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Yellowfords "Billie Goat" registry

Finally making a registry for this Explorer hopefully the last new one I will make for a long time as the other two were sold. I'm calling her Billie since she's low and fat but likes to climb hills like crazy.

2000 Eddie Bauer
5.0 V8
265/70/16 Treadwright Guard Dog's
Oreilly Shackles
TT
1" body lift
4406 transfer case(currently without shift linkage)



Future Plans: (These change daily)
4.10 gears
33X10.50 BFG KM2's when the treadwrights wear out in a few years
tube bumpers
sliders
lockers front and rear


Who knows when these things will actually get done it sucks being a broke college student.

Picture time
stock as I saw it in the for sale ad on craigslist
black1.jpg

black2.jpg

black3.jpg

black4.jpg


When I bought it I knew there was something wrong with the front axle, so after tracking one down for $100 swapped it in and this is what was inside the old axle.
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SANY0420-1.jpg
A completely trashed pinion

more pictures
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Image017-1.jpg

Image016.jpg

Image015.jpg

SANY0431.jpg

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The frost bite Explorerforum attendee's
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And the mess she made at the car wash
Image001-1.jpg
 



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ive thought about going with a 1in BL
 



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ive thought about going with a 1in BL

I say go for it, the blocks were less than $30, and it looks like only 2 bolts need to be bought so it should be less than $35-$40 total.
 






yeah im about to order some cooper discoverer's stt 31.1050.15s with a 1in BL id say that'd look alright and preform well at SMORR with my stock 3.55 gears and possibly that locker.
 






Ya that should work pretty good, those 3.55's aren't going to be very much fun though. I already want 4.10's and I have a v8 with 3.73's lol.
 






Been working on improving my departure angle, I think this will greatly help. Now it seems there are other things hanging down, the shackles will be taken care of with some ******* leaf springs, and the spare tire is undecided at this point.

on to the pictures
hitch.jpg

hithc2.jpg

hitch3.jpg


Also placed an order with fastenal today, bolts will be here Tuesday and the body lift block should be here Monday, with install coming next weekend:cool:.
 






Are you going to cut the chrome and fender under the molding on the sides too?

You might want to think about having your exhaust pipe moved to exit the side behind the tire as well. That will keep it fairly safe compared to where it's at now.

I do like how that hitch is set that high, that makes a big difference in clearance. I have seen a small bumper like deal that attache's to the hitch. You could use that for when your not wheeling.

Your getting there, good work! :biggthump
 






Are you going to cut the chrome and fender under the molding on the sides too?

You might want to think about having your exhaust pipe moved to exit the side behind the tire as well. That will keep it fairly safe compared to where it's at now.

I do like how that hitch is set that high, that makes a big difference in clearance. I have seen a small bumper like deal that attache's to the hitch. You could use that for when your not wheeling.

Your getting there, good work! :biggthump

The hitch almost sits too high, but all I did was take a stock one cut the tabs off and flip it over it was getting dragged way to much everywhere.

I'll probably take of the chrome side things, the exhaust will probably just get cut shorter. Once I get the correct electrodes for my welder, I think the hitch will get beefed up as well as add to the area to make it look more like a bumper. The spare tire is still a mystery since if it gets put on top it probably won't fit in the garage anymore so looks like a spare tire carrier will need to be built as well.
 






Got the 1in body lift on without any major hichups, the front drivers bolt was a pain, and the two bolts that I bought were too long. But other than that it went awesome. I highly reccomend this to any one wanting a little more clearance, if the two bolts would have been the right size this would have been done in under 2 hours, which seems extremely fast compared to most people's experience with body lifts.

Everything needed for the lift.
10 1in PA BB01 blocks
2 M-12 110mm bolts
15mm socket
18mm socket
19mm socket for new bolts
vice grips
1/2in drive ratchet
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block installed
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the finished product
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bumper somewhat repositioned
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the rear without the spare underneith
SANY0453.jpg
 






Well now that I finally have the driveshafts for my 4406 they just had to go in, the only bad thing is still no shift linkage.

