V8 Waterpump stud broke off into timing cover

[CDW6212R]

I always shorten those tiny "L" hoses, they are always too long.

BTW, did you notice if the timing chain had true rollers, or did they have seams? I bought a Cloyes for my first Cleveland in 1980, and it was supposed to be a true roller. It was not, and I have never bought any of their products since. The rollers are supposed to be seamless, from a solid tube stock. That's the key feature of a roller chain. Get it running now.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

So, what's the advantage to that timing set you replaced it with?

Uhhh... Jtsmith said to use it!

The roller designer should provide a little less friction and therefore reduce heat and increase tq/hp. It was also cheaper.

 

[rizzjc]

I just picked mine up at the local parts store, and went with it.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

The rollers are supposed to be seamless, from a solid tube stock. That's the key feature of a roller chain. Get it running now.

I didn't examine the chain too close, but I did not see any obvious seems. I didn't see your post before I buttoned up the cover.

Good news, she's back up and running! I finished the project last night, I had to shorten a few hoses but no issues on restart. I'll be changing my filter and oil again after a few hundred miles to make sure there are no issues.

Question: who makes an oil filter with the lowest (numerically) micron rating/best filtration? I normally use the Motorcraft FL820s filters...

I'll be doing a full writeup on changing the waterpump and timing chain on a V8, watch for it in the next few days.

 

[hunterdan]

I like the purolator Pure One filters myself.

 

[CDW6212R]

Aaron, I have over 9,000 miles and five months on my Amsoil and filter in my 99. The oil is still rather transparent, and shows to be virtually full on the dipstick. I am hopeful for my severe duty work truck to reach 15,000 miles for my oil/filter changes. The Amsoil filter is capable of going 25,000 miles, part of why it costs about $11.

 

[rizzjc]

Question: who makes an oil filter with the lowest (numerically) micron rating/best filtration? I normally use the Motorcraft FL820s filters...
.

Pure One, Mobil1, and Amsoil filters are all supposed to be pretty good.

 

[rizzjc]

Aaron, I have over 9,000 miles and five months on my Amsoil and filter in my 99. The oil is still rather transparent, and shows to be virtually full on the dipstick. I am hopeful for my severe duty work truck to reach 15,000 miles for my oil/filter changes. The Amsoil filter is capable of going 25,000 miles, part of why it costs about $11.

I've used the Amsoil filters from about 10k miles on the truck, changing it every 10k-15k miles. I've got over 150k on the truck now. I just lose a quart (to some phantom location) every 5k miles or so.

 

[CDW6212R]

I hope more people get into the bypass filtering systems. For the cost of any oil these days, the savings can be good for you and the environment. For most people they can go a year before changing oil/filter. At $50 per year that beats doing a $15 to $20 oil/filter job a few times per year.

 

[Redneck0907]

Mysterious Oil Loss??

I've used the Amsoil filters from about 10k miles on the truck, changing it every 10k-15k miles. I've got over 150k on the truck now. I just lose a quart (to some phantom location) every 5k miles or so.

Hey i saw your post, and figured suggesting this.. seems to be rather common with the x's... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148135&pp=20

 

[rizzjc]

Hey i saw your post, and figured suggesting this.. seems to be rather common with the x's... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148135&pp=20

Not sure I follow. You think that I might be blowing it all out through the PCV valve? What would cause that?

 

[Cobraguy]

That would be "blow by" going out the PCV valve and it's from the ring seal going away. When you see that, you can bet the rings are bad enough that you burn oil. That may be where it's going. I've seen PCV valves suck oil that were in a rocker cover and the baffling was removed. Oil would spray directly on the valve from a pushrod/rocker arm. But the 5.0 PCV is safe from that. If you are getting blow by, I'm betting it's going past the rings. It can also go past the intake valves if your stem seals are bad.

 

[rizzjc]

That would be "blow by" going out the PCV valve and it's from the ring seal going away. When you see that, you can bet the rings are bad enough that you burn oil. That may be where it's going. I've seen PCV valves suck oil that were in a rocker cover and the baffling was removed. Oil would spray directly on the valve from a pushrod/rocker arm. But the 5.0 PCV is safe from that. If you are getting blow by, I'm betting it's going past the rings. It can also go past the intake valves if your stem seals are bad.

I'm betting that you're right. Which reminds me .... I better go outside and add a quart!

 

[bronchole]

Some photo updates:

Timing chains compared. Stock on Left, Cloyes Double Roller on right:

New chain installed:

It was very easy to get the old one off, I used a standard gear puller on the cam gear, and the crank gear slid off. Crank bolt was then removed by putting vice grips on the old chain.

Always a snag! I struggled to get the little hose between the water pump and the oil cooler to fit without it kinking halfway closed, before I realized that the aftermarket replacement had way too much bend in it.

The photo shows:
Top: Original hose section
2nd Down: Random heater hose from Autozone, PN "397" or "14-2565-2 M 61326" that is the correct diameter and has the correct bend in it. Cut to fit!
3rd Down: Napa replacement hose, too much bend
Bottom: Rock Auto replacement hose, too much bend, but a good 1" longer (1/2" on each side) than the Napa part.

Not all "replacement" parts are created equal!

Sorry for reviving an old thread but I am in the same situation (broken bolt in the timing cover). This was the best thread I found when looking to see if there was something I didn't try. I tried heat, penatrating oil, vibration, impact..... Its soaking now and I will spray some more on in the morning but I anticipate I will be getting the dremel out tomorow night and will need to replace the timing cover.

Anyone got one laying around they are willing to part with cheap?

 

[Turdle]

Sorry for reviving an old thread but I am in the same situation (broken bolt in the timing cover). This was the best thread I found when looking to see if there was something I didn't try. I tried heat, penatrating oil, vibration, impact..... Its soaking now and I will spray some more on in the morning but I anticipate I will be getting the dremel out tomorow night and will need to replace the timing cover.

Anyone got one laying around they are willing to part with cheap?

Look on ebay, search for "explorer v8 timing cover". You should find one for a reasonable price.

Right now there is a brand new one listed for 58.00 shipped.

 

[Cobraguy]

Dorman has one. 635-106. The price has really gone up on it lately. It's just over $100 now...which is a freakin' steal compared to Ford OE. Just be careful...there are other Chinese pieces out there that are real junk. Porous, bad machining, etc. I think the Dorman piece is decent, but just be sure and check it out closely.