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Completed Project Turboexplorer's Full Width SAS Build Thread

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Hello everybody! It's time to start the SAS on my Explorer. It will be an awesome project and the first project of this type and size that I have ever undertaken. Up to this point the sliders where the hardest thing that I have made myself. I am open to any suggestions and or insights from anyone as the project gets underway. I have bought every last part for the build minus the hard brake lines (axles, and from master to the frame) and the flexible lines that go down to the axles. Those are all easy to make so I am not worried about it for now until I get the axles put together and can see what i want to do with those.

Now for a list of things I will be doing with the project:
1995 F-150 8.8 - I bought this used rear axle that I will strip, lock with a Detroit, convert to Explorer Disc brakes, and mount to the truck. Factory rear sway bar will be used. I will be doing a spring over conversion and will also be remaking the rear V8 anti axle wrap bars to help the leaf springs out with the leverage and TQ the V8 37's and 5.13's will put on them.
1976 F-150 HP Dana 44 - I bought this used axle and will be stripping it of the Ford factory wedges, trussing, and building custom glorified radius arms. Like DB_1 runs and like Rubicon Expresses makes. Front will also have a Detroit Truetrac LSD in it as well. This Dana 44 has 1/2" thick axle tubes.
Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs - I will be building shock hoops for these coil-overs, bracing them, and tying them together across the top of the engine with removable double lock tube clamps.
1995 F-150 Steering box - This will be mounted inside the frame rail and used with the factory PS pump and will build a custom steering link from the box to the column. I picked this 1 to keep it ALL Ford and 2 because they are fairly cheap and easy and can be tapped for hydro assist at some point if I want or need it. In order to fit this steering gear I also have to remote mount my oil filter so that it has room. I will be getting rid of the factory oil cooler and have a Trans Dapt remote filter relocation kit.

Project Parts Section:
-37X13.50 R17 Interco M-16's
-Fox 14" Remote reservoir coil-overs with Eibach Springs.
-Detroit Locker for the 8.8
-Detroit Truetrac for the Dana 44
-Yukon 5.13 gears for both front and rear.
-Both axles will receive ALL new bearings races and seals u-joints etc.
-All wheel studs front and rear and spindle studs have been replaced for safety reasons. To cheap not to.
-Already had EBC brakes on it so those pads on rear will be reused and new EBC 7000 series pads for the front have been purchased.
-New front rotors wheel bearings and new Spicer ball joints, going to reuse the warn locking hubs as they work great and are in good order and easily changed later if i wanted.
-1978 Ford T-Bird calipers have been bought in place of the factory F-150 ones. They are 17% bigger in piston size so will give me a little more brake up front to help stop those 37's.
-Trans Dapt Oil filter relocation Kit and addition mount to hook to the block at a 90*.
-Currie Johnny Joints and Rubicon Express Clevite bushings for the all the link ends.
-GM 1 ton tre's for the steering with a high angle tre at the pitman arm.
-Front axle truss. (wasn't impressed with it at all so will be making some changes)
-Extending current Expedition rear drive shaft and will have a custom double cardon one made for the front.
-Metal used: 2"X.250 wall DOM for lower links, 1 1/2"X.250 wall DOM used for upper links, 1 1/2"X.375 wall DOM used for trac bar, and ALL tabs and brackets will be made out of 1/4" Flat plate by me.
-Double lock tube clamps for the shock hoop cross brace that uses 2 3/8" bolts on each. These are so It can be removed.
-All Grade 8 hardware will be used.
-All flexible brake lines will be braided stainless steel Teflon lined hoses.

I like to follow others projects and often find myself wanting more pictures so bare with me there will be A LOT of pictures of the build. I hope you enjoy lots of pictures as much as I do.


First some pictures of what the truck was! Then onto some parts pictures. Build will start shortly.
1998 XLT Explorer. 5.0L with the 4R70W trans. I have the 4406 T-Case. 3.73 gears with rear LSD. Goodyear 31's. Rock sliders and front skid plate. Links to those builds are in my signature.

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And here is some video links! :) There are a few videos of me wheeling in CO with nssj2!

 



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.... but this is a great thread for those that will learn from your work here.

After it is finished, and taken to the trails, you will see what needs to be tweaked, and can make some final comments on what works, and why.

How many hours do you think you have in this build? :scratch:

I hope the thread will help others. I have posted a pretty good step by step build for this truck I think. Now that the 1st and 2nd gens are very cheap for a decent one, more people look like they can spend more on making the rig than buying it.

Yup I am sure I will find several things that could be tweaked some to make it better or smoother. I really hope to have it rolling by the end of next week, but that all depends on what time I am able to put into it.

I personally have about 220-250 hrs or so into the build. I had a few of my friends that helped as well and they both have probably about 40-50 hrs in it as well.
 



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Here is the steering stabilizer that I will be using. It will mount to the axle on top of the trac bar mount and then I have a clamp ring that will clamp to the tie rod and then have tabs welded to it so that it can hold the other side of the stabilizer. This way it can be loosened so that you can spin the tie rod to set the toe.

