Water pump failure leads to dead engine | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Water pump failure leads to dead engine

Should Ford cover part of all of this repair out of loyalty?

  • Yes, a water pump failure at 95k should not destroy an engine

    Votes: 155 87.6%
  • No, and please quit whining about it

    Votes: 22 12.4%

  • Total voters
    177
Looks like your family was a good sport about it. I hate this for you, though.
 



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Sorry to hear about your case, I would be extremely upset as well. Especially since the vehicle gave you no warning of an engine coolant overheat condition.
So far our explorer has been OK, I am on the fence regarding FORD being "one and done" for me, but stories like this make me want to run away to different OEM when it comes time again to buy brand new next vehicle...
Have you tried calling FORD directly? or writing a letter to the Dearborn, MI headquarters?
 






This might be far fetched:
Early 2011 explorers had an issue were the coolant fans would not start up, leading to coolant/engine overheating shutdown (with warning, unlike your case).
this is pure speculation, but what if your 2011 had one of those defective coolant modules and was not able to register the increase of temperature? the engine would continue to chug along, and you would continue to drive... I just made this all up, but just a thought, maybe ask the dealership if the coolan fans/module seem to be operable??
 






Water pump failure leaks to dead engine

I just had to post something about the way that Ford is treating my son (tlbig10) with his blown engine due to a water pump failure (see earlier thread). I am not the type to quickly jump in on a problem and start shouting. I like to remain calm and let the problem work its way through the "system". I do not agree with Ford's refusal to help out in any way with this massive engine failure due to a blown water pump. That is not normal for a car with 61,600 miles that is still within the 5 year warranty


When my son called me in the middle of the hot desert east of Indio/Palms Springs 2 weeks ago to tell me that his pristine 2011 Ford Explorer with 61,600 miles was dead, I was really surprised. Since 2001 I have purchased seven (7) used Ford Focus and have been very pleased with the quality of work on the Fords. None of the used Focus that I purchased every had any major problems and I put more than 100K on many of the cars. I drive a 2012 Ford Focus and purchased a 2013 Ford Focus for my daughter last August. I was a Chevy Suburban/Truck owner for 25 years and became a big Ford fan when the economy crashed and Ford told Washington that they were fine and did not need any bailout money like GM and Chrysler. That really meant a lot to me to see an American company forseeing the future and making changes so they did not need any taxpayer dollars to bail them out like GM (Government Motors).

Anyway, if you have read not read the thread about the blown engine that was 1,600 miles over the 60,000 mile warranty, please take a minute to review it. I was sure that Ford would step up and help out tlbig10 with this massive engine failure. The quoted cost to replace the engine - $7,300.00.

TLbig 10 took all of the right steps with Fiesta Ford dealership in Indio where the Explorer was towed and patiently waited to see what Ford was going to say about the blown engine. When the dealership and the local Ford rep in Los Angeles reviewed the case, they turned it down. There was no offer to share in the cost of a new engine from Ford, just a "Sorry, you are over the warranty" response. 1,600 miles over.
 






Sorry to hear about your case, I would be extremely upset as well. Especially since the vehicle gave you no warning of an engine coolant overheat condition.
So far our explorer has been OK, I am on the fence regarding FORD being "one and done" for me, but stories like this make me want to run away to different OEM when it comes time again to buy brand new next vehicle...

I know people like me who bought brand new Altimas and a 14 jeep overland. The jeep is my cousins and in the last year has been in the shop 8 or 9 times for engine lights that make the car undriveable. Jeep has some very big issues with some things. my mother has a 14 Jeep GC and i love it. no problems yet.

It really is hit or miss if you get a car with problems..or no problems. A 80K BMW will have it's own issues as well. I think what's ruing all these cars is technology. When cars were simple like my 98 GP...ya things went wrong but nothing major and it was cheap to fix..now...not so much with computers ect in the cars[/quote]
 












Maybe Peter can step in and tell you how this forum works. If you read the intro, it's a RESOURCE, by Enthusiasts, for Enthusiasts. It has nothing to do with getting someone from Ford to look at your case. Getting on here and *****ing about a problem is simply *****ing about a problem. Nobody on here can help you other than to offer advice.

Your son has to take his case to the Dealer and the Ford Rep and see if it can be resolved. From what I read, the car is out of warranty, so Ford is in no way obligated to do anything. The entire situation sounds to me like driver error, driving a car when it's overheated and locking up the engine.

Quite frankly, if I was Ford I would tell you just that. You bought a used car, operated it improperly, broke it, and it's your responsibility to pay to get it fixed. Getting on here and complaining is doing nothing to help the situation. And it's only alienating the rest of the members.
 






^^^^^ Harsh words, IMHO....
OP said he got no warning, so how can that be driver error????
Think about it, your engine destroys 1,600 miles out of warranty, how would you feel if that happened to your explorer???
 






how did the water pump fail? I've had 2 water pump experiences in my days of driving: the first one leaked like its suppose to and the other made bad sounds before the impellers hit the inside of the engine block causing the pump to stop immediately and the serp belt was tossed off which caused the battery light to come on and the steering to get stiff.

