Water pump bolts

[Sploder98]

Saw some posts from a few years ago concerning broken water pump stud bolts. I am going through this currently with my 98 EB 5.0. Current mileage is 233,486 and I snapped off two of the studs removing the water pump. Now...here's what i did to remove those broken studs. A friend brought his torch over and I borrowed some snap-on bolt extractors from a mechanic friend. I also used some good penetrating oil. The studs were broken off even with the water pump housing so once the pump was off, there was about 3/4 " exposed. I douched it with penetrating oil, heated it up, banged on it with a ball pean, repeat.... For about an hour. It's almost guaranteed that the threads going into the block are not corroded. It's where the stud goes through the timing chain case where it's stuck. Repetitive heating & beating & oiling will free it from that aluminum case. It took me around an hour for each stud. Be patient and don't be premature or you'll break it off again.

Now.... The issue I'm having now is finding replacement studs that fit. I purchased two identical stud kits from two different parts stores and neither of them have what I need. I'm headed to the hardware stores in the morning to find some grade 8 bolts so I can finish the job.

 

[rb142]

Yeah, that pretty well sums it up. If you have an air hammer, that can greatly speed up the hammering/vibrating part. If your hardware stores are as useless as the ones here, you might try looking for something like a Fastenal.

 

[koda2000]

Yep. The water pump bolts are the worst thing about the Ford 5.0L engine. I can't think of anything else that causes problems, other than the timing cover gasket leaking coolant on the passenger side/front of the engine (K-Seal is the easiest fix for that) and rusted/busted spark plugs if you live in the rust belt. If you do live in the rust belt, I suggest you change your spark plugs more often than waiting 100,000 miles and be sure to use nickle plated plugs and always use anti-seize on the threads.

 

[Turdle]

A couple of the "studs" are used to secure the plastic wiring harness clips, keeping the harness out of the belt and pulleys. You might be able to work around the need for a stud using other methods of securing the harness. Possibly a bent metal tab-washer device.

This will allow you to cut a bolt to the proper length if needed.

 

[drdoom]

I would avoid the Fastenal in Charlottesville VA, unless you like being ripped off.

 

[koda2000]

I'm not a big fan of Dorman, but...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-23744-Water-Pump-Bolt-Or-Stud-Kit-/332016383230?fits=Year:2000|Model:Explorer|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item4d4db7f4fe:m:mUgX59zJV5uEnQDgJ6rSuVg&vxp=mtr

A more complete ARP set runs about $35.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-Fasteners-154-1504-Water-Pump-Bolt-/181785546595?fits=Year:2000|Model:Explorer|Engine+-+Liter_Display:5.0L&hash=item2a53434f63:g:BC0AAOSwHnFVjKzA&vxp=mtr

 

[1998Exp]

A couple of the "studs" are used to secure the plastic wiring harness clips, keeping the harness out of the belt and pulleys. You might be able to work around the need for a stud using other methods of securing the harness. Possibly a bent metal tab-washer device.

This will allow you to cut a bolt to the proper length if needed.

I just used 'fender' type washers (large OD), and drilled a small hole in them for a piece of wire to secure the harness. The bosses on the timing cover are the size of a regular washer, so there was no need to bend the large ones.

 

[rpenner54]

Good info here. I am struggling with one stud right now. I have drilled into the top of the water pump and have squirted into that. Once I did that I have attempted to loosen/tighten the bolt and have been getting rusty pb-blaster in my hole. However it's still stuck and I am just waiting for the pb-blaster to hopefully work into that rust. I am thinking it may not happen but you never know.

 

[crunchie_frog]

I have done 3 of these for timing cover gasket replacements on the 302s and the first one I broke one of the bolts. The second two I heated the bolt heads to glowing red with an oxy acetylene torch and waited a waited a minute or less and then tried backing the bolt out realizing too much torque would break the bolt and was able to get the bolts out. For me the bolts that were hard to back out were on the driver side. With the bolt out you could see the significant amount corrosion on the unthreaded part of the bolts at the locations going through the water pump housing and the timing cover housing from internal coolant leakage into these locations. I was afraid to put heat on the timing cover thinking it might warp it, but the water pump was being replaced anyway so the heat from the torch on the bolt head definitely heated up water pump housing.

 

[gmbroy]

I would avoid the Fastenal in Charlottesville VA, unless you like being ripped off.

LOL I am a maintenance mechanic at the Zamma Corp. in Orange VA . We deal with Fastenal & there prices can be very high . If we quote them a price that is much lower they will match it . But what about all the people who just fork it over . We order on line if possible .

 

[Summajet]

I washed under hood. Prior to washing spewed coolant off there are no means. However when it Broke down and was towed home it sprayed coolant all under the hood.
How long before antifreeze coolant goes away?
Gonna check radiator and make sure no leaks. Top upper radiator hose is tight after running truck.

