Went to the Dyno today

[96Saleen]

well, it has been an awesome day. had a great day hanging out at G-Force Performance and the Saleen made some really good power on the dyno with the Superchips Xcalibrator2...only thing i have to figure out is why it is only making 7psi, i put a 2.5inch pulley on which should be good for 10-11psi, so i have to track down what it might be...i am happy with the power it is putting down right now though, and this is without the water/meth injection, i am going to go back next week to tune for that once i get a couple of bugs worked out...

286WHP @ 4900
332WTQ @ 4300

let me know if you have any suggestions about the boost...

 

[410Fortune]

Nice! That oughtta scoot that 99 along

 

[rocket 5979]

only thing i have to figure out is why it is only making 7psi, i put a 2.5inch pulley on which should be good for 10-11psi, so i have to track down what it might be...let me know if you have any suggestions about the boost...

Have you had any headwork done or cam? If that is the case then your CFM flow will be the same but your boost will read less due to less restriction into the engine. Check and see what size of pulley is on your crank. If the pullies are right and you dont have any headwork done and the belt isnt slipping really bad then I dont know what it would be. If you had a leak your truck would run like crap so I doubt it is that. What rpm are you revving to? That has allot to do with how much boost is made. If you rev it 800 or so rpms lower than what it should be revving at then it most likely didnt hit peak boost for the setup yet. I can pretty much guarantee it is the wrong pulley either on the head unit or on the crank balancer. I see too many people make this same mistake.

 

[96Saleen]

stock heads and cam...the X runs fine, belt was slipping a little, but we tightened it on the dyno yesterday...the crank pulley is the one that it came with, although i have not measured it yet, i will do that at some point today...what size pulley should it be?

 

[rocket 5979]

stock heads and cam...the X runs fine, belt was slipping a little, but we tightened it on the dyno yesterday...the crank pulley is the one that it came with, although i have not measured it yet, i will do that at some point today...what size pulley should it be?

I dont know offhand anymore but I think mine was 7". I also installed mine about 3 or so years ago so I dont remember all the details. And mine was on an XB-1A and not a BD-11 which has a different impeller design which makes things different. hmm. Oh well.

 

[BeauJ]

The thing about those pulleys is they rate them for a 5 speed shifting at 6k, not a automatic shifting at 5k.

 

[96Saleen]

The thing about those pulleys is they rate them for a 5 speed shifting at 6k, not a automatic shifting at 5k.

right, but the 2.5inch should be rated at 13psi on a mustang, right? at least that is what i found from the research i did, maybe i read something wrong.

what pulley do you have beau to get 9psi out of your setup?

 

[BeauJ]

The 2.73 I think.

 

[96Saleen]

The 2.73 I think.

any thoughts then? i measured, i have the 2.5...

 

[96Saleen]

do you have a bypass-valve setup on yours?

 

[BeauJ]

Yes, I have one. If you don't have one, that could be a problem. Also, do you still have the intake tube that they included with the s/c kit?

 

[96Saleen]

yes i have a bypass-valve, but it was opening up at 7psi, not allowing it to go any higher.

which intake tube are you talking about? before or after the supercharger? i have several intake pipes of various sizes laying around from needing to custom fab an intake for the lightning MAF...

 

[96Saleen]

the other thing i found out today is that my crank pulley for the supercharger is only 6"...that is kind of a bummer, and i think the front seal might be gone now as well, so i am probably going to have to replace that. anyone know where to get a 7" supercharger crank pulley for the explorer?

 

[rocket 5979]

The 2.73 I think.

If I remember corectly, the 2.73 was listed for 11 car / 9 truck.
The 2.5 pulley was rated for 13 car / 11 truck or something like that.

Smaller pulley on charger more power
Bigger pulley on crank more power

If he has the 6" crank pulley then that is it right there. Plus also if he has a boost by-pass that opens at 7 psi then it would not hae mattered anyways if he had a pulley setup to make more than that because the rest would have been blown off to the atmosphere.

