What vacuum line is this?

[EB4X]

Just had my inaugural zipTied drive... 30 minutes. Woohooo.. smooth as a baby's report card, even 50 to 60!

So that cleared up any remaining drive ability issues that remained after plug wire replacement...correct? Aside from aforementioned issues that clamp being off was more than likely also causing your P0174 code.

 

[rigbyrigz]

So that cleared up any remaining drive ability issues that remained after plug wire replacement...correct? Aside from aforementioned issues that clamp being off was more than likely also causing your P0174 code.

One 30 minute drive since the zipTie was applied was very smooth, and no P0171 P0174 (or any) codes on that trip.

The spark plus n ignition wiring is due here tomorrow or Tuesday so hasn't been replaced YET.

After applying the zipTie,we did some (OBDII scanner) Live Data during idle and minimal revving: I think the 17% Trim data THEN seen is higher than 10% enough to warrant replacing the first/OLDER MAF...if those numbers don't go down, or the current MAF doesn't reach 9g rather than 7g, or???

... I have a new OEM MAF (third one tried) that we took off after bucking and more... perhaps THAT was due to the loose (gapping?)air intake hose... but put the old MAF back: Became drivable tho' ruff (perhaps limp mode, or perhaps in the process, the sleeve was pushed up more snug than loose for while)) but constant P0171 & P0174 as well lead me to think still MAF issue.

I want to replace ZipTie with the proper clamp... I noticed one seller sells the fitting air intake hose XL2Z9B659AAA for $20 or so, but the photo shows it has NO CLAMPS which is weird, as the clamps are not really a viable fitting part number (hence the problem)...

I wrote the sellers of the $55-60 XL2Z9B659AAA fitting hoses to ask if they definitely have 2 clamps one each end on the hose they sell, may go that route subject to the issue about just buying or acquiring a clamp and inserting it thereon.

WHEN I get this hose (CLAMP) issue fully resolved, not just a zipTie, and (shortly) new plugs n wire... I will check the trim data and the drive smoothness and the lack of (pending or other) codes and report back, with a lighter heart!! (I might go to the new OEM MAF - which is now back in the box in our shop, if trim data or other cause or circumstances warrant.

I probably should give it a chance to ReLearn also, before drawing such any revealing conclusions.

THANKS.

 

[rigbyrigz]

I have had 4 smooth trips since the zipTies were applied to outlet tube, although P0171 & P0174 popped up near the end of my 4th driving trip. I had started to think my original MAF - cleaned and now back on - might not be a problem after all, but...

I have ordered the clamps EB4X suggested in Post #29, as 4 of the sellers (dealers and Parts Guys) wrote back that the $60 complete hose they are selling (matching 2000-MM-V8-AWD diagram Part 6) lacks clamps both ends!!! I also have received strong suggestion it is OK to retrofit or rig any worm hose clip or standard hose clamp onto the end that lacks it, even shaving the bumps if need be to make a snug fit.

My Taylor 8mm $47 ignition wires arrived today: Amazon app/ad said "This Fits your 2000 MM 5.0L AWD V8" but it doesn't. Something about having coils instead of a distributor, the helpers tell me. Sigh. So will try again. The Double platinum spark plus are due tomorrow, and I bought a $3 gap measurer.

My upgraded OBDII scanner device told me today after 4th trip, while key on but no engine running, short term trim 14.8% and long term 0% (ooops I may have that backward, sorry) and then when I started it, short term 0-1.5% and long term 21.8%. This would seem to suggest my newest genuine fitting OEM MAF now back in its box on the shelf, should probably be tried again once the other 2 issues (sparks and clamp) are resolved...

...does anyone offhand know what the MAF reading (7g? 9g? etc) should be on an MAF-functioning-well 2000 MM V8 5.0L AWD? I know on the other Ford models I watched youtubes on, they sought readings of 9 or 9.12g, but were getting 7.8g, and the fuel trim pctgs were intermittently high... when they replaced THAT MAF, it dropped to normal (and no codes.) ..also not sure related to this, what at IDLE, revved, and reLearning waits affect these (desired) readings so any conclusion of "bad MAF - replace and reset ECU" seems a bit complex and challenging to me still.

THANKS!

