]

How would you see that contamination if you don't remove those bolts?
I think that avoiding maintenance because of that reason is dangerous. I always remove those bolts to lubricate the sliding pins, put them back tight and, in 20 years, never had one backing out. Never used blue locktite either. Probably most of the people that complained used either lubricant or anti-seize on those bolts.

On the other hand I saw pins that didn't get serviced in 10 years and the baked grease was caused pads to drag and overheat the whole caliper... leading eventually to leaks at the cylinder gasket.

I put new pads on an F350 last week. Same four wheel disc setup as the Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer, but larger. On the right side, one slider pin in each caliper was seized. I took them out, cleaned them, applied the proper grease and put them back in.

Now that the brakes are 100% on both sides of the truck, it stops really well. The trailer brake control had to be cut back quite a bit to keep the trailer brakes from locking now that the truck takes more of the load.

I use a 14" long SK 1/2" drive ratchet and put a lot of force on the bracket bolts when they've been removed. Haven't had any come loose yet.

I also have a 17" long Titan 3/8" drive ratchet that is NOT a swivel head. I got it at an automotive paint supplies store. Dunno WTH such a place had tools for sale but when I saw that I said "Merry Christmas!" grabbed it and eagerly smacked the $25 on the counter.

What the #$#%@# took a tool company so bleeping long to make an extra long NON-SWIVEL 3/8" ratchet? I use that ratchet so much, it's smaller head gets into places no 1/2" one can and with its length can bust loose bolts and nuts in those nearly inaccessible places.

 

[Turdle]

Bump for the newcomers.

 

[jimster502]

Yeah I wish I had seen this about 3 years ago..I replaced my front pads and rotors and went to school the next day..after a couple of,min on the freeway, I kept hearing this grinding sound whenever I braked..I got to school and couldn't see anything from underneath so I jacked it up and removed the wheel and there I saw that one of the bolts on the caliper had fallen off and made the caliper slip and grind on the inside of my wheel..drove carefully back home bought another set of bolts and put loctite and both sides...never had a problem since lol

 

[skid2964]

Wish I had seen this before!
I'm on the side of the road as I type this waiting for a tow truck...

One of my caliper bolts has fallen out, luckily I was going slow through a construction zone.
I see some deep gouges inside my wheel but I'm still rolling... Now I need to find some replacement bolts!

 

[jimster502]

Wish I had seen this before!
I'm on the side of the road as I type this waiting for a tow truck...

One of my caliper bolts has fallen out, luckily I was going slow through a construction zone.
I see some deep gouges inside my wheel but I'm still rolling... Now I need to find some replacement bolts!

Well I don't know what state you live in, but I bought mine at NAPA auto parts..and they weren't that expensive neither, I believe they cost me like $7

 

[acoustiplorer]

Count me in as another that had this happen after a pad swap. Heard a grinding whenever I braked, took it to a shop and the entire bolt was gone. Felt like a doofus at the time, less so now.

 

[swshawaii]

^ Did you remove the caliper brackets to replace the pads? Unless you're replacing the adapter brackets, there's no reason to remove them. Gen 2 torque spec is 98 ft/lbs. or wheel lug nut tight. As previously mentioned, when the bolts are removed, cleaning the threads with a small wire brush and adding drop of red Loctite can be a life saver.

 

[96eb96]

I went for inspection recently and an ex came back on the hook with a flat tire after a recent brake job for that problem. I overheard the guy on phone calling places for a 97 wheel rim. Even pros mess up.

 

[Fredness]

For the caliper bracket bolts, I've always torqued to 90lbs with Blue Loctite - No issues in the past 16 years to Explorer ownership.

Now, the Caliper Slider Pins - those get caliper grease and REPLACED with each brake job.
Yeah, apparently Ford regards them as "torque to yield" and therefore not fit for reuse.

 

[ewalt98]

Now, the Caliper Slider Pins - those get caliper grease and REPLACED with each brake job.

I just went through some brake rattle noise issues after changing my pads. Turned out that one side was missing the anti rattle clip which I didn't notice when putting the new pads in. That took care of most of the noise in my front end, along with a bit of brake jutter, but the caliper still moves a bit by hand, and I believe I can hear it when going over rough surfaces. My bracket bolts and slider bolts were all tight and to spec.

This leads me to a question; I am going to replace the slider pins, but should I also replace the brackets? Which wears faster, the slider pins or the hole sleeve they slide in?

 

[Baw51473]

This happened to my 01 about a month ago! Girlfriend was driving it, hit the breaks and Boom! Scared the crap out of her. It was missing the rear bolt and the caliper swung up and destroyed the wheel...I then bought all new bolts from Ford for about $12 each.

This has now happened to me twice. The first time the caliper broke loose and cut my rim in half. I replaced everything up front. Calipers rotors, hubs, ball joints etc etc. after about 6 months I was driving to Seattle just got off the freeway and it happened again. When I installed the new calipers, I bathed them in loctite out of fear of what had already happened, happening again, and it didn’t matter. 3 of the 4 bolts (2 Each side) were literally gone!! I cannot understand why this is happening and don’t know what to do other than pulling the wheels off monthly to check the bolts?

 

[CDW6212R]

This has now happened to me twice. The first time the caliper broke loose and cut my rim in half. I replaced everything up front. Calipers rotors, hubs, ball joints etc etc. after about 6 months I was driving to Seattle just got off the freeway and it happened again. When I installed the new calipers, I bathed them in loctite out of fear of what had already happened, happening again, and it didn’t matter. 3 of the 4 bolts (2 Each side) were literally gone!! I cannot understand why this is happening and don’t know what to do other than pulling the wheels off monthly to check the bolts?

