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Tuning my 347 with rear mount turbo




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Cats? <cough> Rear o2's? :shifty_ey

Range is 8 to 16 I believe. Innovate LC-1
The wideband o2 is located on the drivers side right beside the narrow band 02.

The wideband used to work fine. This is a new issue.
Minor delay while I wait for an LC-2. One beautiful thing about the LC-2 is that it comes with an 8ft sensor extension.
 






Lc2

Did you order the LC2 already?
I was wondering about them.
I have an issue with the LC1, when you turn the key off and back on sometimes(like when programming PCM) it gives an error code upon restart. You have to shut it off and wait about 10 seconds and then start it up and it is usually fine.
That drive me nuts sometimes, I just want to punch it. lol.

Have you had a similar experience with your LC1?

If the LC2 doesn't have the above problem I may upgrade. There is a newer gauge with two displays for two sensors also, very cool.
 






I ordered the LC-2 yesterday.
It should be here next monday.

I figured its not worth continually fighting with. It would be nice if the wideband sensor connector was small enough that I could fish it thru a grommet in my firewall and get the control unit in the engine bay. Not sure if that will be possible though.

It's going to be a big job pulling my old one out. The LC-2 doesn't have the push button for calibrating and the led is built in to the control unit. Currently, my LC-1 is wired thru yo my center console. My radio, center console, and drivers knee plate will be coming apart. That will teach me for doing a nice built in installation.

I don't remember having the restart error you are describing. The LC-1's do seem a bit finicky. Theres quite a few people that seem to complain about them on-line.
 






what about putting it under the seat like we did with mine? i fished it threw a grommet in the floor then it goes over top of the trans, and into what was the rear 02 bung. yours would be closer because if i remember its on the drivers side behind the factory 02 sensor correct?
 






We could, I just can't remember ow we did that. Did the drivers seat come out, or just the centre console?
 






I think we pulled the seat for that . Take a peek under the truck and see if you have any grommets under where the driver seat is before we go any further there should be either a blank one or one with a harness that won't go anywhere for your truck seems it was a AWD
 






Check out how small the control unit is?

I was able to push the extension cable thru a grommet that is just underneath my brake booster. This makes me happy as now the control unit will be in the cab of the truck. Much better design. On Saturday I'll finish wiring it.
 

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Wires

The extra length wire to the O2 sensor is definitely a design improvement.

One of the other things I didn't like on the LC1 was how small the wires were that get attached to the firewire jack that gets inputted to the X3/X4.
Are those wires still really small on the LC2?
 






They are about the same.
Maybe its just the firewire cable I have, but those are the really small gauge ones.
I do find it surprising that the recommended amperage is about 5 amps and the gauge of wire isn't very big.
I'm not sure what the actual draw is, but it does seem odd to me.
 












wait a min....did you order a completely new wideban?

Correct.
I needed this problem to go away. I didn't think another sensor was going to fix my problem. Besides, with the new design, I felt its a much better long term solution.
 






Today, I have a working wideband.
The control unit sits nicely behind the panel at my foot when driving (drivers kick panel?).
I did have to re-program analog 2 on the LC-2 as it differs from the LC-1 in that the analog 2 is now factory set as a narrow band. No big deal, just something to note. The same equation is used as the LC-1 in livelink, again easy.
I'm sure I will be able to go for a wot run before the big game. I'm hoping for a great game, but have a feeling that Carolina is going to make for a very one sided game. I hope I'm wrong.

The green line shows the wideband doing what its supposed to do.
 

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Lc2

Did you have to use a serial jack to program the LC2 or did it have an adaptor for serial to usb?

Can't wait to see the datalog!
 






Did you have to use a serial jack to program the LC2 or did it have an adaptor for serial to usb?

Can't wait to see the datalog!

The old laptop I have still has a serial jack. There is a special serial cable that comes with the lc-2 that has a non-standard end on it. Mental note..... don't loose the cable.
 






I made some good progress. I'm still seeing more timing that I am commanding in the borderline spark table. I'm not hearing any detonation, and at the top end I'm down to 13.75 degree's. Still at 3500rpm and 2 lbs boost I'm seeing 19 degrees. Not horrible, but I better learn my spark tables.

I think I have closed loop, and open loop pretty much nailed. I started by targeting an a/f of 12 as I thought it would be easier for tuning, but 4pointslow poopoo'd me. 11.6 period. So, a quick adjustment and today I wen't for another burn. I'm very close on the maf transfer and a/f now.

I'll have a look at my spark tables, and lower timing a bit more so I can add boost without stressing myself (and even worse, possibly my motor).
 






I'm not finding where the spark is being added.
So, I cheated. Max allowed spark table to the rescue.
 

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Maybe Spark adder based on EGR was adding spark?
Obviously when I re-scaled to the higher load of 1.2 I missed this. I'm guessing it was adding spark at a load of .6 which is now actually a high acceleration load.
Seeing this, I'll have to spend some time on the egr side of things. I really only want to see it working under light load conditions.

Also whats the Octane Plug spark modifier? Craziness.
 

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Timing

Edit post 37 and add the Borderline table you were using so we can see both.
Good find on the Spark adder for egr.

An octane plug was a jumper with a small plastic connector, sticking out of the wire harness somewhere.
You would remove the plug if the vehicle was having detonation problems from the gas not having the right octane rating where you lived. It was also used on older vehicles when carbon build up cause a slight raise in compression bringing with it slight detonation. These were used on vehicles that did not have adjustable timing.

Later the thing went from a plug to a switch in the tune that a Factory scan tool could access.
 



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Thanks for the description of the Octane plug. I had no clue what was going on there.
Also, post 37 edited.
I'll try to get another wot run tonight with boost upped a bit more.
 






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