After starting this it definetly turned into one of the hardest things I have done it faugth me the hole way, the body lift was way easier along with the engine teardowns I have done.

Picture time

Driveshafts
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Cover under center console
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draining the 4404
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broken extension from removing the rear driveshaft
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cases next to each other
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tabs ground off top of case
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4406 installed
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slip yoke sticks out a little far for my liking
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I didn't get any pictures of when the gas tank needed to be dropped but what a pain it took forever to get everything moved far enough apart to get the 4406 up in there. The exhaust ended up being the biggest pain the stupid rear cats kept getting in the way. The front driveshaft isn't installed yet since I still need to change the u-joint on it. Hopefully a junkyard will finally be smart enough to realize what a manual transfer case shift linkage is soon so it can actually be shifted from inside.
 


















Thanks guys, now to go look at Turdle's u-joint thread to figure this out.
 






I finally got the curage to take the doors off, man I forgot how much fun it was. Hopefully within the next few days there will be some tube type doors on, more like angle and square but still better than nothing.
exwithoutdoors.jpg
 






Been rocking the tube type doors for a few days, it is getting a little annoying with how many people ask where my doors are at or what happened to them.
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Well it has been quite a challenge to track down the correct shift linkage for my tcase from a 97 up F150.Next step was to try the dealer, how about $247 for all of the necessary parts, no way is it worth that much. So what did I do, the next best thing get linkage and shifter from a 96 F150 and guess what everthing works, the only modification required is to drill a new hole in the linkage shortening it up and cut off the excess past the new hole.

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This makes me kind of sad since the cool Ford floor mats will have to be trimmed.
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The shift nob, think its a little different than the shifter most use since you have to push down to go to nuetral then 4lo.
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Shortened linkage

This makes the only thing left to do before SMORR, is to get my skid plates put back on.
 












I love your rig!! Alot cause my DD is same color and all V8 and Love it!!!

Few questions, cause gonna do a few light mods to mine, with the 1in BL did you to re adjust the fan shroud at all? No issues with shifter tranny linkage? Bumpers raise fine correct, might have missed it but all stock body mount bolts work accept which 2?
Thanks for the info

Edit -also on the 110mm M12 metric bolts, I was told metric has 3 different thread pitches, do you know which one? My hardware place i Just calls carries them in the 1.75 thread pitch, which is simialar to course thread -and I think that will be correct but just trying to get everything lined up before I start.
 






I love your rig!! Alot cause my DD is same color and all V8 and Love it!!!

Few questions, cause gonna do a few light mods to mine, with the 1in BL did you to re adjust the fan shroud at all? No issues with shifter tranny linkage? Bumpers raise fine correct, might have missed it but all stock body mount bolts work accept which 2?
Thanks for the info

Edit -also on the 110mm M12 metric bolts, I was told metric has 3 different thread pitches, do you know which one? My hardware place i Just calls carries them in the 1.75 thread pitch, which is simialar to course thread -and I think that will be correct but just trying to get everything lined up before I start.

The fan shroud did not need to be adjusted, I can still slide my finger all the way around it so clearance is fine there.

The shifter linkage was fine for me I just dissconnected it when lifting and didn't run into any problems after.

The bumpers are close but there is stall a gap on the front one that I don't have much left of and in the rear I just have the flipped hitch so not sure if it will move up enough or not.

The two bolts that are two short are the ones that are the second from the back or under the rear seats. I believe the 1.75 pitch was right as it was the one's from the local ace and the threads matched the original bolts.

If you go through and break all the body bolts loose before hand it makes it much easier, it took around 2 hours to complete by myself, also if you go with the block form PA they are a little slow on shipping it took a couple weeks for them to get here.
 






Time for a little update, finally got around to herculining the interior and redoing my armrest with new vinal. Decided to put the rear bumper back on, buy a different front bumper and put the running boards back on. The reason for all of this to possibly sell the Explorer, main reason costing me way too much in gas (close to $400 in the last month) plus wheeling my dd is not going to last long since it has to get me back and forth to school.

herc
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arm rest
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Looks much better with the bumper. Notice any less road noise or more with the herc on instead of having the carpet and insulation?
 






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