valve cover

[2stroke]

I just have a few quick questions about the valve covers. I recently tried to put some gaskets in mine, as they were leaking. The passenger side one was in pretty good condition, I painted it, and it doesn't leak a drop. The drivers side, however, was in bad shape. Rust had eaten through a good portion of the lip, and it had surface rust over most of it. I took a wire wheel to it, and painted it anyway. The problem is, it did not seal. If anything, it leaks worse now. The only good valve cover I found in a junk yard (a very nice vehicle I must say, and I have a few parts from it already) they want $25 for. That seems a little steep for an old steel cover, and that's pulling it myself. I was wondering if there is anywhere I can get them cheaper, although I doubt there is. Even if its a brand new one for slightly more. The next option is an ebay one for close to $70. I'm really surprised there is absolutely ZERO aftermarket for this engine. I could not find a single aluminum valve cover out there.

The other thing I want to know is if I can get the lower intake off without taking both valve covers off. I would rather not take the passenger side cover off, as it has a perfect seal right now.

 

[Turdle]

Honestly I think the 25.00 cover is the cheapest, quickest option. Shipping one would be half that-no?

I believe the valve covers can stay in place with lower intake removed. Be sure to replace the injector o rings ( 2 on each injector) while you are in there.

You should be able to find an intake gasket set which includes the valve cover gaskets, this will help with cost.

 

[Anime]

$25 may seem high but plenty of places charge 50% of new dealer price for used parts, no matter what the age of the vehicle is or the condition of the part.

There's "zero aftermarket" for stuff like fancy valve covers for almost all modern engines. Only a handful of popular performance motors get fancy stuff like carbon fiber valve covers since most are aluminum from the factory. The chrome and aluminum motors for V8's are also because of the numbers - there are lots of 302's and 350's and such.

There are aftermarket valve covers for the 4.0L OHV though. They are just the same exact style as the factory covers.

You can probably find a salvage yard that sells for slighty less, or get one from someone on here parting out, but shipping might make it close to that $25.

Best bet might be to try and haggle with the salvage yard, see if they'll go down to $15 or $20.

Be sure you're using good valve cover gaskets like the Fel-Pro Permadry or Victor Reinz, the cork ones don't seal very well and don't last even if you get them to seal. Same with the lower intake gasket, use the metal gasket with rubber seals, not the cardboard ones.

 

[natenkiki2004]

You have to remove the valve cover in order to remove/install the lower intake manifold. The valve cover seals on 85% head and 15% lower intake.

These two pictures should explain it, this is the 4.0 OHV with the LIM removed:

This is another OHV with similar design, you can see the dissimilar metal color where the cast head and aluminum LIM meet. These two come together to form a flat surface for the valve cover:

 

[2stroke]

You are right, I forgot that the valve cover is actually sealed on it. I should have remembered, I just did the valve cover gaskets a couple weeks ago. All well, I don't buy made valve cover gaskets. I use RTV on everything I can, and I have taken a liking to ultra grey for everything if anyone was wondering. I already have the lower intake gaskets, upper intake gaskets, and fuel injector o rings. Most of the fuel injector o rings are just a few months old. Funny thing, I did it wrong the first time and had to take it all apart in a lake access parking lot (I had been fishing that day). I ended up finding a few original o rings I dropped and using those. All three parts are are on sale right now at rock auto, and since I needed a backup light switch, I figured why not. Funny they don't sell valve covers. The only new ones I found are from Ford, and I didn't even ask for the price. The last time I asked about buying from ford was an oil dipstick tube, which is nothing but a tube with a tab, they said $95. I felt like throwing my old one right through the dealers window. Anyway, thanks for the help.

 

[vq5speed]

$25.00 is high for a used valve cover you pull yourself. They get $10.49 for one out here at my PickN Pull. Check around with another yard maybe find a pair for $25 bucks

 

[Anime]

Using RTV for valve cover gaskets isn't really a good idea. It can work in a pinch but probably isn't worth the hassle of scraping off RTV from the head and valve cover every time, plus the risk of a chunk of it getting into the engine oil and/or cooling system, either from a chunk that cured inside the cover when it was installed, or from a chunk that got in there when it was being scraped off.

 

[2stroke]

Using RTV for valve cover gaskets isn't really a good idea. It can work in a pinch but probably isn't worth the hassle of scraping off RTV from the head and valve cover every time, plus the risk of a chunk of it getting into the engine oil and/or cooling system, either from a chunk that cured inside the cover when it was installed, or from a chunk that got in there when it was being scraped off.

I've been doing it my whole life, never had a problem. As long as the surfaces are clean, I've never had one leak with RTV. Unless you are careless, there is no way a chunk is going to fall into the engine oil. I use RTV on oil pans too.

I wonder if the guy I called thought I wanted both covers for $25? I'll call some other places tomorrow, but that truck in the yard I go to is MINT. I have no idea where it is from, but its not this state. I won't find a better valve cover in a junk yard. I plan haggling, as I was expecting $10-$15.

 

[vq5speed]

Permatex the red or blue stuff is what I use for many years. I always seal gasket to valve cover only, This way when I need to remove covers off and back on later for any reason gasket comes off clean with the covers.

