What oil to run in 2.3 liter Explorer | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

What oil to run in 2.3 liter Explorer

I got rid of the factory fill just short of 700 miles and used castrol magnatec 5w30. It's pretty well known in the 2.3 ecoboost world, aka mustang guys etc. So i figure try it in the explorer. I know i have free oil changes at the dealer but what i did was just got my own supply from them for future oil changes. Didn't get the motorcraft syn blend though. Went with the full synthetic and the OEM filters.

I only put magnatec in the explorer because i still had a jug leftover from my previous lease.

Honestly if you change your oil religiously, any reputable brand synthetic would be sufficient enough.

I canot figure out what the difference is between the magnetic and the edge, I run edge in my subaru ej25 turbo motor but it is a dinosaur now.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Mobile 1 Extended is solid. I had Blackstone check it out after 20k+ on a motor with over 150k on it and it was in surprisingly good shape.
My buddy is getting this 1998 Mercury Mountaineer as the next project. Been sitting for about 7 years but looks pretty solid. Only 97k miles on the clock. We'll just finish installing the brake kit and wheel on the current Superduty project and we'll take a closer look at it. Got to get a nice oil to give the Mountaineer a better engine life and seems Mobile 1 extended is a great one.
 






I canot figure out what the difference is between the magnetic and the edge, I run edge in my subaru ej25 turbo motor but it is a dinosaur now.

The add package mainly.

Edge would be a superior oil to magnatec obviously. But some people want true bang for buck when it comes to oil and magnatec is always among the choices for that. Sometimes they show up on amazon for 17 bucks for a 5qt jug.

Not a fan of edge though in my personal opinion. I use mobil 1 extended in the corvette.
 






I canot figure out what the difference is between the magnetic and the edge, I run edge in my subaru ej25 turbo motor but it is a dinosaur now.
You could run peanut oil in that EJ25 and it’d last, as long as you filled it the same week it ran out. The much more critical fluid in that puppy is the antifreeze.
 






Purchased a 2020 Explorer Limited in mid November. At 4900 miles the Dealer did a oil and filter change today for $39.00, The invoice states the oil and filter were NOT FoMoCo products, and were not covered by a Ford warrantee. This is the last oil change they will do. I did pre ask what the price was for synthetic oil and I was quoted $75.00. I did get the crappy wipers replaced, we'll see if they do better.

Most likely the new Ford brand wipers will still smear. I had to get The Bosch OE blades to resolve that issue. Tried 3 sets of Ford wipers before moving on.
 






Purchased a 2020 Explorer Limited in mid November. At 4900 miles the Dealer did a oil and filter change today for $39.00, The invoice states the oil and filter were NOT FoMoCo products, and were not covered by a Ford warrantee. This is the last oil change they will do. I did pre ask what the price was for synthetic oil and I was quoted $75.00. I did get the crappy wipers replaced, we'll see if they do better.
Welcome to the Forum Frank. :wave:
Why on earth did the dealer not use OEM oil and filter, especially on a new vehicle? If they did that on mine, I'd ask them to replace all with the proper oil and filter. Not acceptable.

Peter
 






Most likely the new Ford brand wipers will still smear. I had to get The Bosch OE blades to resolve that issue. Tried 3 sets of Ford wipers before moving on.

Thanks for the tip. My wipers have been bad since day 1. Rain-x treatment helps if you apply to the windshield at least once a month but i am planning to replace the wipers with better ones once winter is over.

Have you tried the rain-x blades?
 






Thanks for the tip. My wipers have been bad since day 1. Rain-x treatment helps if you apply to the windshield at least once a month but i am planning to replace the wipers with better ones once winter is over.

Have you tried the rain-x blades?
I have not tried the Rain-X brand blades. I have put rain-x on the windshield with ok results. The best improvement for me was the Bosch OE series blades, but they are expensive. Still, driving in the rain with a smeared field of vision is not fun or safe, so I am willing to pay for better blades if need be.

