Need opinions of 2001 5.0L Explorer

[Myasylum]

Hello,

My car just died and need a replacement quick.
I found a 2001 5.0L AWD XLT for $1,600.00

Has 164,000mi

Are these normally solid motors that can last 200,000mi? or are they troublesome?
I understand it depends on up keep and all that, but under normal circumstances?

He said there is a slight leak from the water pump which is new. the gasket was just damaged.
He just has been keeping an eye on it and filling it when low.

Any advice?

Thanks!

 

[H2opro]

I have a 98 mountaineer 5.0. I just put a driveshaft and a t case in it today at 250k. I bought the truck 5 years ago thinking I'd get 2 years at most out it. Well 150k later it has been the best vehicle I've ever owned. It burns a quart of oil every 3500 miles. Trans is original. I finally had to put money into it this year. Radiator, driveshaft and new t case. The ac still works to . I have 2 grand into buying at and the parts I just put in it. I would buy another one again.

 

[koda2000]

5.0L engines and transmissions are about as bullet-proof as you can get. 300,000 miles should not be a problem. Never had any real issues with our '00 Mountaineer AWD. Only thing I had to do was to rebuild the front driveshaft CV joint (not a big deal). Love the 5.0's. 150k is just broken in IMO. For $1600, buy it.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I've got one, 2000 2WD 5.0, just turned 277K, original motor, doesn't use but a quart or so every 5K miles, generally at 5K it's due for a quart to be added or the oil changed. I gave $200 for it with 256K on it, figured it'd last six months, now I'd cross the country in it. I did have to change the trans and converted it to a 2WD suspension since my transfer case died from abuse. That said, if the tires are kept matched, matching PSI and level with each other, I loved the AWD and it's pretty problem free.

A 5.0 Explorer with 164K I'd hop on, here they go for that with more miles within 48 hours. That truck should be set for years to come if cared for, which I'd believe it has been if he's had the water pump replaced versus just selling it with the original pump.

If this is any indication,I've got one I'm V8 swapping, am halfway done exactly, truck's donor has 131K on it if you go by transmission, I also bought a Mountaineer that's sat since 2011 and got it running and driving, all because it said 124K miles on the cluster, which is accurate.

 

[1998Exp]

Hello,

My car just died and need a replacement quick.
I found a 2001 5.0L AWD XLT for $1,600.00

Has 164,000mi

Are these normally solid motors that can last 200,000mi? or are they troublesome?
I understand it depends on up keep and all that, but under normal circumstances?

He said there is a slight leak from the water pump which is new. the gasket was just damaged.
He just has been keeping an eye on it and filling it when low.

Any advice?

Thanks!

As others already mentioned the 5.0L is as solid as they get. Its water pump can be a challenge to replace, because the bolts are often rusted and tend to break. If the pump was recently replaced and there is still a coolant leak, I'd guess it comes not from the pump but from the timing cover gasket. It's a tough job, but you may not have to do it -- Koda swears by a magic potion by the name of K-seal that he had used over and over again for minor leaks like that.
To avoid damage to the transfer case, make sure to have all four tires identical and identically worn. Check that the front driveshaft is in place. If it's been removed, the T.C. is damaged, probably due to mismatched tires.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I swear by K-Seal too, I had luck with a blown head gasket on a 4.0 SOHC, didn't even know it was blown when I put it in but it worked for 11K miles. I've run it in my 2000 to fix a thermostat housing leak because the new gasket was weeping coolant when I replaced it and that seemed easier. Worked great, no complaints. It DOES NOT clog the heater core either, which most stop leaks WILL DO.

 

[Myasylum]

Thanks guys!
Going to look at it today! I'll probably offer a bit less, hopefully he takes.
I guess its has a lot of front end work done too (tie rods ect…)
My Head gasket (I think) blew on my V-6 Mustang (White smoke everywhere) and I'm screwed. need something quick and a car I can trust.

Thanks!

 

[410Fortune]

2001 5.0 with 164K, I would buy it as soon as you can, try to get it for like $1300 or so
They are getting harder to find, anything around 150K miles I consider LOW MILES for a 5.0

 

[H2opro]

I would buy one again. If mine blew up tomorrow it wouldn't owe me a dime. Im waiting on the trans to take a dump. Hopefully it gets me threw winter and I'll fix it over the summer.

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’s very possible the timing cover is leaking, and not a gasket. When you disturb them getting the water pump out they can get tweaked and start leaking.


If it wasn’t rusty, I’d buy it.

 

[koda2000]

It’s very possible the timing cover is leaking, and not a gasket. When you disturb them getting the water pump out they can get tweaked and start leaking.


