setting No1 cylinder to TDC

[2002phil]

I need to replace my camshaft position sensor and the first think I need to do is set the piston in cylinder #1 to TDC. Is there a better way to do this then bumping the engine over? How do I know where TDC is, Is there a timing mark on the crank?

1996 explorer 2WD 5.0/V8

thanks,

 

[collisiontech]

no1 tdc

The way I find tdc is to remove at least no1 sparkplug(all would make it easyer)put a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt,put my finger over no1 sparkplug hole and rotate the motor by hand. When no1 just stops blowing air out stop. Thats tdc on the comp. stroke.

 

[Turdle]

The way I find tdc is to remove at least no1 sparkplug(all would make it easyer)put a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt,put my finger over no1 sparkplug hole and rotate the motor by hand. When no1 just stops blowing air out stop. Thats tdc on the comp. stroke.

I might just add, you will then see the timing marks and be very near tdc. Set the arrow at 0 at this point, rotating clockwise.

 

[collisiontech]

no1 tdc

YES,forgot to mention that,thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

don't release the clamp bolt

You can change the camshaft position sensor (CMP) without removing the drive. If you remove the drive then you have to retime the sensor. Do you just need to replace the sensor or the whole drive?

 

[gijoecam]

I might just add, you will then see the timing marks and be very near tdc. Set the arrow at 0 at this point, rotating clockwise.

Agreed, but just a note: You can't rely on the timing marks alone... You can be at TDC according to the marks, but actually be 360 degrees OFF TDC. You need to make sure you're on the compression stroke, either by visually seeing that the valves are closed, or by using you finger to feel the air being pushed out as CollisionTech mentioned.

 

[kstew]

I am replacing the camshaft position syncronizer and sensor on a 1998 explorer V8/5.0. Trying to get #1 cylinder to TDC. Where is the crank bolt located?

 

[xpolice-explorer]

I am replacing the camshaft position syncronizer and sensor on a 1998 explorer V8/5.0. Trying to get #1 cylinder to TDC. Where is the crank bolt located?

In the center of the harmonic balancer, recessed up in there a little. I think it's an 11/16 or 7/8 (can't remember) w/ a 3" ext.

 

[kstew]

Got it... thanks for the quick reply! Btw... it's 15/16.

 

[kstew]

I read somewhere that I should lubricate the syncronizer gear prior to installing. Would dipping the syncronizer gear in say 10w/30 motor oil do the trick or should I lubricate with something else?

 

[Digital Dad]

Got it... thanks for the quick reply! Btw... it's 15/16.

I am going to attempt this tomorrow, any advice on TDC or anything else?

UPDATE: Mine was a 24mm, 15/16" was too loose.

 

[atxjax]

I am going to attempt this tomorrow, any advice on TDC or anything else?

Did you get er done? I need to do this also on a 97 Mountaineer. Kind of scared to do it myself.

 

[Digital Dad]

Did you get er done? I need to do this also on a 97 Mountaineer. Kind of scared to do it myself.

I sure did, look at my post on 03-06-2015, 06:12 PM, Check Engine Light - Code P0340 & B1676 I posted pretty detailed instructions on how I did it. It wasn't as hard as I worried it would be, my only shock while doing it was having to take loose the coil pack bracket, none of the instructions or other posts mentioned having to do that but mine wouldn't come out without doing it. And if you have questions I can try my best to answer them.

 

[Michael808]

It is a must to remove coil packs with bracket attached also I had to remove throttle linkage bracket too or I couldn't get coil mounting bracket off

 

[lobo411]

Digital Dad, your other thread says that you replaced the synchro and the squeak did not go away. Did you ever figure out what was causing that?

 

[smegun]

Agreed, but just a note: You can't rely on the timing marks alone... You can be at TDC according to the marks, but actually be 360 degrees OFF TDC. You need to make sure you're on the compression stroke, either by visually seeing that the valves are closed, or by using you finger to feel the air being pushed out as CollisionTech mentioned.

trying to find TDC compression stroke to set the CMD looking at the valve train both rotations appear that the valves are closed what else can we tell by the valve train that TDC is proper for the CMD stab

 

[fastpakr]

If both valves are closed you're good.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

trying to find TDC compression stroke to set the CMD looking at the valve train both rotations appear that the valves are closed what else can we tell by the valve train that TDC is proper for the CMD stab

You can remove the cam sensor, and observe if the 'flag' on the syncro shaft is at or near the window in the housing itself. If so, it's on the compression stroke. If the flag is 180* opposite to the window, the crank needs to be turned one revolution to get on the compression stroke. (This assumes a running engine before sensor removal.)

 

[smegun]

there are two revolutions ...still don't have mine up ...but your turning the crank one revolution the exhaust valve doesn't move that is the compression stroke ….also could not stab the cmd syncro at tdc had to improvise with the window at ATDC then back probe hope it works