I actually think the Ford OEM blades are made by a quality manufacturer (Bosch or Valeo I suspect), but for some reason I had no luck. There is a large thread on this forum about the wipers, with plenty of others experiencing smear on the drivers side. The concensus in that thread seems to be Bosch OE or Rain-X brand blades perform better than Ford OEM.
 






I have not tried the Rain-X brand blades. I have put rain-x on the windshield with ok results. The best improvement for me was the Bosch OE series blades, but they are expensive. Still, driving in the rain with a smeared field of vision is not fun or safe, so I am willing to pay for better blades if need be.

I actually think the Ford OEM blades are made by a quality manufacturer (Bosch or Valeo I suspect), but for some reason I had no luck. There is a large thread on this forum about the wipers, with plenty of others experiencing smear on the drivers side. The concensus in that thread seems to be Bosch OE or Rain-X brand blades perform better than Ford OEM.


Rain X anti fog spray is good stuff, I use it on auto glass mirrors inside and out plus my regular eye glasses
 






I forgot about that product. It helps the most for when the heater isn't working or the AC is low on freon, or out.
 






I have not tried the Rain-X brand blades. I have put rain-x on the windshield with ok results. The best improvement for me was the Bosch OE series blades, but they are expensive. Still, driving in the rain with a smeared field of vision is not fun or safe, so I am willing to pay for better blades if need be.

I actually think the Ford OEM blades are made by a quality manufacturer (Bosch or Valeo I suspect), but for some reason I had no luck. There is a large thread on this forum about the wipers, with plenty of others experiencing smear on the drivers side. The concensus in that thread seems to be Bosch OE or Rain-X brand blades perform better than Ford OEM.

I believe OEM wipers are sourced from Valeo.
 






I am looking for a civil discussion for the type of oil to run in the 2.3 liter Explorer? I have been around 300-400 HP 4 bang motors my whole life. I change the oil in my Subaru based up time and not miles so changing oil in the Explorer is a similar process although it will get changed more often. I am not looking for extended run times as I believe these little 4s run better with a 5-7k mile synthetic oil change.

Some I have been looking at include

Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5w30
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w30
Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w30
Motorcraft Phillips 66 5w30

I usually run Wix oil filters but willing to run the Motorcraft for warranty reasons. So I would even consider a premium brand if it is reasonable. I am estimating this will save roughly 20-30 dollars per visit. I am assuming
I use pennzoil 5w-30 full synthetic. Do a 5k oil change, I never push it past that personaly since oil is cheap, and engines are expensive. But basically any 5w-30 full synthetic oil from a good brand will be perfect for the engine. Not the walmart special or what ever, stay away from cheapo brands. And a wise old ford mechanic once told me don't run motorcraft oil you're paying for the name not good oil. I can't confirm this but I've heard the new 2.3 have oil dilution problems, if this were true then definitely change ever 5k, hopefully another member can weight in on that.
 






If you’re doing 5k oil changes the Walmart synthetic is fine.
 






A lot of good info thrown out here...........thanks

I discovered a few years ago about the API index or grading & JASO
The further down the alphabet the better the oil as syn. goes the furthest.

Wmt. has a ........SAE 5W 20 Full Syn oil API SP Plus ISLAC G5 under $15
I personally use SAE 5W 30 Full Syn High Mileage etc.

I recommend MOTORKOTE:
(reason I believe NASCAR engine's don't blow up anymore unless someone forgot to put it in)
Found MK when my 7 yr warranty ran out on a new $30k Hi Perf Harley I bought in 2007. There are 73k on the bike now with literally no internal noises at operating temp. If I remember correctly H-D wanted $1800 for 2 more yr's.
EDIT ADDED: NO INTERNAL NOISES USING A MECHANIC'S STETHOSCOPE ALL AROUND THE OVERALL BLOCK (RUNNING).
ADDITIONAL CREDIT GOES TO QUICKSILVER 20W 50 FULL SYN (PARAFFIN BASED) MOTORCYCLE OIL.

Now look at what you guy's made me find !