If it wasn’t rusty, I’d buy it.

K-Seal works great for the timing cover leaks in my experience.

 

[masospaghetti]

The water pump leak might end up being a fairly big job since you might have broken studs that are frozen into the block, and might have to take off the timing cover. Removing the timing cover requires lowering the oil pan which is a bear if it's AWD, and can cause the oil pan to leak...

I heard its possible to remove the timing cover without dropping the pan, but there was no friggin' way it would happen. Not even close. I actually broke my original timing cover trying to pry it out before I dropped the pan.

Other than a few tight access issues that result from stuffing a big motor in a small chassis, and the water pump issue noted above, I found my 96 5.0 to be an excellent vehicle. The 2001 models will be better in some ways and avoid one common issue of cracked exhaust manifolds in the older models. The fuel economy isn't going to be great but it's not as bad as the numbers might suggest.

 

[1998Exp]

The water pump leak might end up being a fairly big job since you might have broken studs that are frozen into the block, and might have to take off the timing cover. Removing the timing cover requires lowering the oil pan which is a bear if it's AWD, and can cause the oil pan to leak...
I heard its possible to remove the timing cover without dropping the pan, but there was no friggin' way it would happen. Not even close. I actually broke my original timing cover trying to pry it out before I dropped the pan.
...

I beg to differ on removing the timing cover. Indeed, if you go by the book, it requires dropping the pan, which in an AWD requires removing the front differential, etc., etc. In reality, it is absolutely possible to remove it with the pan in place. Resealing is tricky, because you need to seal both the gasket at the block and the rubber seal to the pan at the bottom, at the same time. Still, many on this forum, including yours truly, have done that successfully -- and posted hints about the process. If you broke the cover, you probably overlooked the bolts that attach it to the pan on the bottom.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

I would like to note that the later exhaust manifolds from 98-01 do crack, I've got a truck with one, got the manifold here too but I've put it off until the V8 swap on my other truck is done.

 

[imp]

Hello,


Any advice?

Thanks!

@Myasylum

As they mostly agreed, buy it before someone else does. The AWD transfer case is quite foolproof and simple. Test drive it looking for obvious things which could predict bad consequences: noise from rolling elements (wheel bearings), gear noise- howl or whine, watch tach carefully when shifts occur, looking for a long period between shift beginning and finish, tach should not jump up at all when shifting. imp

 

[koda2000]

OP - While the 5.0L can have broken bolts related to the W/P it is not always the case. It's also true that replacing the W/P can be a miserable job on the 5.0L everything else is very straight forward. Don't be put off by W/P issues (if present) they can be overcome. The fact that you're looking at an '01 and not a '95 should minimize these kinds of problems.

 

[410Fortune]

"In reality, it is absolutely possible to remove it with the pan in place"

Correct, I have replaced several 5.0 timing covers and gaskets in the vehicle
Use Felpro blue timing cover gasket kit
You can buy reman timing cover on Ebay for under $80, good to have on hand before you take your engine apart, often the timing cover will get *****ed up during the removal process

 

[imp]

"In reality, it is absolutely possible to remove it with the pan in place"

Correct, I have replaced several 5.0 timing covers and gaskets in the vehicle
Use Felpro blue timing cover gasket kit
You can buy reman timing cover on Ebay for under $80, good to have on hand before you take your engine apart, often the timing cover will get *****ed up during the removal process

@410Fortune
If I remember correctly, Ford Shop Manual listed loosening of the first several pan bolts back from the timing cover area, to secure relief from the clamping between the pan and cover. Then, upon replacing the cover it will more easily locate properly with respect to concentricity with the oil seal. Having globbed RTV Silicone at juncture of pan/cover parting line, whether or not pan gasket segment was replaced, tighten cover bolts to near spec, then tighten pan bolts, then cover to spec.

I have followed this method many times without a failed install. imp

 

[66427]

I was going to trade my '01 5.0 AWD in last summer on a new SHO Taurus but they only offered me $500.00 for it.

So I bought a new resistor for the blower control, and new windshield washer pump and last Friday it got new tires.
I drove it to work Monday, Tuesday, today....

As others have said, I would not hesitate to drive across the country in it tonight with 218k on it.

The best vehicle I have ever owned.

It will be my sons to drive next year when he turns 16, and my daughter is already looking forward to 2023 when it will become hers.

What it needs;
Headlights
Stereo
Seats (or a re upholstery)
Sunroof shade re upholstery

Wow, that's a short list of "needs".

Yeah, I would buy another in a heartbeat.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Seats would likely be much cheaper. I think my pick and pull sells them for $25. I’m waiting for a nice leather Mounty seat to make an office chair out of.