Where is the cam position synchronizer located. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Where is the cam position synchronizer located.

chuckj5

Member
Joined
July 16, 2012
Messages
21
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City, State
Four Oaks, NC
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 4.0 4x4 4dr Explorer
I am trying to replace my cam position synchronizer and for the life of me I can't find it on the engine with the engine in the car. Seen a few Youtube how toos, one has the engine pulled and on a stand. The other has a clear view of the location. It looks like he pulled the intake manifold to have the room he has. I am laying on the engine with a flashlight and I see nothing that resembles the part, wires or hold down screw. Sure could use some help on this one.

0222231650_resized.jpg 0222231648b_resized.jpg
 



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I am trying to replace my cam position synchronizer and for the life of me I can't find it on the engine with the engine in the car. Seen a few Youtube how toos, one has the engine pulled and on a stand. The other has a clear view of the location. It looks like he pulled the intake manifold to have the room he has. I am laying on the engine with a flashlight and I see nothing that resembles the part, wires or hold down screw. Sure could use some help on this one.

View attachment 439319 View attachment 439320
Do you have the 4.0
I am trying to replace my cam position synchronizer and for the life of me I can't find it on the engine with the engine in the car. Seen a few Youtube how toos, one has the engine pulled and on a stand. The other has a clear view of the location. It looks like he pulled the intake manifold to have the room he has. I am laying on the engine with a flashlight and I see nothing that resembles the part, wires or hold down screw. Sure could use some help on this one.

View attachment 439319 View attachment 439320
On the X engine. It located below the lower manifold at the pass side rear on the engine, between the tranny dip stick and the upper manifold. Straight drop the pass side rear corner of the upper manifold.
 












Remove two 19mm or 18mm nuts on the transmission crossmember and jack up the t case/ back of the transmission until it hits the floor. This gives you more room to work

Otherwise the upper plenum needs to come off
Removing the upper plenum (intake) is not a bad idea anyways on an older truck, perfect time to replace your intake o ring gaskets and egr o ring they are likely leaking, the ethenol in our fuel and age causes them to dry up and they stop making the seal
 












Do you have the 4.0
On the X engine. It located below the lower manifold at the pass side rear on the engine, between the tranny dip stick and the upper manifold. Straight drop the pass side rear corner of the upper manifold.
Thanks for the reply. I do have the 4.0 engine. I am getting error codes PO 351 and 353. I have replace plugs, wires, coil pack. I hope replacing the cam position sensor will cure the codes.
 






Thanks for the reply. I do have the 4.0 engine. I am getting error codes PO 351 and 353. I have replace plugs, wires, coil pack. I hope replacing the cam position sensor will cure the codes.
1. Is the OHV engine?
2. I did a writeup on replacing it, only had too remove the coil.
cp Senser wiring break out the hardness right where you took the picture. 6" long down too the sensor.
? Why is the ground wire disconnected in the picture?

3. From what I can remember , as I was driving, the car was running fine 60 mph, then all of sudden the car feel it was shutting off. The check engine came on, I would slow down, check engine went off and the engine starting fine again.
The cam position sensor control the firing and you get a code for it. When my sensor fail code.
5. Eb4x might know more. He had the Same problem.
 






1. Is the OHV engine?
2. I did a writeup on replacing it, only had too remove the coil.
cp Senser wiring break out the hardness right where you took the picture. 6" long down too the sensor.
? Why is the ground wire disconnected in the picture?

3. From what I can remember , as I was driving, the car was running fine 60 mph, then all of sudden the car feel it was shutting off. The check engine came on, I would slow down, check engine went off and the engine starting fine again.
The cam position sensor control the firing and you get a code for it. When my sensor fail code.
5. Eb4x might know more. He had the Same problem.
Try watching this u tube video
Fordtechmakuloco
Ford Ignition Coil Primary Codes P0351-P0360 Diagnostic Walk through
 






4.0 CAM SYNCH.jpg


4.0 cam synch location and proper alignment once stabbed to oil pump and camshaft with cyl #1 at TDC on compression stroke
use alignment tool for your synchronizer when dropping it into the engine block
Motorcraft replacement synchronizer body (ONLY) many of the aftermarket ones can get stuck in the block (like physically do not fit)
Motorcraft maybe hard to find for a 96
They are listed with two shaft lengths for a 96, 123mm and 132mm good idea to have yours out before you order replacement



This is a the 3 wire sensor, 95-98, the 99-01 will use a 2 wire sensor, but still alignment/location on 4.0 is the same as pic
 






I have engine out and full access to the camshaft position unit if you need anything. The sensor itself would sure be a bugger to get to without intake removed. It has two special 5.5mm bolts for the sensor itself. My only fuss about removing the intake is the dadgum EGR tube setup with mine. All the EGR tubes pipes valve itself has to be taken loose before the pipe will come out of the intake plenum inorder to remove it. In this process is the challenge of getting the bolt loose from the dipstick then prying it up hoping not to break the tab.

I've learned that cussing is a reflex; not a vulgar habit.
 






