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Solved Your Stock Auto/Manual hub info - Ranger / 91-94 X
- Thread starter Tbars4
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Prefix for threads that contain problems that have been resolved, and there is an answer within the thread.
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bigblockford
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jeep rear locking hubs
just curious about the 60163 hub it's for a J**P rear axle... what is the reason of a locking hub on the rear of a vehicle for ???its new to me and what year jeep an make would they be on ? and will they work on the front of a 92 explorer? thanks
just curious about the 60163 hub it's for a J**P rear axle... what is the reason of a locking hub on the rear of a vehicle for ???its new to me and what year jeep an make would they be on ? and will they work on the front of a 92 explorer? thanks
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...I can't answer your jeep questions...
...But, this is a known hub that works on all Dana 35 axles and yes, it will work on your 92 X as several people use them as an upgrade to the stock hub...
...I personally do not use them as I prefer that my hub is the weakest link and is easier to replace on trail than u-joint's or axle shafts... That is just my thinking though...:scratch:

...I personally do not use them as I prefer that my hub is the weakest link and is easier to replace on trail than u-joint's or axle shafts... That is just my thinking though...:scratch:
scrogginsjoe
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i just snagged some manaul hubs off a ranger in the scrap yard with the spindle nuts and all that im puttin on my explorer tommrow the should work right
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they MIGHT work, Rangers had D28 and D35 TTB's your Ex has d35 ttb only
The reason there is a hub on the back of a Jeep axle is because it is a super 35 full floater kit, it converts the weak Jeep Dana 35 axle to a stronger full floater setup, and having rear hubs is cool! with lockers you can have 1 wheel drive at any corner you choose....... having a weak dana 35 rear axle, is not cool however
but at least we get a stronger hub out of the deal!
The reason there is a hub on the back of a Jeep axle is because it is a super 35 full floater kit, it converts the weak Jeep Dana 35 axle to a stronger full floater setup, and having rear hubs is cool! with lockers you can have 1 wheel drive at any corner you choose....... having a weak dana 35 rear axle, is not cool however

scrogginsjoe
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i dont get theres a hub on the back do you have a pic and what year and make of jeep and can i find that in the scrap yard
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....The Rangers from 90 (most of them) thru 97 have the Dana 35 hubs you are seeking...
...I'm not sure what year jeeps run the Dana 35 lockouts, but post #1- #21 of this thread has info about them...