Is this water pump driven by a different belt than what is also used to spin the alternator? Does this motor have electric steering?

Or is it chain driven?

What was the temp gauge reading? I don't think you'll get any idiot lights- at least not with the cars I'm familiar with.
 












Interesting about the gauge.

It also says that it changes colors. But does the temp indicator in the thermometer thingy actually move based on temp? Or is it entirely just a color thing?

Is it possible that the driver saw the temp indication in the middle of the thermometer and figured all was good and the color red was overlooked?
 






The dealer told me coolant entered the engine when the water pump failed.

The mystery behind it is what gets me. No rise in temperature, no notification when things were not right, no steam coming out of the hood, no white smoke out the exhaust, just a slow power loss over 10 minutes with some weird rattle coming from the front of the car. Then when the car is finally stopped, I get a low engine oil light and a check engine light P0017. The car wasn't dripping any fluid when I was stopped. You can kind of see from the picture the area is totally dry.

I'm still stuck on this mainly because I don't understand the engine design. I looked at the parts diagram and the water pump has 2 gaskets. I'm wondering if one of the gaskets failed rather then the water pump. One would think the water pump pumps antifreeze through tubes/pipes. I can't understand how a failed pump would divert antifreeze anywhere else but the pipes/tubes that it is connected to already.

Water pump is a $85 part.. I can't understand how that can take out a whole engine.....

Part # 9 - water pump
Part #10 & 11 - gaskets

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As others stated, a blown head gasket, absolutely.. Coolant can get in that way and hydrolock the motor. (repeating myself, I know) but A water pump is connected to hoses.. those hoses circulate the coolant. If a pump fails, it should either leak or the impeller gets destroyed internally.. neither send cooling inside the motor.
 






Also found this on page 16.
Engine coolant temperature (RTT):

Illuminates when the engine coolant temperature is high.
Stop the vehicle as soon as possible, switch off the engine and let cool.
 






One last comment which I think will help you out.. Have they given you a written estimate for the motor?

What if I were to tell you you can get a brand new motor from Ford for approximately $3,700?

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea...rim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/engine-scat

Engine Part # AT4Z-6006-B $3,670.70
Engine Part # AT4Z-6006-A $3,465.00

B supersedes A so the B part number should be the engine you want. Add 4-6 hours of labor to install it and you should have a motor installed for under $4,500 and that is BRAND NEW with a 2 year, unlimited mile warranty. You can carry over most of the accessories like the alternator.. you'll need the $85 water pump.. but besides that, you should be good to go and you just saved yourself $3,000.

THE FACT THAT THE MOTOR RETAILS FOR $4,449 TELLS YOU THAT THIS DEALER THAT YOUR EXPLORER IS AT IS SCREWING YOU!!!! AT $110 AN HOUR FOR LABOR, IT DOES NOT TAKE 30 HOURS TO PUT A MOTOR IN.

I would print those prices out and have a serious talk with the General Manager of the dealership.
 






Coolant gauge will go up once the motor reaches a certain point. We were experiencing this when the cooling fan issue was going on.

This thread should be closed.. No need to have two threads and the OP in here really should not be trying to start crap on here when his son has already started a thread about his issue.
 






Joining the forum to bash on Ford and a forum member is unacceptable.

We're here as a community to help one another out, if you wanted to ask how to resolve this issue, I wouldn't have a problem.

You're bashing on Crystal, who is just a Ford customer service rep. There is only so much she can do.

This thread will now be closed, the other one posted by your son will remain open unless it becomes another bash thread.
 






I'm curious what the truck's repair history was like before the OP purchased the vehicle.
 






I know you bought it used, but have you considered going to the dealership that the original owner bought it at?

I would have a chat with someone there and escalate the matter at that single dealership.

If you have AAA it shouldn't be too bad to get it towed back home, I assume, so that a local dealer can deal with it. That dealership that it's at right now just isn't sounding right to me.
 






how did the water pump fail? I've had 2 water pump experiences in my days of driving: the first one leaked like its suppose to and the other made bad sounds before the impellers hit the inside of the engine block causing the pump to stop immediately and the serp belt was tossed off which caused the battery light to come on and the steering to get stiff.

Is this water pump driven by a different belt than what is also used to spin the alternator? Does this motor have electric steering?

Or is it chain driven?

What was the temp gauge reading? I don't think you'll get any idiot lights- at least not with the cars I'm familiar with.
I'm quite sure the 5th gen Explorer only has a single belt and yes, it does have electric steering. According to the OP, the temperature gauge did not indicate any issue.

Peter
 



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So if the water pump failed and is belt driven, wouldn't the belt have been tossed off when it failed? Unless the impeller just came completely off the shaft and the pulley was free spinning......

If the belt was tossed off, there would have been warning lights.

If the impeller came off, only the temp gauge would indicate a problem.
 






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