You can actually walk the plastic intake off of the EGR tube without removing any EGR bolts
You have to rotate and lift because the EGR tube is J shaped inside the intake and pry pretty/pull pretty good
 






View attachment 439334

4.0 cam synch location and proper alignment once stabbed to oil pump and camshaft with cyl #1 at TDC on compression stroke
use alignment tool for your synchronizer when dropping it into the engine block
Motorcraft replacement synchronizer body (ONLY) many of the aftermarket ones can get stuck in the block (like physically do not fit)
Motorcraft maybe hard to find for a 96
They are listed with two shaft lengths for a 96, 123mm and 132mm good idea to have yours out before you order replacement



This is a the 3 wire sensor, 95-98, the 99-01 will use a 2 wire sensor, but still alignment/location on 4.0 is the same as pic
I have a 96 with the three wire sensor. I had no idea there were two shaft lenghts. Not an issue , I am replacing the position sensor cap only.. This another trouble shooting step. I had PO 351 and PO 353. I have replaced plugs, wires, coil, all that is left is the cam positioner. If that doesn't clear the codes I don't know what I'll do next. I also replaced the computer, still had codes. Thanks for you photos and information.
 






I have engine out and full access to the camshaft position unit if you need anything. The sensor itself would sure be a bugger to get to without intake removed. It has two special 5.5mm bolts for the sensor itself. My only fuss about removing the intake is the dadgum EGR tube setup with mine. All the EGR tubes pipes valve itself has to be taken loose before the pipe will come out of the intake plenum inorder to remove it. In this process is the challenge of getting the bolt loose from the dipstick then prying it up hoping not to break the tab.

I've learned that cussing is a reflex; not a vulgar habit.
Seems to me that cussing always helps when nothing else will do the job.
 






1. Is the OHV engine?
2. I did a writeup on replacing it, only had too remove the coil.
cp Senser wiring break out the hardness right where you took the picture. 6" long down too the sensor.
? Why is the ground wire disconnected in the picture?

3. From what I can remember , as I was driving, the car was running fine 60 mph, then all of sudden the car feel it was shutting off. The check engine came on, I would slow down, check engine went off and the engine starting fine again.
The cam position sensor control the firing and you get a code for it. When my sensor fail code.
5. Eb4x might know more. He had the Same problem.
The ground wire is part of the wire bundle that goes to the computer and some other stuff, the clamp for the wire bundle attaches to the firewall then the ground wire attaches to the double ended bolt.
 






In a discussion with a shade tree mechanic of mine, he is of the opinion that the error codes suggest the problem is most likely electrical rather than the synchronizer, since the engine runs smooth and all components (plugs, wires, coil) are new, and there is no noise coming from the CPS. Is it time to give the Explorer a decent funeral. I have no idea how to trouble shoot an engine electrical problem, where would I start. I've checked connections for corrosion, none found. Checking for continuity, shorts and grounds....I need help, suggestions and wiring diagrams. I have a really good multimeter, that is step one..What is step two? (take it to a Ford dealer and find someone to lend me money to pay the bill?
 






the pcm and its codes are telling you what the issue is

P0351
Ignition coil A primary or secondary CIRCUIT FAILURE

P0353
Ignition coil C primary or secondary circuit failure

These codes points to an issue with your coil pack
If the wiring to and from the coil pack checks out

Physicaly6 inspection of the coil pack and its wiring a good idea
if the wiring pigtail checks out may consider removing coil pack from the vehicle and inspecting it, many times they will swell or crack or show signs of failure on the outside
 






the pcm and its codes are telling you what the issue is

P0351
Ignition coil A primary or secondary CIRCUIT FAILURE

P0353
Ignition coil C primary or secondary circuit failure

These codes points to an issue with your coil pack
If the wiring to and from the coil pack checks out

Physicaly6 inspection of the coil pack and its wiring a good idea
if the wiring pigtail checks out may consider removing coil pack from the vehicle and inspecting it, many times they will swell or crack or show signs of failure on the o
Don't think it is the coil, the one installed is the third coil installed since the check engine light started. So it must be the wiring between the coil and the cam position synchronizer. Is there a procedure for checking the circuits? Thanks for your input.
 






The wiring is between the coil pack and the pcm and
then the cps and the pcm

The coil pack signals (coil drivers) to the coil packs are not shared with cam position sensor signal from sensor to pcm

I would start to suspect possible faulty pcm
 






The wiring is between the coil pack and the pcm and
then the cps and the pcm

The coil pack signals (coil drivers) to the coil packs are not shared with cam position sensor signal from sensor to pcm

I would start to suspect possible faulty pcm
I replaced the pcm still had the errors. This repair is becoming a full time hobby. Does there exist test procedure for your suggestion?
 



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I replaced the pcm still had the errors. This repair is becoming a full time hobby. Does there exist test procedure for your suggestion?
Just disconnect the PCM connector and the coil connector. Using a multi-meter to check the wiring from the PCM (pins at the connector) and the pins at the coil connector( pins at the coil). First check the ground wiring. You need a wiring diagram for your vehicle.
 






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