• Register Today It's free!

Transmission fitting under radiator cap has slight leak...can I use plumber's tape?

84FLH

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 14, 2016
Messages
196
Points
28
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Mercury Mountaineer
Hey everyone. Another week. Another Mounty problem.

The big nut in the picture has a very slight weep of coolant, where nut meets radiator. The weeping is at one, and only one, point of the six flats; the point that's at 8 o'clock in the picture.

This is a replacement radiator about 8 years old. Don't know the brand.

This past Saturday I decided to try tightening the big nut. I loosened the small compression fitting behind the nut and tightened the nut about 1/8th of a turn. During that slight movement I thought I detected resistance increasing, so I stopped tightening. Then I retightened the small compression fitting nut.

I used a paint marker to denote new position of the big nut. Then I taped paper under the nut to see if the weeping was fixed or not. Turns out the weeping is much, much less but not 100% gone.

Here's my questions:

- Can I unscrew the big nut from the radiator and use plumber's tape or sealant to stop the weeping?

- Is there an O-ring at the inside end of the big nut ... and if so, what's the chance it'll drop inside the plastic tank before I get it out of the tank?


This all started about a month ago when I'd driven one mile from work on the way home and stopped at a red light. I happened to notice "Check Gauge" was on. Right next to that idiot light my temp gauge was pinned to HOT! As I looked at the gauge in amazement it dropped right back down to the middle where it always is. I pulled over and found the overflow tank almost overflowing with dirty dark brown fluid. I had no coolant or turkey baster with me but since the gauge was reading ok I drove the 20 miles home. Gauge stayed in the middle.

On inspection I found the overflow tank full of brown sludge and brown stuff that looked like ground black pepper. It had to be K-Seal I'd used to patch the Mercury radiator in 2017 for a few months before I decided to have a new radiator installed (also 2017). So now, 8 years later, the K-Seal must've made the t-stat stick closed for a minute or two, then the engine puked all the 8 year old K-Seal coolant into the radiator, where the by now boiling K-Seal coolant went into the overflow tank.

I removed the overflow tank and thoroughly cleaned every spec of K-Seal out. I flushed the overflow hose and ensured air blew through it by mouth just fine. Installed new aftermarket t-stat and new Motorcraft radiator cap (couldn't find Motorcraft t-stat with the bleed hole). Added new coolant and .... kept finding the overflow tank from halfway to 3/4's full all the time. Coolant in radiator was always about 3-4" below radiator fill hole. Rechecked overflow tank and hose and found them both clear of obstructions.

So then I parked on extreme hill with nose up and ran engine with funnel on radiator (well, mostly on radiator) to purge air. Put more coolant in. Still, the OF tank was always half to 3/4 full. I've been working a lot of OT and didn't have time or desire to mess with the Monty. So I kept a full jug of coolant, a turkey baster, and two empty coolant jugs in the truck.

Then one day I noticed some very, very tiny bubbles at that radiator fitting big nut. They were only coming from one of the points of the nut. Then it hit me. That leak was preventing the system from pressurizing. The lower system pressure also lowered coolant boiling point. Boiling or almost boiling coolant was rushing into the radiator and gushing through the OF tube to the OF tank.

So last Saturday I tightened the big nut. After my 40 mile round trip to church the next day, I found some seepage at the big nut. So I tightened it a little more, and put the paint mark and paper on radiator as noted above. Today (Monday) I still found some seepage under the big nut. So before I throw in the towel and bring to a shop I'd like to try plumber's tape or sealant. I just don't know what's behind the big nut!

Transmission fitting into radiator, directly under radiator cap.jpg
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I haven’t taken one of those apart, but it is essentially a liquid to liquid heat exchanger between the tranny fluid and the coolant.

Don’t use teflon tape.

If a gasket isn’t specified, I’d use a sealant rated for the fluid. The appropriate RTV, perhaps.

I’d imagine there is a gasket or o-ring in there…system is rated to 16psi I believe.
 












C420, Turdle, thanks. Both you guys have always had good and correct answers for me. I think I'll take this to the shop but I'd like to ask you Turdle, why it can't be fixed but must have a new radiator? I'm just trying to learn here for my own knowledge base.
 






That nut is the transmission cooler. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE COOLANT COMING FROM THAT NUT. Check the transmission dipstick if there is coolant there. coolant could be making its way into your transmission.

I believe my original radiator has a small amount of teflon tape around that nut, it does stop the leakage, but it shouldn't need it.
 






