Adventure trailer build thread.

gmanpaint · December 14, 2018

Decided not to use the solid full divider wall between the interior compartments. I have a few items to stow, that are a smidge longer than the 4 foot rear space. So I made a wall for just the upper front shelf.

Using 1/8" Smooth expanded metal, it was cut to size, notched for wiring, acid etched primed, and 2 topcoats of black. Installed with self tapper's and stainless fender washers for easy removal. The light can shine thru better, can see the items from the rear door, and it is lighter than solid sheet of the same gauge using this metal. Bonus is being able to strap to it.

Installed the new fuse box cover, and decided to finish wrapping the 4 ga wires with flex conduit. I also wired the volt/Amp meter to the fuse box, instead of to the batteries, to get better readings while in use off of items using the control panel. Can't wait for the remainder of the items to be installed on that shelf, and use some of those empty fuse slots. lol

I had a new stretch net made for motorcycles, I was going to use on the inside of a side door, but chose to use it in the T-box. It will help keep items stored inside the storage space in front of the batteries, to help anything from bouncing up and onto the electronics shelf. Permanent mounts to the shelf hold one side, and hooks on the sides and front hold it tightly in place.

Test fit pic. Still need to adjust the hooks for best placement. This space will have many more items placed in it, and things won't bounce around as much when full. This should work as good as the metal hinge lid I was going to do for it.

This thing is a welcome distraction from life's problems, and even these little items are as fun to do as the bigger ones.

gmanpaint · December 14, 2018

Cold December rains with winds and 100% humidity that chills to the core. Blech.....

So I made a crockpot of my Famous Chili to warm me frigid bones after a day of work.

Got me thinking of that Movie Blazing Saddles, and that one line that still cracks me up to this very day......

Excuse me, while I whip this out.......

So while gorging and over filling my belly, I had an idea for the trailer. I quickly searched out the materials, and yep, had what I needed.

Out came the chop saw, the grinder, and the welder. Built in no time flat, and it just needs a few holes drilled, then ready for paint tomorrow. Will be able to install by the end of the weekend. I will just let you see what it actually is after it's installed.

Pardon the booger....

I'm a party animal, it's Friday night, and time for the fat couch and Netflix.

gmanpaint · December 16, 2018

Alright, so it's Sunday night, and I said I would post up what I started Friday by the end of the weekend. I didn't get done 100% as I am still waiting on paint to dry, on something I had to weld some bracing on.

But, I do have pictures of it installed before I took it apart. Will update this post when it is finished.

This is a fold down table, that is on the inside of the rear door.

A) You can never have enough table space when remote camping.
B) This can be used for brief lunch breaks, and the likes, when the main Kitchen doesn't need setup.

It is big enough to fit a 2 burner camp stove on. I will be adding a cutting board top to it, that is removable. Small LED lights might be added if I can find the right ones for it.

Installed and down for use. Looks low, but it is sitting at 36" countertop height.

It was a bit more engineering than expected, but it came out pretty good I think.

Had to make a catch for the fulcrum latch out of 1/8" flat stock, and shape it for the latch hook.
Fully aluminum hinged to the bracket mount I made the other day. Held on with 12 screws into the center door frame tubes.
Vinyl wrapped steel cables, with SS swivel posts to the upper mount and sides of the tables. Harder to do w/o turnbuckles, and the big cable crimper.

Cable side post at table

Added the sq tube to the front of the table because, the back end sticks out from the mount tube, and when folded, it sits flush now. Bonus edge stop!!

The latch catch I mentioned mocked up, before paint & edge cleanup.

Cable top post mount

That flat stock that the cable post is attached too, is the pc that got a gusset added, and currently being painted.

And the table folded up, and locked in place. This little fulcrum latch has provisions for a lock, but I will just use a hitch pin to lock it in place with.

When closed, it sticks out from the door a whopping 2". These fulcrum latches are awesome. When adjusted properly, they draw items tight, and rattle free. Handy little suckers to have around, as you never know when you might need one.

Edit:

Table build is finished. That's a wrap!!

Everything put back together, the wood butcher top & the cutting board installed. Extremely happy with the end results. This will come in very handy.

Table down

Table up & locked in place

Angle shot to show how little it extrudes from the door

Both the top and cutting board comes off with ease. Wing nut on a bolt clamps them onto both sides of the expanded metal. I just have to live with the bolt head when using them. Minor sacrifice for a rattle free, easy storage method.

Until next time, just remember...... ****** jokes aren't funny. Period. :nono:

gmanpaint · December 17, 2018

Anybody following this thread that has a recommendation, for a good mess free lubricant, for the scissor jack screw bolt / pivots, I would appreciate it.

Need to keep it lubed up as it is exposed to the elements, but I don't want something that will fling all over (fast turning action), or drip when hot.

traveler · December 17, 2018

Would it be possible to make/adapt a bellows to go over the screw? It'd help protect the screw from the elements and catch any lubricant that may fling off.

gmanpaint · December 17, 2018

traveler said:
Would it be possible to make/adapt a bellows to go over the screw? It'd help protect the screw from the elements and catch any lubricant that may fling off.

I don't see how, as it raises 10" and collapses to just a couple of inches closed. Anything in it would be crushed, and anything on the sides would hit the painted roof. Not a bad idea tho, if it didn't close so tight, it could work. Thanks for the thought!

So far, all I can think of is dry Teflon or graphite lubes for it. Most grease gets thin with heat, and will splatter or drip. Synthetic might work, but will also work like normal grease, and dust from trails will just stick to it pretty bad. I might try the dry Teflon if I can find it.

