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Transfer Case Electrical Diagram

JohnG1771

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March 25, 2022
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City, State
Dunbar
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000, Ford, XLT
I have a 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC with a Borg 4405-15 Transfer Case with Traction on Demand. It contains 2 speed sensors. One for the output shaft located by the fill plug with 3 wires (Gray/Red, Blue, & Green). The second sensor is located by the shift motor and also has 3 wires (Gray/red, Black/Green, & Green). I am looking for the full electrical diagram that includes the GEM, TOD Relay, shift relay, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks 1 - Tag Info.JPG 97 - Both Speed Sensors.JPG
 

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try checking here with J_C's diagrams... hope this helps! :D
 












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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer 4.0L SOHC with a Borg 4405-15 Transfer Case with Traction on Demand. It contains 2 speed sensors. One for the output shaft located by the fill plug with 3 wires (Gray/Red, Blue, & Green). The second sensor is located by the shift motor and also has 3 wires (Gray/red, Black/Green, & Green). I am looking for the full electrical diagram that includes the GEM, TOD Relay, shift relay, etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks View attachment 427956 View attachment 427957
 






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Here's the '99 Workshop Manual section on pinpoint tests for No Spark Due To Crankshaft Sensor.... (relevance is that there is now a no start condition).
 

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Thanks

Thanks again. I replaced the cranks shaft position sensor last night & disconnected the battery to reset both PCM & GEM over night. Plugged the main plug back in at the transfer case before reconnecting the battery. I then turned the key on (not to the start position), pressed the brake peddle, & cycled the 4WD from Auto to High to Low & back to Auto so the GEM would find its position. The car started & the previous 2V peak to peak sinusoidal crank shaft position signal went off the chart. I thought I was good so I turned it off closed the hood & cleaned up. I then went to remove the car from my garage & it would not start. I opened the hood, checked all fuses - ok, repeated the 4WD position switch cycle & it started. I drove it out the door & noticed front wheels binding while turning in my driveway. I then flipped the toggle switch, I inserted previously to disengage the transfer case clutch, & the car shut off & would not re-start. I then pulled the fuel pump relay to recheck for spark & feedback from the new crank shaft position sensor. No spark and back to the previous 2V peak to peak sinusoidal crank shaft position signal. Rang out the crank shaft position sensor plug back to PCM pins 20 & 21 which were good. I then disconnected the battery to clear any faults in the GEM & PCM. After a half hour my cousin showed up with a good scan tool to check faults on the GEM. The car started again and he cleared about 12 different faults which did not come back. However, the car shut off after about 1 minute. It then started right back up. It did this 3 or 4 times while he monitored for faults. Then it stopped and would not start again. After running a few test sequences using his scan tool it started again and continued to run without ever shutting off again. He had me unplug the Cam Position Sensor to show me the car would continue to run since it only needs this signal to start. Thus the Cam Position Sensor was not my problem causing the car to just shut off on its own and leave no faults. He suspects the problem could still be with the new crank shaft position sensor or a relay dropping out. We did swap Relay 4 (PCM power relay) with Relay 9 (Blower motor relay) while troubleshooting but it still did not start at that time. Also while the car was running, we banged on the fuse box under the hood & wiggled the PCM connector trying to get the car to shut off . The car would not shut off. I just got back from running the car for at least a half hour to enable the PCM adaptive learning and it is running fine. I left my brown wire clutch disable switch in the off position eliminating the automatic 4WD. My cousin owns a transmission shop and said I will still have 4WD and the clutch is only used in auto. At this point, I plan on running the car as is with the automatic 4WD disabled. Finally, he said if the problem comes back that I should perhaps buy a better crank shaft position sensor. The new one is a Duralast SU2032. The original sensor was covered in oil & dirt and rings out at 380 ohms while the new one is 468 ohms. If it acts up again, I may clean up the original and re-install it. Any thoughts on what was causing my issue ? Any suggestions on what to do next if the problem returns? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I will let you know if the problem returns.


Thanks Again!!
 






Sheesh that is an odd one

Crankshaft position sensor will cause a non start or sudden shut off issue yes

Also battery/ alternator connections or fuel pump fuse/ relay issues

Hopefully it does not come back with the cps wires checked, terminals cleaned and a new sensor
 






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