That's a shame to hear that. Those large spindle to caliper bolts should be very tight, similar to a lugnut. The little caliper to bracket bolts are small and might take 30lbsft or so. Use red loctite on the bolts you don't want to come loose without plenty of force. I never loosen the small bolts, those hold a sealed, greased slide bolt/part, and don't need to.

I use a long 3/8" ratchet(with ratchet head, about 18" long), to take the big caliper bolts loose. Rare times it takes a 1/2" breaker bar to loosen one. I like the long ratchet to tighten them also, slowly with plenty of leverage, plus one drop of red loctite. Check the threads of the bolts, and the holes etc, of the parts, before putting them together again. Maybe there is some slight damage to a bolt or the parts. Try it again, go slow, and it should stay tight.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve never had an issue with the large bracket bolts being loose, but did have one of the slide pins disappear on my plow truck. Luckily it was the front, and only rode up on on rotor in reverse.

 

[koda2000]

I've never had a problem with either the bracket bolts or the slide pins coming loose. I always use blue Loctite on the slide pins and torque to 30-35 FP's (I think spec is 27 FP's). I've never actually torqued the bracket bolts, but I use Loctite and I pretty much tighten the crap out of them using a 1//2 ratchet and a length of pipe on the handle.

As far as re-lubing the slide pins, yes they are sealed to some extent, but I typically find them to be quite dry and I've seen some showing signs of rust, though I believe they stainless steel, so the rust residue is probably coming from the cast caliper. Those little pin seals keep dirt out and the grease in to a point, but I at least check them and usually clean and re-lube them with hi-temp synthetic brake grease. I figure the easier they can slide the better.

 

[CDW6212R]

I've never had a problem with either the bracket bolts or the slide pins coming loose. I always use blue Loctite on the slide pins and torque to 30-35 FP's (I think spec is 27 FP's). I've never actually torqued the bracket bolts, but I use Loctite and I pretty much tighten the crap out of them using a 1//2 ratchet and a length of pipe on the handle.

As far as re-lubing the slide pins, yes they are sealed to some extent, but I typically find them to be quite dry and I've seen some showing signs of rust, though I believe they stainless steel, so the rust residue is probably coming from the cast caliper. Those little pin seals keep dirt out and the grease in to a point, but I at least check them and usually clean and re-lube them with hi-temp synthetic brake grease. I figure the easier they can slide the better.

Oh yes, definitely look closely at the boots. If they aren't firmly attached, that needs to come apart, cleaned and greased etc. I often find that kind of thing off for a vehicle I've never worked on before. But those of my trucks I think I've had to open up maybe twice in total(of five 2nd gens). But the other two dozen brake jobs, I've not needed to touch those bolts. So I do suggest people leave them alone(unless something looks amiss).

 

[tillerspet]

As Bob also pointed out above, the torque required for those bolts is as much as lug nuts. Most people will not achieve that much torque at the odd angle which most wrenches will get in those bolts.

Every one needs to be very careful to gain enough leverage with a proper large enough tool, to get those bolts tight enough. They are top grade bolts, very strong. You should have a very hard time breaking them. Do not try to break them, risking stripping out the threads by over tightening bolts is not smart. If you worry about the proper actual torque, use a torque wrench, simple enough. Make sure the threads are in good shape in both parts, they should last as long as the vehicle.

I’ve managed to snap six of them. Just saying

 

[koda2000]

I’ve managed to snap six of them. Just saying

You've managed to snap 6 caliper bracket bolts or 6 caliper mounting bolts? Both should be torqued but the small caliper bolts only require around 25-30 foot pounds and the large bracket bolts are more lie 80-100 foot pounds. If you've managed to snap 6 caliper bracket bolts you must be an animal. In any event use a torque wrench.

 

[XLTrunner]

I’ve managed to snap six of them. Just saying

Impressive, indeed!

I've never really understood the problem many have had with properly tightening these bolts. I've owned Explorers (and, other Fords) since they hit the scene back in the early '90's and have done countless brake jobs on all of them. Never have I had an issue with a bolt coming loose...and, never used a torque wrench on any of them. All done by feel. Maybe the rust we have to deal with here in MN helped hold them in place?

 

[koda2000]

I don't usually break out a torque wrench for either the bracket or caliper mounting bolts, but I have many years of experience and a good feel for how tight a bolt should be depending on it's size. My point is if you find stuff you tightened is coming loose or if your breaking bolts you need to start using a torque wrench. I do like to use a drop of blue loctite on the caliper mounting bolts just for my piece of mind.

 

[CDW6212R]

I too just go by hand experience, and I do add a drop of red loctite to larger bolts, those bracket/spindle bolts for sure.

BTW, I found a trick 12v ratchet recently to pre-order, I couldn't resist it. It's a Milwaukee 3/8" impact wrench; Milwaukee 2564-20 M12 FUEL 3/8" Right Angle Impact Wrench, Tool Only

What makes it special is the 220lbft or torque, and it stops tightening in one mode at 15lbft. So you can use it to break loose these hard to reach tight bolts, and also run them in without over tightening them(if you could get a regular impact on them). I can see using this 12v ratchet to loosen and start almost all bolts you can get it onto. The head looks to be about 3" thick to the drive part, it comes in 1/2" also.

I already have the Milwaukee 12V batteries and a couple of tools, the small automatic air compressor was the first one I got. The fake batteries can be had for $10-$20 each, I have several, plans to use them for all of my Nextec tools(now obsolete(Sears)).