...I'm not sure what year jeeps run the Dana 35 lockouts, but post #1- #21 of this thread has info about them...
edlord
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Manual hubs sound like a ratchet.
I installed manual hubs on my 94 Explorer and they worked fine. Better than fine. Suddenly (withing a few weeks of installation) I get a ratcheting noise from the drivers side front wheel when the locks are in FREE. They still work and sound fine in LOCK. Any ideas on what this might be and can I drive it to my shop about 50 miles away from where I am?
I installed manual hubs on my 94 Explorer and they worked fine. Better than fine. Suddenly (withing a few weeks of installation) I get a ratcheting noise from the drivers side front wheel when the locks are in FREE. They still work and sound fine in LOCK. Any ideas on what this might be and can I drive it to my shop about 50 miles away from where I am?
bigblockford
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I installed manual hubs on my 94 Explorer and they worked fine. Better than fine. Suddenly (withing a few weeks of installation) I get a ratcheting noise from the drivers side front wheel when the locks are in FREE. They still work and sound fine in LOCK. Any ideas on what this might be and can I drive it to my shop about 50 miles away from where I am?
Any clicking or ratcheting noise from the front wheels) is a sign the automatic hubs are not locking.. An Easy test is to get under your truck and rotate the front axle shafts (not the drive shaft).. Rotating the axle shafts by hand mimics 4x4 being engaged. After a few revolutions an Autohub should lock in and be impossible to turn.. If you are able to keep turning the axle it indicates the hub is bad/gunked up. For manual hubs the test would be to get under the truck with the HUB unlocked (4x4 off) and verify the axle shaft rotates freely. Next lock the hub, the axle shaft should be impossible to turn. If you are able to turn the axle it indicates the hub is bad/gunked up.
Worn or heavily greased autohubs tend to buzz or chatter when going around corners (the hub mechanism is partially trying to engage). If you lock the hubs and the noise goes away then a good hub cleaning is in order.
fmsintx
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I found that those damaged O-Ring replacments are available from MOTION INDUSTRIES (205) 957-5138, for $2.02 for a pack of 4.
Really not painful and gets you back without all the silicon clean up each time they come off. Size is 3-1/2 inch ID by 3-3/4 inch OD, 1/8 inch dia rubber.
Really not painful and gets you back without all the silicon clean up each time they come off. Size is 3-1/2 inch ID by 3-3/4 inch OD, 1/8 inch dia rubber.
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I found that those damaged O-Ring replacments are available from MOTION INDUSTRIES (205) 957-5138, for $2.02 for a pack of 4.
Really not painful and gets you back without all the silicon clean up each time they come off. Size is 3-1/2 inch ID by 3-3/4 inch OD, 1/8 inch dia rubber.
Thanks for sharing the info!
swooper
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Any clicking or ratcheting noise from the front wheels) is a sign the automatic hubs are not locking.. An Easy test is to get under your truck and rotate the front axle shafts (not the drive shaft).. Rotating the axle shafts by hand mimics 4x4 being engaged. After a few revolutions an Autohub should lock in and be impossible to turn.. If you are able to keep turning the axle it indicates the hub is bad/gunked up. For manual hubs the test would be to get under the truck with the HUB unlocked (4x4 off) and verify the axle shaft rotates freely. Next lock the hub, the axle shaft should be impossible to turn. If you are able to turn the axle it indicates the hub is bad/gunked up.
Worn or heavily greased autohubs tend to buzz or chatter when going around corners (the hub mechanism is partially trying to engage). If you lock the hubs and the noise goes away then a good hub cleaning is in order.
I know this thread is old, but its very useful. I rotated my tires a few weeks ago and now I'm getting an intermittent buzzing or ratcheting noise described above. Its raining, so I haven't had a chance to inspect/clean my auto hubs. I'm also getting a clunking noise, mostly making a hard left turn. Could this be related to the hubs? (I replaced my radius arm bushings a few months ago)
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Check and clean your auto hubs. I had a previous explorer that did the same thing, one of the hubs was full of grease and worked fine after cleaning, the other was DOA.
swooper
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Check and clean your auto hubs. I had a previous explorer that did the same thing, one of the hubs was full of grease and worked fine after cleaning, the other was DOA.
Thanks. As soon as the rain lets up, I'll give them a good cleaning. Hopefully that will solve the problem.
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What noises, if any, are associated with manual hubs going out? I'm not hearing a ratcheting noise but did notice after I wheeled it kinda hard that I was getting a tick out of the drivers front wheel area. The noise was not affected by articulation, brakeing, turning, was constant for a few minutes while descending a steep rocky grade after I climbed up some loose rocks and had the wheels turned L to R quite a bit .
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...A bad inner bearing would also lead to a loose spindle nut...You may get a tick or a squeal...Look in your hub for shavings...This would lead to damaging a hub...
..After that, I'm not sure...Mine usally grenade before I have one fail...
..After that, I'm not sure...Mine usally grenade before I have one fail...

swooper
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Are there any good write-up for replacing auto-hubs on a first generation explorer? I've searched and found write-ups on second generation Explorers and on converting to manual hugs. Thanks.
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Skydiver
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swooper ,
Auto hub replacement is pretty much a no-brainer once you get your wheels off. Your auto-hub will slide right off. Then pop off the retainer ring. The cam assy slides right off along with several metal & plastic washers. Install the new parts in reverse.
((This is the extent of your auto-hub replacement))
After that, all that is left on your spindle is the small key, the spindle nut and all of the other stuff not associated with your auto-hub R&R.
((This is the perfect time to also inspect, grease, adjust or replace your wheel bearings too.))
Check out the exploded views in post #1.
If you have a jack, stand, flat screwdriver and tire iron you can do the R&R. No special tools needed and no technical knowledge needed for auto-hub R&R.
* Your auto hubs should have nothing more than a light coating of ATF fluid on them... no grease whatsoever.
EDIT :: Here are some links.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254
http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696
Auto hub replacement is pretty much a no-brainer once you get your wheels off. Your auto-hub will slide right off. Then pop off the retainer ring. The cam assy slides right off along with several metal & plastic washers. Install the new parts in reverse.
((This is the extent of your auto-hub replacement))
After that, all that is left on your spindle is the small key, the spindle nut and all of the other stuff not associated with your auto-hub R&R.
((This is the perfect time to also inspect, grease, adjust or replace your wheel bearings too.))
Check out the exploded views in post #1.
If you have a jack, stand, flat screwdriver and tire iron you can do the R&R. No special tools needed and no technical knowledge needed for auto-hub R&R.
* Your auto hubs should have nothing more than a light coating of ATF fluid on them... no grease whatsoever.
EDIT :: Here are some links.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218254
http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696
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