At this point, likely can’t hurt to take it apart and see
 






There are rubber seals, but it is so long ago that i can't remeber on which side they were, think inside.
The transmission oil cooler inside the radiator will last much longer as the radiator,
so water should not get into the transmission. But who knowns...
oelkuehler.jpg

why it can't be fixed but must have a new radiator?
The transmission cooler is installed first, then the plastic radiator part is pressure-grouted to the aluminium part.
Ölanschluesse - Kopie.jpg


I would say it's not impossible to fix the coolant leak with some heat resistance material, but sooner or later the radiator will leak
at another position.
Changing the radiator is not a big deal, not really necessarily to bring it to a shop.
 












Radiators.com or the like has good prices and quick shipping

You should only have atf leaking at that fitting not coolant

If it’s coolant you likely need a new radiator
If it’s atf you likely need a new o ring
 












Wolliman,

Thanks. That picture is exactly what I was hoping to find. It shows thin rubber gaskets are inside the plastic tank. Those are to keep the coolant from weeping past the big nut.

Last night I noticed ATF seepage on the compression fitting threads. I discovered I hadn't fully snugged the compression fitting from when I tightened the big nut on Sunday, so I snugged it up last night. Pretty snug but not cranking on it.

After my 22 mile ride to work this morning I discovered ATF seepage was back. I cleaned it up and again found seepage after my ride home this afternoon. Seepage wasn't dripping off the threads when I popped the hood, but I found a thin film of ATF about 2" diameter on the plastic tank; maybe fan blown. ATF level on arrival home this afternoon was at the full mark on dipstick.

This is daily and I'm tired of working on it. I have a garage appointment for Aug 11 (yikes that's far off).

Is there any type of sealer I could put on the compression fitting thread in the meantime?

Thanks
 






Radiators.com or the like has good prices and quick shipping

You should only have atf leaking at that fitting not coolant

If it’s coolant you likely need a new radiator
If it’s atf you likely need a new o ring
Hiya Fortune.

How's the weather your way? Darn hot and humid in New England.

I likely need new radiator as coolant is indeed weeping past the big nut. I think those thin rubber, disc shaped gaskets in Wolliman's top picture are supposed to prevent coolant from seeping past the big nut.

I now have ATF seeping at the compression fitting. Anything I can do to stop it?

Thanks.

I'll be passing through in 12 to 24 months.....
 






UPDATE. 7/29. 7:47 pm EST. Found why ATF seeping. May've fixed it.

I removed the upper trans line from the Big Nut on radiator, just under radiator cap. Surprised to see a flare fitting and no compression fitting.

I used a mirror to look inside the Big Nut. I found an O-ring seated in a groove. The O-ring was imprinted/dented off-center from the central tube. That's from last night (Monday) when I tightened the trans line nut. I tried using almost every dental pic from my set to remove the O-ring and reverse it, but I couldn't for two reasons. First, the O-ring is seated deeply in it's groove and I needed to put the pics straight into the Big Nut but couldn't because the power steering fluid container was in the way. The pics kept going in at an angle and I could never grasp the O-ring. Second it was 92 degrees out and I was in direct sunlight, so the ps fluid jug stayed in place.

I cleaned everything with Zero Tri, placed the flared tube into the Big Nut, then wiggled the trans line nut into the Big Nut and tightened the trans line nut. Then went for 1 mile test ride. Pic shows trans fluid leaked pretty good.

I removed and reseated the trans line and went for a 2nd ride, about 2 miles. Two threads of the trans line nut were damp. So for the third time I removed and reseated the trans line and nut. This time I did it the right way:

I slid the trans line all the way to the rear of the trans line nut, then holding it there, I slipped the smooth, non-threaded part of the trans line nut into the Big Nut fitting on the radiator....

Then I hand spun the trans line nut and grabbed a thread or two, all the while holding the trans line to the rear of the nut....

Once I grabbed a thread or two with the trans line nut, I then gently pushed the trans line in until it stopped....

I wiggled the trans line and found virtually no wiggle....

I held the trans line with one hand and tightened the trans line nut with my other hand until it stopped, then by wrench snug; a good snug but not tight.


Drove 1 mile home. Found trans line nut threads dry. That's the last pic here. I realize 1 mile is not enough to prove the line won't leak, but after three hours of messin' an' sweatin' around, I'd had enough.