It is a FOX 2" emulsion shock for the rear of a J*** TJ. So I am using a rear j*** shock for the steering stabilizer for mine. :D Anyways almost all of the Nitrogen has been bled off and the shock was fully revalved super stiff. Scott at Dirt Fab did all that for me. This will allow me to adjust it if ever needed, rebuild able, and gives me more than enough throw for the steering swing.

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Here is the rear driveshaft for the rig. This thing is a MONSTER!!!!!!!! I did go with the CV style shaft. It should be smoother and run longer than a traditional single U joint shaft. Smooth and longevity are what I really want. Also this shaft is all 1350 parts :) This stuff is more or less diesel 1 ton stuff :D Again major overkill but unless I set the whole weight of the truck on the shaft itself this thing will never break!!!!

This shaft is 100% new parts! It was built by Curtis at Tattons Drivelines in Salt Lake city. This guy is amazing and super easy to work with also does it at a great price to. I paid $400 for this whole shaft with everything new painted balanced shipped to my door.

Curtis Tatton
West Valley City, Utah
Phone: (801) 685-0056

I have a picture somewhere on my phone with it next to a pop can and the pop can laid on its side is only has tall as half of the U joints. This thing is huge! Very very happy with it and the service and speed! If anyone gives him a call tell him Kyle with the CV explorer shaft sent you.
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Front and rear of the truck at full droop. Just before I set the full weight of the rig down. (P.S. I built the trac bar after I did this and the axle was taken off the supports)

See no trac bar. The triangulated upper links held the truck in place just fine without the trac bar.
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This is the ride height of the rig!!! I am SO happy I did all the research and spent the time and money to do this build right and professional. All the math and (guesses on corner weight) where dead on. When in full droop the springs still have tension on them from the adjusting rings and then when you set the weight of the rig on it the ride height is perfect!!!!!!!!!!! The springs should settle about a 1/2" or so in the front which will put the front a 1/2" lower than the rear measured from the top of the tire to the highest part of the curve of the fenders. Perfect. Also on a good note the weight was put on the shock hoops with no cross brace and neither one even budged at all!!! :)

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And for some more pictures of it at full droop. These are when I had to lift it and the instructors went over it with a fine tooth comb in order to see what I should get for a grade in the class and to judge the quality of the work. The tall screw jack in the front is just for support since the rig now has the radius arms in the way the lift pads are far enough back that it was fairly nose heavy so I stuck it there for some piece of mind for me. But yup here it is all done and ready to roll out the door. (Rear shocks, sway bar, finished steering components, etc aren't on yet, just wanted all the fab stuff done I could put all that on at home)

Me standing next to my rig. Gives better perspective to how big the truck is :)
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Rolling it out of the shop!!!!! The pictures everyone has been waiting to see.
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And here it is sitting in front of my 04' Taurus! :eek: When you sit in the Taurus all you see is the Ford emblem. But When I sat in the truck I did notice that I will have to be careful backing up and things because it is very tall and will be hard to see things that are even remotely close to the back of the truck. :eek: A good walk around before you drive away will be necessary.
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I dont even know what to say. Great quality build. You my friend have some mad crazy skills. AHMMMMM FAB SHOP COUGH COUGH..... Sorry. Anyways. Nice rig you ended up with there. From my point of view looks like you earned at least an "A".
 






That is awesome, it looks really good and the quality of work you have put in is great. I have a D44 out of a 76 Bronco to put in my Mounty if you want another project. Very good thread and thanks for all the pictures!!
 






great build. i have been following this for a while. looks very well thought out and done correctly.


so whats next for it?
 






AHMMMMM FAB SHOP COUGH COUGH..... Sorry. Anyways. Nice rig you ended up with there. From my point of view looks like you earned at least an "A".

I wish! That would be a fantastic job but I don't have any capital to start anything yet. I plan to do at least side work and work my way into my own equipment.

And yes I got a 100% in the class ;) I do really well in the grade side of things as well and then the shop side of the grade you can see in the pictures. :D

so whats next for it?

Get it drivable mainly. All the rear has left is the brake lines. The front I have to weld the steering box plate fully on, then make an intermediate shaft, then run the power steering lines, then front brake lines, then align it. Then I should be able to drive it.

After that I will have to load the front gears have the front driveshaft made and then I can wheel it :)
 






Any plans to build one of those 8.8 skid plates still?
 






Cant wait to see a vid of you driving this Monster. Probably my favorite build to date. Incredible job!!! That is One Awesome Stance it has. I am sure your side work will be steady!!!! Late sorry to hear about your place when you got there, that was pretty shady. Wish I was closer to ya, would love to drop off my Ex!!
 






Yep the move hasn't been what we where hoping for. The apartment thing and now my job is frustrating. No work and being on flat rate it kills my income. So frustrated that Ford said they where very busy and today I spent 4 hrs standing with no work to do.

Anyways enough with my woes.

Alright to catch up with what I did last week on the truck.
So here are some pictures with the rear shocks on the truck as well as the rear sway bar. :) The shocks are bilsteins 5100 series.
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Painted my front cross member.
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Painted my tie rod, my drag link, and all 4 steering joints, jam nuts, castle nuts.
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