(Recommend viewing complete article below)

The International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) also has standards for motor oil. Introduced in 2004, GF-4[22] applies to SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosity grade oils. In general, ILSAC works with API in creating the newest gasoline oil specification, with ILSAC adding an extra requirement of fuel economy testing to their specification. For GF-4, a Sequence VIB Fuel Economy Test (ASTM D6837) is required that is not required in API service category SM.

A key new test for GF-4, which is also required for API SM, is the Sequence IIIG, which involves running a 3.8 litres (230 cu in), GM 3.8 L V-6 at 125 hp (93 kW), 3,600 rpm, and 150 °C (302 °F) oil temperature for 100 hours. These are much more severe conditions than any API-specified oil was designed for: cars which typically push their oil temperature consistently above 100 °C (212 °F) are most turbocharged engines, along with most engines of European or Japanese origin, particularly small capacity, high power output.

The IIIG test is about 50% more difficult[23] than the previous IIIF test, used in GF-3 and API SL oils. Engine oils bearing the API starburst symbol since 2005 are ILSAC GF-4 compliant.[24]

To help consumers recognize that an oil meets the ILSAC requirements, API developed a "starburst" certification mark.

A new set of specifications, GF-5,[25] took effect in October 2010. The industry had one year to convert their oils to GF-5 and in September 2011, ILSAC no longer offered licensing for GF-4.

After nearly a decade of GF-5, ILSAC released final GF-6 specifications in 2019, with licensed sales to oil manufacturers and re-branders to begin 1 May 2020. There are two GF6 standards; GF-6A being a progression and fully backwards compatible with GF-5, and GF-6B specifically for SAE 0W-16 viscosity oil.[26]
 


















I am looking for a civil discussion for the type of oil to run in the 2.3 liter Explorer? I have been around 300-400 HP 4 bang motors my whole life. I change the oil in my Subaru based up time and not miles so changing oil in the Explorer is a similar process although it will get changed more often. I am not looking for extended run times as I believe these little 4s run better with a 5-7k mile synthetic oil change.

Some I have been looking at include

Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5w30
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w30
Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w30
Motorcraft Phillips 66 5w30

I usually run Wix oil filters but willing to run the Motorcraft for warranty reasons. So I would even consider a premium brand if it is reasonable. I am estimating this will save roughly 20-30 dollars per visit. I am assuming.
If you want to learn which 5w-30 is best look up on youtube project farm, and find his 5w-30 oil tournament. He does some good test and checks out a lot of brands. I highly recommend checking it out, just to learn something about oil. Here is the link to the final two,
 






If you want to learn which 5w-30 is best look up on youtube project farm, and find his 5w-30 oil tournament. He does some good test and checks out a lot of brands. I highly recommend checking it out, just to learn something about oil. Here is the link to the final two,



I will check it out but most of those are baised towards the oil they want to do the best and honestly that reads like an amsoil commercial that is what it is
 






I am looking for a civil discussion for the type of oil to run in the 2.3 liter Explorer? I have been around 300-400 HP 4 bang motors my whole life. I change the oil in my Subaru based up time and not miles so changing oil in the Explorer is a similar process although it will get changed more often. I am not looking for extended run times as I believe these little 4s run better with a 5-7k mile synthetic oil change.

Some I have been looking at include

Castrol Edge Full Synthetic 5w30
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Full Synthetic 5w30
Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w30
Motorcraft Phillips 66 5w30

I usually run Wix oil filters but willing to run the Motorcraft for warranty reasons. So I would even consider a premium brand if it is reasonable. I am estimating this will save roughly 20-30 dollars per visit. I am assuming.
I have used Amsoil signature 5/30 since mine had 5000 miles. Now have 79000. Change between 7-9k and use amsoil filter.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





I will check it out but most of those are baised towards the oil they want to do the best and honestly that reads like an amsoil commercial that is what it is

His tests really don't prove much of how the oil reacts inside an engine.

Remember everyone has different driving habits. 3000 miles per oil run for one owner could be totally different than 3000 miles per oil run with another owner.

The only way to really know what oil is best, FOR YOU. Is pick an oil you like, run it for 3-5k or whatever you do and have it tested at blackstone labs. That way you can monitor how the engine is wearing.
 






Back
Top