 

[Anime]

I can see using RTV on oil and transmission pans, lots of vehicles even come that way from the factory. But valve covers? Not when quality gaskets are relatively inexpensive and you can re-use them a few times, so popping off a cover to check something isn't as much of a hassle as un-sticking a new RTV seal.

It's your ride and you have to do the work on it, so do whatever floats your boat, I just stick to using RTV where it says to, on the lower intake, differentials, etc. That and it's great for sealing body seams.

If the truck is that nice and you can get both covers for $25, get 'em both and use 'em both, and use your other used one as a spare or hang onto it for when someone else may need one.

 

[vq5speed]

A valve cover is different then an oil pan to you? They both keep the motor oil in the motor just ones on top of the motor and the other is on the bottom. I'm not following why would you need to unstick a silicone seal. That is why I only seal my valve cover gaskets to the cover only so the covers come off easily when you remove the covers I just always done it this way. Must of been from my early days of owning SBC needing to pull my covers to adjust my valves. Yep the High temp Permatex I've always used for all gasket sealing on my motors, Never had a problem with it ever

 

[natenkiki2004]

I used Permatex Black on my valve covers when I yanked the engine. I didn't buy gaskets since I didn't think I'd have to remove valve covers but having them gone sure makes it easier to get at the bellhousing bolts. I plan on getting gaskets later for something to 'squish' however, the previous owner put gaskets on and they were a real pain to get off, they were almost baked on. Silicone/RTV comes off pretty easy though, even when it's tough, it still clings together unlike a gasket that can leave tiny fibers and REALLY mess up the oil passageways. When I take them off again, I'll use gaskets but both sides will be coated with RTV.

 

[Anime]

Sometimes the silicone seal tears or comes off in pieces, then you're stuck scraping it off, and that's where you run the risk of a chunk getting into the engine. It may just go down an oil or coolant hole before you notice it.

Sometimes it just peels off nice and you get a clean surface, but I've had mixed results.

It's just easier to use gaskets where they make a good one for the application.

If you've ever rebuilt an engine or just done top end work, sometimes you need to pull the valve covers off. This can be tough to do with some RTV that is really strong after it cures and until it's been heated and cooled a bunch so it's hard enough to tear off.

I suppose RTV makes a good cheap seal for an engine instead of spending $$$ on gaskets at the parts store, but if you can get the high end gasket sets for less than what a tube of RTV costs, I think they are definitely a better choice, at least in terms of safety and removal. Sealing wise, as long as it doesn't leak, that's about all you can ask for.

 

[vq5speed]

Oh I think you mis-understand what I said. I don't only use RTV to make a gasket. I use a actual gasket like Felpro but I seal the gasket to the valve cover using RTV silicone.
I've never just used only RTV to form a gasket. I use it to glue the gaskets to the surface. Nobody else does this?

 

[2stroke]

I didn't realize I would cause such a stir. I never use RTV with a gasket. If I buy a gasket, I put on a gasket. Its what I've always been taught, and it hasn't failed me. The beauty of RTV for me is I can keep a tube on hand, and I am ready for 80% of the gaskets on the engine. I also have a roll of paper gasket maker for things like the throttle body, IAC, etc. I do this for the convenience that I always have what I need. Sure you have to wait a day for it to cure, but I am done before people get back from the parts store, if they even have them in stock.

 

[vq5speed]

No stir. I think Anime thought I was forming a complete gasket with just RTV silicone. No I only use a very thin film to attach the gasket to the covers to hold it in place. So when I need to pull the covers the gasket is attached to the covers. I've always done this with valve covers especially with pan gaskets where there are multiple bolt holes that need to line up. Lots of times those gaskets are warpy and don't stay lined up when your trying to push the bolts through. I like to put a thin layer of RTV to hold the gasket in place and I usually just need it on one side.

 

[Anime]

I used to use RTV with gaskets, even the rubber ones, but stopped doing that after talking with manufacturers and engineers. If it works for you, great, but sometimes that can cause a leak if the silicone keeps the material on the gasket from sealing.

For me personally, I just prefer using gaskets for stuff like valve covers since I usually stock up when I find 'em super cheap.

I'm sure RTV is better than using the cheap cork gaskets.

 

[natenkiki2004]

To throw another 2 cents in;
Since I used RTV on the valve covers after putting my engine back in, it's been about 700 miles and there is a little bit of seepage in some spots. Truth be told, I bought a tube of Permatex Black and used some on the oil pan, just for secondary measure. The leftover was what I used on the valve covers, probably not enough.

 

[2stroke]

In the past, I've never had a valve cover leak with RTV. I used to use ultra black, but have switched to ultra grey for simplicity. All you do is put it on, and torque it down. I got my lower intake gaskets in, and the engine back together. It was a nice, no-surprises day. I got the new valve cover plus some small extra stuff for $20. I just hope I didn't get too much water in the oil. I only have a couple thousand miles on this oil, and it would screw up my system of always changing oil at a 5 or a 0.

 

[2stroke]

Started up the truck today, and its probably has the smoothest start of any vehicle we have. I cleaned all the injectors really well, so I think that had a big effect. The lower intake gasket seems to have sealed well, no air leaks anywhere, and the valve covers sealed perfect with only RTV. Time to go convert my gauge to a real oil pressure gauge.