Yet another..

[Josh P]

I have no experience with a volt meter or anything related to it. So I'm wondering if anyone out there could help me out. Trying to trouble shoot my 214 code. I have a Haynes manual but it's pretty vauge. To test the ckp it says to disconnect, turn key on and test for voltage of 1.5. I did this by touching my positive probe to the connector and the ground probe to the frame. Then it say to check connector while turning the engine over and turning your voltmeter to ac and check for pulsing voltage as you crank the engine

How do you do this if the connector is hooked up? Do I back probe the positive into either wire and the negative to the frame? When I tried that nothing happened. I dont know if I am doing this correctly.

When I tested the crank sync it had battery voltage but when I turned the engine over backprobed into the signal slot and negative on the ground in the engine bay the voltage jumped all over but was never 5 like the manual states....please help!!

I've been reading your other thread, not sure how much help I can be. Don't assume the replaced parts are good, new means untested. If the check engine light illuminates while cranking the engine, the crankshaft sensor is good. For the camshaft sensor, check the supply voltage at the connector. One lead of the volt meter on the connector and the other to ground. You should get battery voltage. If you trip the inertia switch, or kill the power to the fuel pump so the engine won't start, plug the ckp in and probe the wires on DC voltage, each time the sensor passes #1tdc you should see a read of about 5V. If these check out, I don't have a wiring diagram. If someone posts one I can help with chasing wires to test.

 

[PNWEx]

I've been reading your other thread, not sure how much help I can be. Don't assume the replaced parts are good, new means untested. If the check engine light illuminates while cranking the engine, the crankshaft sensor is good. For the camshaft sensor, check the supply voltage at the connector. One lead of the volt meter on the connector and the other to ground. You should get battery voltage. If you trip the inertia switch, or kill the power to the fuel pump so the engine won't start, plug the ckp in and probe the wires on DC voltage, each time the sensor passes #1tdc you should see a read of about 5V. If these check out, I don't have a wiring diagram. If someone posts one I can help with chasing wires to test.

Ok I'm pretty sure the cam is good then. When you say the CEL will come on when turning the engine over do you mean when I turn the key on because it does then goes back off and when you start it it stays off for a minute then turns on after about 90 seconds. But when the motor is cranking I dont believe it comes on. I'll check when I get home from work. Thank you for your help.

And if I'm coming off as an asshole I dont mean to just trying to figure this out. As I have stated I have 0 mechanic exp. When it comes to this. So trust me any help is appreciated.

And I cant take her out back and shoot her as I took a loan out to buy this after my truck was stolen. (Thanks PDX)

I'm a working man with two kids and a wife I cant afford to not have the truck.

 

[Josh P]

Everyone seems to think the signature quotes are for them, it isn't. They are great responses to questions or comments made

 

[Turdle]

When cranking cel should turn on if the "Crankshaft" sensor is working.

You are overthinking a common failure part, that seems by your testing to be unresponsive.

If a new one doesn't fix it check wiring.

It isn't even out of the question to try another one from a junkyard to save $$$.

Let me see if I have one laying around. In the meantime, a can of electrical parts cleaner might even fix the sensor. Grit on the mm magnetic tip could be the problem

 

[PNWEx]

When cranking cel should turn on if the "Crankshaft" sensor is working.

You are overthinking a common failure part, that seems by your testing to be unresponsive.

If a new one doesn't fix it check wiring.

It isn't even out of the question to try another one from a junkyard to save $$$.

Let me see if I have one laying around. In the meantime, a can of electrical parts cleaner might even fix the sensor. Grit on the mm magnetic tip could be the problem

I will grab some electronics cleaner and clean it up and see if that helps. I really appreciate all the knowledge you're sharing. And you're probably right, I tend to over think things especially when I barely have an idea of what I'm doing.

 

[PNWEx]

I also read in the manual that I can check the resistance on the icm terminal 5 and 6 and if there isn't 2000 to 3000 ohms then the ckp is bad. If I disconnect the ckp and test the sensor for resistance between the two prongs it should be an open circuit correct?

 

[Metalface]

Everyone seems to think the signature quotes are for them, it isn't. They are great responses to questions or comments made

Yeah, wtf is up with that. They're just quotes from other threads. That boggles my mind.

 

[DaSovietPotato]

Yeah, I usually use an analogue voltmeter when I test sensors since it reads almost instantaneously.

 

[Nadams01]

I also read in the manual that I can check the resistance on the icm terminal 5 and 6 and if there isn't 2000 to 3000 ohms then the ckp is bad. If I disconnect the ckp and test the sensor for resistance between the two prongs it should be an open circuit correct?

In that particular test your testing resistance from both of the wires that connect to the icm to the crank position sensor itself to ensure there is no open circuit, meaning no broken wires. You can test the resistance of the ckp itself I don't remember the specification. To add to the previous conversation the CEL will illuminate while cranking if a crank signal is not detected by the icm then pcm. Really you need an oscilloscope to properly test it but you can eyeball it with those tests.

 

[PNWEx]

In that particular test your testing resistance from both of the wires that connect to the icm to the crank position sensor itself to ensure there is no open circuit, meaning no broken wires. You can test the resistance of the ckp itself I don't remember the specification. To add to the previous conversation the CEL will illuminate while cranking if a crank signal is not detected by the icm then pcm. Really you need an oscilloscope to properly test it but you can eyeball it with those tests.

When I tested the resistance on the sensor itself it was a closed circuit
Shouldn't it be open?

 

[Nadams01]

When I tested the resistance on the sensor itself it was a closed circuit
Shouldn't it be open?

No, the sensor itself should measure around 1.6 ohms i think or 1.6k ohms I don't remember. Along as the multimeter doesn't read OL or out of limits your good! It is completing a circuit

 

[PNWEx]

No, the sensor itself should measure around 1.6 ohms i think or 1.6k ohms I don't remember. Along as the multimeter doesn't read OL or out of limits your good! It is completing a circuit

When I test the connector it gets 1.5 volts as it should but the sensor itself when I touch the probes to the prongs in the sensor its closed. It won't have voltage with no power.

 

[PNWEx]

The CEL doesn't illuminate while cranking so I'm gonna replace the sensor. But if it wasnt getting a crank signal how does the truck start?

There would be continuity between the two prongs of the sensor correct?

 

[Josh P]

The CEL doesn't illuminate while cranking so I'm gonna replace the sensor. But if it wasnt getting a crank signal how does the truck start?

There would be continuity between the two prongs of the sensor correct?

Just to verify, it doesn't illuminate while cranking but does come on while running?

 

[PNWEx]

Yes. If turn the key on it lights up once I start to crank the engine it goes off but all the other lights come on until it cranks. The truck cranks fine and then 90 seconds later the cel comes back on and the truck bogs down to 500 rpms

 

[Turdle]

The moderator in me wants to merge this with prior thread, because the other thread dead ends for someone searching this issue.

 

[Josh P]

The moderator in me wants to merge this with prior thread, because the other thread dead ends for someone searching this issue.

They need to be merged, I'm already wondering about somethings that were discussed in the other thread

 

[Josh P]

Yes. If turn the key on it lights up once I start to crank the engine it goes off but all the other lights come on until it cranks. The truck cranks fine and then 90 seconds later the cel comes back on and the truck bogs down to 500 rpms

If replacing the sensor doesn't cure the issue, next step is to use the multi meter to verify wiring.

 

[Turdle]

If replacing the sensor doesn't cure the issue, next step is to use the multi meter to verify wiring.

Ah geez,


Edit. Threads merged.

 

[PNWEx]

So the truck will start with a bad crank sensor?