Solved - Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart | Page 22 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Solved Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart

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Thanks for the reply BrooklynBay. While I haven't adjusted bands before, I'm familiar with the process as it's pretty close to adjusting valve lash on OHV engines. I don't have a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench but a 3/8" foot pound one.

However, the modulator and kickdown is a good idea. I know the modulator isn't giving me any major issues such as leaking trans fluid into the vacuum or loss of vacuum but I haven't tested it. Plus, I don't know how to identify between the two bands and maybe a shop could figure it out. I know a lot of parts were replaced but I don't know if the bands were one of them.

*EDIT* Just called the local transmission shop, they want $60-$70 for a diagnostic which would include band adjusting, modulator and kickdown check. Seems like a good price to have it done right and forget about it. Yea, I could buy a inch pound torque wrench and give it a try but it's really not that much more to have it done professionally.

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That price is probably half of the shop's hourly labor rate, since it's about a half an hour of labor. Ask them to check for trouble codes while they are already working on it. They might throw that in if you ask them.

Would the codes be different than the ones I could pull with the check engine light? If they're the same, I know I don't have any issues right now, well, maybe RABS sensor but that's another story.

Brooklyn Bay, how much would I be off if I decided to use a 3/8 drive ft/lb torque wrench instead of 1/4 in/lb? Noticed on TSB on adjusting bands it did not specify type of torque wrench, but did indicate ft/lb!? Getting a code of PO745 on 2007 Sporttrac? Solenoid block. Dropped pan and clean solenoid block that I seen on YouTube,adjusted bands, filled and check fluid no particles in pan except fine grit. Still getting a flare going into 3rd but seem getting better on band adjustment. Want to go back to replacing solenoid block than servo's! Any suggestion's! BTW this a rebuilt going on 34,000 miles!!?? Warranty expired at 18 mos got 19 out of it SMH!!
Thank you! Your shared knowledge is priceless!!

I have read and watched videos and don't seem clear.
I have a 2002 XLT 4.6 V8, Auto Tranny
I want to adjust the bands to see if it fixes some issues.

Are these the correct steps?

Loosen the lock nut
Hand Tight adjustment rod
Torque adjustment rod to 120 inch lbs / 10ft lbs.
Then Back the same adjustment rod I just torqed back 2 turns
Then torque the lock nut to 45 ft lbs to lock the adjustment rod 2 turns back from the previously torqued location.

This is correct right?

Thank you so much, My mind works a little weird so I need clarification.

Yes, you will be backing out two turns the "adjustment rod" that you just torqued, then tighten the nut without turning the adjustment rod to hold it at two turns out.

Thanks for the help. This forum is full of people that we're all lucky to have.

Question: Does it matter if the tranny is cold or hot when the adjustment is done?

Temp has no effect on the adjustment procedure, other than burns from the exhaust or tranny when hot.

broken band?

I have a flare between 2nd and 3rd in 02 Explorer. Just tried adjusting the bands. The overdrive band is right on however, I tightened the intermediate band 5 turns and still haven't reached 10 foot pounds. I'm assuming that the band has to be broke. Would that be a correct assumption?

It's either broken or it was so loose that the adjustment pawl has dropped out of place.

I dropped the pan to assure the pawl was in place. Thanks for confirming my suspicion.

Just asking a question or 2 before I try this.

I have a 92 explorer that was built 11/91. Would I have the single or double band? And if it was rebuilt 150k ago, do they put double bands back in or would they have put a single band in? Not familiar with methods of rebuilding tranny.

Also, I don't really have major issues shifting other than when it is cold, it tends to take warming up before it starts shifting on what I consider to be on time. But last few days I have noticed a difference in shifting. Hard to explain, but I have also noticed that when I drive 55, the RPMs tend to be around 2100, whereas it used to be more about 1800. Would a band adjustment be a wise choice, or does anyone have some suggestions on anything else to check?

Edit: I checked fluid and it was in cross hatched area. I do have new filter and fluid ready to go, but wondering if there may be more there than a fluid and filter change would fix.

The band adjustment won't help you with the conditions you described.

The RPM's being higher than usual could be the converter not going into lockup and the delay in shifting when cold could be a situation due to cold motor performance or it could be a sticky governor in the tranny. Without being able to drive it and experience the issue all I can do is guess.

It wouldn't be a bad idea to change the fluid and add a additive like lubegard, maybe this can help on the cold shifting. But you might want to get to the bottom of the issue with the RPM's before wasting your time, money, fluid. It might have to be removed to fix that.

How to recognize which side of new 4R44E transmission band goes to adjustment stud with band achor, and which to apply strut?


Can you adjust the reverse band on a 2006 V6 4x4 trans?

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