Solved - Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart | Page 20 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

Solved Transmission Band Adjustment Specification Chart

Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
Adjuster Locknut part number

Currently working with a 1996 Ranger XLT, 3.0L, 4x2, 4R44E

Transmission exhibits a moderate 2nd-to-3rd gear shift-flare once warm. MIL illuminated once flare started. Wanted to purchase the adjuster locknuts before adjusting the bands.

I tried searching the Transmission Parts USA website (as well as eBay) for the adjuster locknut to no avail. RockAuto does not list the part either.

Does anyone have the Ford OEM part number, or link to the adjuster locknut on TPU's or other website?

Clipped from the original article:


[Note: The following is copied from the A4LD Rebuild Diary to here for ease in finding it....]


[text deleted]


Lube the gasket on the locknut with vaseline....and carefully work in onto the bolt, not changing the bolt position....

15286Dscn4940.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Second related question - the rear transmission crossmember cannot be completely removed - as the bolt through the passenger-side bushing is frozen inside the bushing-sleeve. The bushing-sleeve spins, as it has already separated from the rubber bushing.

Is it possible to replace this bushing? I can get the crossmember out if I use a sawsall to cut the bolt.
 












I used "4R44E adjusting locknut" and got nothing, then tried just "adjusting locknut" and "locknut". Searched through all the applicable links and only found the OD/I band on their website for the 4R44E. I did later find *one* listing on eBay, but it is listed for C5/C4 applications (some of which use the same course-thread band adjuster locknut). If you look at the TPU link, they've done the same thing - list the item for C5/C4 applications, and only including a reference to the 4R44E in the subsequent item description.

As to the crossmember - the bolt is clearly rusted/siezed inside the sleeve. I can see the sleeve spinning inside the bushing, as the sleeve itself was already separated from the rubber. Tried using PB Blaster, then Kroil - same results.

I've pulled a few transmissions in my day and have seen this problem multiple times in the past - cross member bushings, frame bushings, control arm bushings, etc., all OEM bushings eventually sieze when a bolt-through-sleeve type of bushing is used. And when the bolt siezes inside a sleeve, its generally less than a 1-in-5 chance that the bolt can be worked loose.

This Ranger [had] a severe oil-leak problem, and the entire undercarrage was completely coated in a caked-on layer of oil/dirt. Generally such vehicles are the ones that come loose without problems. The driver-side came loose without issue. The rear transmission mount was already loose and the weight supported with a floor-jack, as I had already pulled the driver-side bushing-bolt.

For those reading this at a later date, be advised that the bushing is not serviceable. You cannot buy replacement bushings, and if you could, they are pressed into the crossmember. Ford only offered an entire assembly replacement - the entire cross member with pre-installed bushings. And even those OEM parts for many of the older applications are no longer available from Ford (i.e. obsolete). I did find that Dorman is making the replacement crossmember for many of those older applications, but my past experience with many Dorman products is poor at best. I generally only buy Dorman when it is the only option - including salvage yard parts.


Thank you very much for that link!

:salute:
 






Here is a trick that has worked for me on bushings of this type in the past. Drill 3 or 4 holes thru the bushing just into the bolt turn holes to the top and fill with PB blaster and let soak, then hit the end of the bolt with a heavy hammer, keep doing this every hour or so.
 












Here are the OEM part numbers I've [now] found to date:


C4 / C5 era transmissions:

  • 380850-S (course thread)

  • 389049-S (fine thread)


4R44E / 5R55E and newer:

  • E825100-S100 (course thread)
which [now] superceeds to:

  • E825100-S102
 






Anyone that has any additional part numbers and/or product links - OEM or aftermarket - please post the information for the future benefit of others here.

That's what makes threads such as this so valuable, as OEM parts become harder and harder to find.
 






I wish i had Another car so i could do this now for my self. I think it would be fun
 






Is it possible to completely remove and replace the bolt and locknut without causing any internal issues? As albi1cnobi1 said a few pages back, us east coasters have rust! I can't loosen the locknut up far enough to get the bolt to 120"/lbs, as the bolt is rusty. I guess I could get it with some work, just thought it'd be easier to back them both out and put in new. Thanks

And thanks Brooklyn for your dedication to this thread!
 
























So I adjusted the intermediate and overdrive bands. To take it for a test drive and back out of the garage, I no longer have reverse. Could that be with one of the bands? Or because I removed the shifter cable, and messed that up? This can't be going any worse.. :(
 






'03 Lincoln Aviator with 135k miles with tranny issues. 1-2 shift flare and no fifth gear at all. Struggles to go into reverse especially in cold weather. The codes are 2nd gear out of range and the solenoid B error.

So far I have replaced the servo pistons with the o-ring pistons. That didn't work so I replaced the bushings in the solenoid. That didn't help either and now I'm adjusting the bands (what I should've tried first). The original pistons didn't have any obvious cracks or anything.

Like the above poster I adjusted the band closest to the bell housing and it seemed to have made it worse. Harder to get into reverse and forward gears now, I had to rev much higher on the test drive. I haven't tried adjusting the second band yet, and I'm not sure which is which. I also removed the shifter cable and noticed it had changed positions after I made the adjustment so I had to push it back to line up the bracket holes after i made the band adjustment. Would that have affected anything?

I should also note when I dropped the pan there was a lot of metal shavings on the magnet, more than I've ever seen in a tranny before. Is that excessive band wear?
 






Welcome to this forum! These shavings aren't from the band since they are metallic. They are probably from a thrust washer or some other hard part. Your original issue might be caused by the solenoid pack or a servo bore issue. Do you know what the code numbers are? You might have moved the shift cable out of alignment when you moved it.
 






That metal debris is more likely metal from the band digging into the drum, you will have to pull this thing out and basically rebuilt it.

2014-02-18 14.08.07.jpg
 






The error code is P0775 Pressure Control Solenoid 'B' Malfunction. I'm not sure of the second code number, but it was for 2nd gear out of range.

So I readjusted both of the bands again. It seems slightly better, but I have to rev it up just to get reverse to engage, sometimes first gear as well. Still no fifth gear at all, and fourth can be slow to engage.

Mmmmm, shavings from that drum or other piece would make sense. It's starting to look like it I might be a rebuild. I should take a look at the solenoid pack again though.
 









Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





The intermediate is your front band ,then just about five or so inch,s is your next band the book calls for ten pounds of torque or one hundred twenty inch,s twelve inches in a pound of torque, but anyway back of around two full revolutions , if this doesn't work adjust about a quarter of a turn either way then drive , it will let you know if you are getting close, if you can find a quarter inch torque ratchet, it will bring better results
 






Back
Top