 

[koda2000]

It will eventually evaporate, but I'd just take a garden hose and rinse the engine compartment down. Use a shower spray or just put your thumb over the end of the hose. If you don't have a garden hose handy, use the self-wash at the car wash. About the only place you should stay away from, or cover, is the alternator.

 

[Summajet]

I am going to use a garden hose and cover the alternator. At the time the bearing/seal failed in the water pump it blew coolant everywhere from the weep hole like a power washer. Glad I knew to cut it off and have it towed and not risk warping or cracking the block.
Another thing when i removed the timing cover i placed rags as mentioned over the oil pan opening but still had parts of the gasket fall in pan. I vacuum the pan out and with a flexible grabbing claw tool i ran the clean rag all inside the oil pan. Dip stick looks clean..

 

[Summajet]

I am driving it to work this,week about a 40 mile commute each way. Had sat for 6 weeks till I fixed it this past week. I don't like gas sitting in a vehicle or marine tank for long periods due to gas degrading....
I washed under hood yesterday and covered the alternator. I am sure it will take time to evaporate. The coolant was like a power washer and covered everything under the hood when it failed.

I Did make sure to place rtv at corners of oil pan/timing cover to keep from oil leaks. So far no coolant or oil leaks!
Radiator as far as I can see no leaks. Was replaced with water pump in 2012. Thinking of replacing it as added measure. Pretty straight forward removing fan and radiator shroud. Unhook transmission cooler lines and install. Bleed coolant system and trans.

 

[CDW6212R]

I am driving it to work this,week about a 40 mile commute each way. Had sat for 6 weeks till I fixed it this past week. I don't like gas sitting in a vehicle or marine tank for long periods due to gas degrading....
I washed under hood yesterday and covered the alternator. I am sure it will take time to evaporate. The coolant was like a power washer and covered everything under the hood when it failed.

I Did make sure to place rtv at corners of oil pan/timing cover to keep from oil leaks. So far no coolant or oil leaks!
Radiator as far as I can see no leaks. Was replaced with water pump in 2012. Thinking of replacing it as added measure. Pretty straight forward removing fan and radiator shroud. Unhook transmission cooler lines and install. Bleed coolant system and trans.

Well done, that's a very tough job and broken WP bolts are hell.

If the radiator doesn't leak(look carefully along the edges of the two tanks), leave that in place. The V8 radiator is awful to install, avoid that as much as possible.

If anyone has to do the 302 radiator, and not rushed, it's better to locate the V6 radiator brackets(hold the AC condenser at bottom), and buy the V6 radiator instead. Regards,

 

[koda2000]

Well done, that's a very tough job and broken WP bolts are hell.

If the radiator doesn't leak(look carefully along the edges of the two tanks), leave that in place. The V8 radiator is awful to install, avoid that as much as possible.

If anyone has to do the 302 radiator, and not rushed, it's better to locate the V6 radiator brackets(hold the AC condenser at bottom), and buy the V6 radiator instead. Regards,

I agree. Changing the V8 rad is a PITA between the fanny-pack clips and the fact that there's no room between the frame rails. I've change 4 of them over the years and it never gets any easier. Funny thing is that the first one I did went the smoothest. The V6's are super easy to replace. IDK why Ford used the fanny-pack design on the V8's.

 

[CDW6212R]

I spent about 30-45 minutes look at and "playing with" the new V8 radiator when I began to put it in. It took me that long to figure out how the thing had to go in, before actually attaching the plastic clips. It's basically a PITA puzzle, you must put the radiator in part way, locating inside the frame rails but above the clip connections, and also bend(flex) the middle plastic clip rearward, then manage to hook the middle clip while getting the top clip in, etc.

After you see what has to happen, then it's a period of trial and error to hook the clips in, which when it happens is only a minute or so. But the failed attempts before that can be a long period of time. Given the frustration and cussing, it'd be best to skip the clips, and buy the V6 bracket and radiator, easy.

 

[Summajet]

Yes I remember it was a pain replacing radiator in 2012. Is the capacity of the v6 radiator different from the v8?

Yes lucky I got bolt out and mechanic at shop each one varies as to what bolt will break.

One issue I had was the fel pro gasket set. First set was in a free moving cardboard box. The seal has put a crease in the timing cover gasket. Got another fel pro set in a flat cardboard back with clear wrap. Gasket perfectly laid flat. So check gaskets if purchased in a cardboard box.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes I remember it was a pain replacing radiator in 2012. Is the capacity of the v6 radiator different from the v8?
....

The V6 and V8 both had the same radiator capacity, and Ford changed both to a half thickness version in the 98/99 years. These have great cooling systems, so the thin version is fine for anyone not in a very hot climate, or towing, or off roading with a custom bumper that blocks airflow.

Those 96-01 302 Explorers just had a very poor condenser mounting design, being completely attached to the radiator, was dumb.

 

[Summajet]

Yes i pull a enclosed trailer 6 x 12 so will need the v8 rad