 

[rigbyrigz]

RIngular clamp suggested by EB4X arrived and applied today:

Helper had to shave some of the bump, but wasn't a bad fit, and now is certainly snugger than the zipTie, Thanks.

New double-platinum sparks and ignition wires installed yesterday. One of the old plugs was rusted and broke off, so had to get the Easy-Out tool-set, but that went well. I'm thinking maybe (jailed) nephew didn't replace them (all) last year after all.

Two very nice and smooth drives since. No codes, and the OLD old MAF is still on. Haven't checked the OBD2 scan tool to view the trims (or the MAF as I don't know what is a desirable read on MAF anyway: 9g?) but maybe after a pleasant holiday I'll take a look, and report.

Thanks and Happy Memorial Day all.

 

[EB4X]

 

[rigbyrigz]

WELL< (after new clamp, sparkplugs, wires) things were going almost OK. Several smooth trips to and from town, although some fuel trim nbrs still high and was considering swapping out the old MAF for the newest again. P0156 02 sensor code one time...

... then today had to pick up a hot water heater 80 miles away and decided to risk the trip. For an hour on the highway was fine. Then at a traffic light started shuddering and bucking, and pretty much the next 20 minutes and an attempt to return home with MAF disconnected (limp mode) was all hell breaks loose: trying MAF on MAF off just kept bucking and bursting and stalling and shuddering and then again.

Finally had road service tow it to a nearby (closed but participating) garage auto repair and paid someone $65 to drive me homme. Have to talk to the repair place tomorrow, discuss or whatever, not sure what to do at this point at all, not to mention my HWH is in the back. Sigh. Anyone? 212K miles. Thanks.

OH, besides P0156 codes and P0113 after disc MAF, the most telling seemed to be P1156, "Lack of HO2S21 switches, Fuel Trim at Limit" (Data on OBD2 shows sort term trim 15.6% long term 0%)

 

[Turdle]

Check closely the wiring to the egr-solenoid make sure it isn't touching the egr pipe. It's real hot and if they touch it may cause this issue.



Also, check the front drive shaft from underneath, you want to look for a wire harness that may be touching it ( which would be the harness to bank 2 sensor 1)

Have you tried this? seems your problem is intermittent and might just be a bad electrical connection

2nd gen issues? Try this first!

Sometimes a gremlin can be caused by the smallest thing. There are 2 large wire bundle connectors on the firewall. Both are held tight with a 10mm bolt. Any bad connection in either plug can cause just about any issue. from bad transmission shifting, bad o2 sensor readings, no start, no...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[CDW6212R]

Ditto, it sounds like something related to the wiring may be the cause of most of the codes. The inlet hose was the obvious issue, but whatever is causing issues has been part of it for a while. Check the wiring very carefully, Turdle is right aim for those which connect to the O2 sensors and the engine harness, the section for the transmission should all be above the trans, with nothing hanging anywhere.

 

[pecheli05]

Personally I find Haynes and Chilton manuals pretty useless. Consider that they cover multiple years and models and how thin they are compared to multi-volume OE shop manuals. They can't and don't cover everything.

Assuming that hose is the one that should be connected to the emissions purge valve (and that's the only hose of that diameter that I'm aware of located on that side of the engine bay) it's important.

The fuel tank is connected to the charcoal canister, which is located over the spare tire. Then there is a hose/line that runs up to the engine bay. The emissions purge valve is located under the battery. If you remove the battery and its tray you can see it easily. When the engine is running the purge valve is opened and fuel fumes are sucked into the engine and burned. The hose runs from the purge valve to the intake manifold. The hose must be connected (or at least plugged) to prevent un-monitored air (air not monitored by the MAF sensor) from entering the engine. Running the engine with this line open will cause the engine to run lean, which should set the check engine light on with lean P0171/P0174 codes. Running the engine like this (too much air and not enough fuel) causes it to run very hot. At a minimum you should plug the open hose immediately. You will probably still see the CEL come on with a code indicating a gross emissions leak. Replace the hose as soon as you can and clear the codes and you should be fine.

I take my hat off for you.. you are very knowledgeable. Thanks for your textbook lecture. Everything you said makes a lot of sense. May your knowledge bring you prosperity