96Saleen I would say get the proper rated spring for how much max boost you want the bypass to open at. Then I would get the crank pulley to match, so you will actually make and see 9 or 10 pounds or how much ever boost your shooting for. It may have been almost three years since I did my install but I know my crank pulley was bigger than 6" in diameter. Hope you get things all figured out and fixed. Remember to take a video of the dyno runs and the screen showing the power so everyone here can share in the experience. I know I will have my camera when I go to the dyno for the first time and finally when it is done and making max power.

also I would try to call up the people at www.superchargersonline.com or www.proficientperformance.com and see what they got.

 

[BeauJ]

yes i have a bypass-valve, but it was opening up at 7psi, not allowing it to go any higher.

which intake tube are you talking about? before or after the supercharger? i have several intake pipes of various sizes laying around from needing to custom fab an intake for the lightning MAF...

A bypass valve is supposed to help you KEEP your boost, not lower it. It recirculates the air you can't use back to the intake tube so the s/c can get it back and make more boost. A blowoff valve keeps you boost from damaging the engine and blows the excess into the atmosphere. The rule of thumb is 6 lb of boost, get a bypass valve. 11+ lbs of boost, get a BOV.

Although I've yet to see anyone prove it, it's been said that the stock ****ty intake tube (before the s/c) the Powerdyne sells with the kit conducts heat very well and will lower you boost. By the way, when mine ripped I called them and asked how much for a new one, and they said $36 for a foot . Of course I hung up the phone, and looked on ebay for a custom intake tube that have a bung for the bypass valve. If you have a custom tube, wrap it with heat shield for headers or get it ceramic coated. Or you can make a true cold air intake. I've yet to decide with one to choose, but I'm probably gonna do the CAI with a heat shield and a air tube coming from the lower bumper.

 

[96Saleen]

i will take some pics of my setup tomorrow, so you can see what it looks like, i don't have the dryer hose intake, powerdyne actually included something decent. it is the only part of the kit i was impressed with...i do have an aluminum intake tube after the S/C with a bung for the bypass valve, so i should be seeing alot more boost than i am. but, when i took the crank pulley off today to fix the oil leak, it was only 6.5 inches, so i should be at about 8-9 psi right now. i tried to get on it tonight to see what the boost was looking like and it detonated really bad, so i let off, but it looked like about 7.5-8 before i did. i am going to take it back monday so i can get it right. i am also still throwing a check engine light with codes p0172 and p0175. i just replaced the O2 sensors friday, so i know it is not those, so now i have to figure that out as well...i will keep you posted on the progress

 

[rocket 5979]

A bypass valve is supposed to help you KEEP your boost, not lower it. It recirculates the air you can't use back to the intake tube so the s/c can get it back and make more boost. A blowoff valve keeps you boost from damaging the engine and blows the excess into the atmosphere.

The bypass will not let you keep your boost, but it will let the supercharger recooperate from boost lag a little quicker when it is sending already pre-pressurized air into the charger. It still acts alot like a BOV. Both are just there to provide an outlet for boost spike when you let off of the throttle. BOV are usually rated for more boost though. As long as both are situated before the MAS then the air will not be metered after it blows off or bypasses back to the head unit inlet. I consider a BOV for more race applications and bypass for daily driver. I know I am restating some things but am also helping to clarify others.

Either way it seems like this fella needs to reconfigure his existing one or get another one that is rated for higher boost. Another problem might be the vacuum line that goes from your brake booster to your bypass(Im assuming it is the type that uses that). Check and see if that is connected correctly.

 

[BeauJ]

The bypass will not let you keep your boost, but it will let the supercharger recooperate from boost lag a little quicker when it is sending already pre-pressurized air into the charger.

That's what I meant. It keeps it from wasting air and forcing more air into the intake that could damage something.

 

[96Saleen]

i went and put a new custom exhaust on today with one 3" high-flow cat into a magnaflow muffler. Going back to the dyno tomorrow to see what kind of numbers i can crank out...

 

[96Saleen]

WELL!!! I BLEW-UP THE TRANNY TODAY!!!!!

so, i am taking it in tomorrow to get the full treatment done. i had planned on doing this eventually, just not this soon...it will be nice when i get it done, just didn't need to spent the money right now. it will be rebuilt by a place that specializes in performance transmissions and will also have a 2000-2200 stall in it. they are said they can rebuild my stall convertor and upgrade it in the process. i will have more info when i go in to talk to them in the morning about it...