So the secret for 2000 Mountaineer trans line-to-radiator is to slip the non-threaded portion of the trans line nut into the radiator fitting first, spin it on a thread or three, then push (gently) the trans line in until it stops. Hold the line by hand and hand tighten the trans line nut. Then snug tighten with wrench.

Upper trans line flared, pic 2 of 2, resized.jpg


Dented, imprinted O-ring inside radiator fitting, resized.jpg


After first repair and test ride, resized.jpg


After 3rd repair and test ride, resized.jpg
 






Hey everyone. Another week. Another Mounty problem.

The big nut in the picture has a very slight weep of coolant, where nut meets radiator. The weeping is at one, and only one, point of the six flats; the point that's at 8 o'clock in the picture.

This is a replacement radiator about 8 years old. Don't know the brand.

This past Saturday I decided to try tightening the big nut. I loosened the small compression fitting behind the nut and tightened the nut about 1/8th of a turn. During that slight movement I thought I detected resistance increasing, so I stopped tightening. Then I retightened the small compression fitting nut.

I used a paint marker to denote new position of the big nut. Then I taped paper under the nut to see if the weeping was fixed or not. Turns out the weeping is much, much less but not 100% gone.

Here's my questions:

- Can I unscrew the big nut from the radiator and use plumber's tape or sealant to stop the weeping?

- Is there an O-ring at the inside end of the big nut ... and if so, what's the chance it'll drop inside the plastic tank before I get it out of the tank?


This all started about a month ago when I'd driven one mile from work on the way home and stopped at a red light. I happened to notice "Check Gauge" was on. Right next to that idiot light my temp gauge was pinned to HOT! As I looked at the gauge in amazement it dropped right back down to the middle where it always is. I pulled over and found the overflow tank almost overflowing with dirty dark brown fluid. I had no coolant or turkey baster with me but since the gauge was reading ok I drove the 20 miles home. Gauge stayed in the middle.

On inspection I found the overflow tank full of brown sludge and brown stuff that looked like ground black pepper. It had to be K-Seal I'd used to patch the Mercury radiator in 2017 for a few months before I decided to have a new radiator installed (also 2017). So now, 8 years later, the K-Seal must've made the t-stat stick closed for a minute or two, then the engine puked all the 8 year old K-Seal coolant into the radiator, where the by now boiling K-Seal coolant went into the overflow tank.

I removed the overflow tank and thoroughly cleaned every spec of K-Seal out. I flushed the overflow hose and ensured air blew through it by mouth just fine. Installed new aftermarket t-stat and new Motorcraft radiator cap (couldn't find Motorcraft t-stat with the bleed hole). Added new coolant and .... kept finding the overflow tank from halfway to 3/4's full all the time. Coolant in radiator was always about 3-4" below radiator fill hole. Rechecked overflow tank and hose and found them both clear of obstructions.

So then I parked on extreme hill with nose up and ran engine with funnel on radiator (well, mostly on radiator) to purge air. Put more coolant in. Still, the OF tank was always half to 3/4 full. I've been working a lot of OT and didn't have time or desire to mess with the Monty. So I kept a full jug of coolant, a turkey baster, and two empty coolant jugs in the truck.

Then one day I noticed some very, very tiny bubbles at that radiator fitting big nut. They were only coming from one of the points of the nut. Then it hit me. That leak was preventing the system from pressurizing. The lower system pressure also lowered coolant boiling point. Boiling or almost boiling coolant was rushing into the radiator and gushing through the OF tube to the OF tank.

So last Saturday I tightened the big nut. After my 40 mile round trip to church the next day, I found some seepage at the big nut. So I tightened it a little more, and put the paint mark and paper on radiator as noted above. Today (Monday) I still found some seepage under the big nut. So before I throw in the towel and bring to a shop I'd like to try plumber's tape or sealant. I just don't know what's behind the big nut!

View attachment 466280
Replace the radiator. The entire cooling system, which includes heater, must be flushed. When you do it, run the engine, when fully warm add cooling system cleaner. Run the engine for 2 times the recommended time. Drain the coolant, Refill and run the engine for 20 minutes with the heater on full hot for 20 minutes. Repeat. After twice rinsing the coolant system add coolant according to manufacturer instruction. Everyone is going to have a different opinion about this process. Caution leads to longevity. :cool:
 






Is it 1" or 2.24 " core thickness?
Probably 1", but it doesn't matter. Either fits because the mounts and brackets cradle where the tank and core come together, and that width is the same regardless of core thickness.
 












Featured Content

Back
Top