BKennedy · December 17, 2018

You could do like I do with my RV hydraulic jacks and spray them with silicone spray every few trips. Cleans off the dirt, protects them from the elements and lubes them at the same time.

gmanpaint · December 17, 2018

BKennedy said:
You could do like I do with my RV hydraulic jacks and spray them with silicone spray every few trips. Cleans off the dirt, protects them from the elements and lubes them at the same time.

If it doesn't let dirt/dust stick to it, I'm all in!

Thanks!

traveler · December 17, 2018

Look into high end lubes for bicycle chains. They are designed to keep the. Chain lubed without being nasty and collecting dirt.

gmanpaint · December 17, 2018

traveler said:
Look into high end lubes for bicycle chains. They are designed to keep the. Chain lubed without being nasty and collecting dirt.

I thought of oil staining my pants leg on my bike, as it was spun everywhere. I had no idea someone made an oil that clings to a chain. Learn something new everyday! Thanks!

Oh... I completed the table build, and updated the last table post, with finished pics.

traveler · December 17, 2018

If I remember right, we used to use a wax product on the chains to help keep dirt off. The Chain was dipped in this special wax and when it cooled it helped protect the chain. But it's been 25 years ago LoL

allmyEXes · December 18, 2018

Bacon grease...At least it would smell good .

JK
Actually Beeswax might work well !

gmanpaint · December 18, 2018

My gut tells me that wax will melt and make a mess, on a hot black roof in a desert, and grease & oils will drip/ fling all over. This is fine for under the rig, but not on the automotive painted rooftop.

The silicone in a drip bottle would work, but not the spray, as it will make a huge mess, and too time consuming to cover the trailer to use it.

Besides the roof jack, there is the leveling jacks underneath. They need lubricated as well, but are in the line of fire for trail debris....well, everything! .

I think I am going to try PTFE lube first. I haven't been able to find it locally, but the ole Amozonian gettin place has it.

https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-High-Performance-Drip/dp/B0122T3V0C

I can also use this PTFE on the Uni-Balls to keep the exposed parts protected, as it is made for high pressures & temps up to 500*. This reason seals the deal for me, on which to use.

If this stuff isn't sticky as said, I will use it on these. If not, the dry lube, 3 in One makes could work.

Turdle · December 18, 2018

I second the silicone spray suggestion. I use it on my yard spinner bearings. Someone told me to let it dry on for about 15 minutes before actually using and I think that might be a good tip.

Really like the flip flop kitchen counter.

timtimtimajim · December 18, 2018

I've had good luck with a thin coat of white lithium grease on scissor jacks

gmanpaint · December 18, 2018

I will use the silicone for the leveling jacks, as I already have a can of the CRC brand. Overspray isn't a concern with these. That 15 min wait tip is a good one! Thanks for those tips guys.

I am still going to try the PTFE stuff on the roof top jack tho. No mess, and been meaning to get it for the rigs Uni-Balls anyways.

More rambling thoughts...........

Speaking of flip flop, I have changed my mind (again) on the interior set up. Fridge is going in the front compartment, and sliding out the Dr side. The water holding tank is going on the front pass side, as the instant hot water heater will be on that side, and makes it convenient for water fill/vent/electrical hookups to the front of the cabin wall. The molded water tank can be strapped to the framing well in this location, and will have ample room for the pump as well.

This leaves the rear fairly open for the Kitchen pull out, and the other half open for storage of large camp gear. Considering making a box 3'H x 1.5'Wx4'D, and with 3 shelves to store things neatly, and easier access. I'm hoping the kitchen and items stored help put some weight on the axle, and take some off the tongue from fridge and water tank. The T-box and spare are around 350 lbs right now, and the fridge and tank will add another 400 lbs give or take.

Thinking the water system needs to be built next.

gmanpaint · December 23, 2018

Square security Cog for Da Machine!

When unhitched, the 3 ft extension gets removed, and stored in the tow pig, and the box gets locked.

The tab on lock side, stops the lid from lifting, if someone goes thru the trouble of unscrewing the hinge. Have to break or cut the lock off. With the lock in the middle, a cut off wheel would be needed
Just another thing to slow them down, and make them work for it. The way I see it, the more deterrent there is, the more of a chance, it doesn't get stolen.

There are more things like this being done, but won't be shared, for obvious reasons.

gmanpaint · December 26, 2018

Took a couple tries, and what seems like months, but the Tongue box lid gas props are on and working.

First set were too long to work, and wouldn't let the lid close all the way. After failing the first go around, I figured out what size to order. Some of this stuff, is either getting harder for me to figure out, or it really is just a PITA sometimes. lol

Lid stops at 90* upright, and is exactly what I wanted.

They even have the Made in USA stamps on them.

If Apple made an Off road trailer....... Would it have Windows?

gmanpaint · January 1, 2019

No weekend updates. Broke a couple back teeth in half on Christmas dinner. Trying to get them taken care of this time of year is about impossible. Was up for 3 days, as raw nerves like constant attention, and do not like to sleep.

Hoping to have mah face back in working order soon, and resume work on this beast.

Happy New Years EF!!

toypaseo · January 1, 2019

On the "Square security Cog", any possible issues with those hinge screws rubbing through anything inside, or wires rubbing on the openings on both ends :dunno:

Adventure trailer build thread.

gmanpaint

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traveler

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Turdle

DIY stunt double

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Flunked daycare

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