Oil Change Question

[dstewart51]

 

[blwnsmoke]

As a word of caution on oil usage....these engines are NOT like the ones we had before. After learning a bit more about the specifications, it is apparently very important to use the correct oil, which is SAE SN-PLUS rated, and should be the DEXOS-Gen-2. It is required to minimize the oil evaporation that travels through the PCV into the intake and coats the inlet valves, additionally and more importantly, it helps eliminate low speed pre-ignition (LSPI). So any old 5W-20 or 5W-30 should not be used that does not meet the SN Plus specification. I will be using the Amsoil Signature 5W-30 in mine once it turns 1,000 miles. No associated with Amsoil in any way, but can vouch for its engine protection capabilities through experience. Thanks /m

I did not know this, thank you for that info!

 

[peterk9]

As a word of caution on oil usage....these engines are NOT like the ones we had before. After learning a bit more about the specifications, it is apparently very important to use the correct oil, which is SAE SN-PLUS rated, and should be the DEXOS-Gen-2. It is required to minimize the oil evaporation that travels through the PCV into the intake and coats the inlet valves, additionally and more importantly, it helps eliminate low speed pre-ignition (LSPI). So any old 5W-20 or 5W-30 should not be used that does not meet the SN Plus specification. I will be using the Amsoil Signature 5W-30 in mine once it turns 1,000 miles. No associated with Amsoil in any way, but can vouch for its engine protection capabilities through experience. Thanks /m

Oil Specs are shown on page 384 of the Owner's Manual. It does not mention anything about DEXOS-Gen-2 anywhere.

Peter

 

[CDW6212R]

Oil Specs are shown on page 384 of the Owner's Manual. It does not mention anything about DEXOS-Gen-2 anywhere.

Peter

It's likely in a service bulletin etc, Ford is big on changes mid stream.

I just ordered 20 quarts of Amsoil ATF, I see from the various different new specs in the last 20 years, it's getting interesting to select ATF. I don't have problems given my 90's Fords, but the newer models you have to be much more careful in choosing.

 

[themishmosh]

Just did my oil change at 7000 mi and wanted to add a few more pics.

Drove up on ramps. The bottom cover can be pulled back after removing five fasteners (3 7mm bolts, 2 pop-in) and loosening two rectangular pop-in fasteners. I reused the yellow plastic oil drain but had one on hand in case i broke it. It is not very tightly screwed down so don't think you would break it with a set of pliers. I used a 27mm socket to loosen and tighten the filter housing in the engine bay. 3 O-rings need to be replaced and come with the filter (I used Motorcraft). 6 qts of oil exactly, verified with dipstick. The oil life is reset using the menu in the steering wheel. /settings/oil life.

 

[cpainter3]

Just did my oil change at 7000 mi and wanted to add a few more pics.

Drove up on ramps. The bottom cover can be pulled back after removing five fasteners (3 7mm bolts, 2 pop-in) and loosing two rectangular pop-in fasteners. I reused the yellow plastic oil drain but had one in hand in case i broke it. It is not very tightly screwed down so don't think you would break it with a set of pliers. I used a 27mm socket to loosen and tighten the filter housing in the engine bay. 3 O-rings need to be replaced and come with the filter (I used Motorcraft). 6 qts of oil exactly, verified with dipstick. The oil life is reset using the menu in the steering wheel. /settings/oil life.

Was this your first oil change? What was the oil life monitor showing at 7000 miles?

Thanks for the post. I’ll be doing the same pretty soon. Wiill occur in the next few months - winter. Yuck.

 

[themishmosh]

Was this your first oil change? What was the oil life monitor showing at 7000 miles?
.

Because this was the first oil change, I wanted to do it a little earlier--and not in the middle of winter. Oil life was a little above 30% so it probably would have indicated a need to change oil at 10,000 miles.

 

[AdrenalineJunky]

Changing my first break in oil at 2k miles.

 

[dstewart51]

My second oil change is coming up, used Mobil 1 Advanced Full Syn for the first oil change, going to switch to Mobil 1 Annual for the next change. Only since I found 5qt jugs for $30 delivered to my home . Not that I will try to run this oil for anywhere near the 20K, I will likely keep my 5-8k OCI.

Edit: just in case anyone is interested, here is some geeky engineering info on the Mobil 1 Annual oil.



I also requested a sample kit from Blackstone Labs, I'm going to have my oil analyzed and see what the difference is between M1 Advanced and then the M1 Annual after the same mileage.

 

[blwnsmoke]

What size socket do you need for the oil filter? Of course I dont have the right size.

 

[blwnsmoke]

Look up.. lol, forgot to attach your name.

@dstewart51

 

[dstewart51]

Look up.. lol, forgot to attach your name.

@dstewart51

27mm does the job

 

[s_harper]

Oil Specs are shown on page 384 of the Owner's Manual. It does not mention anything about DEXOS-Gen-2 anywhere.

Peter

Dexos is a spec required by GM so you won't see Ford recommend it. Some oil companies have a regular full syn and a dexos approved full syn while some just make their dexos approved product their full syn.

 

[blwnsmoke]

27mm does the job

Forgot to thank you for that. Ran out to pick one up and the change was a breeze.

Only thing I'd say is to stuff a paper towel on each side of the filter housing so when it drips, it drips on that and not down the engine.

Oh.. and what a PITA to get that upper tiny Oring off and new one back on.

 

[dstewart51]

Forgot to thank you for that. Ran out to pick one up and the change was a breeze.

Only thing I'd say is to stuff a paper towel on each side of the filter housing so when it drips, it drips on that and not down the engine.

Oh.. and what a PITA to get that upper tiny Oring off and new one back on.

You need this, makes o-ring removal easy;

Robot Check

 

[peterk9]

Hi,

Where is the oil filter located? Pics?

Thanks!

Welcome to the Forum.
Your thread was merged with this one. It should answer your question.

Peter

 

[themishmosh]

So, did my second oil change. This time I decided to do it with the vacuum extractor method. Put suction tube in engine dipstick, changed oil filter, and then refilled with the same 6 quarts of oil as my first oil change. Right at full line. Easy peasy.

I used an OEM Tools 9.5L capacity extractor, just FYI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N7X4TP9/?tag=serious-20

 

[Rossi6998]

So, did my second oil change. This time I decided to do it with the vacuum extractor method. Put suction tube in engine dipstick, changed oil filter, and then refilled with the same 6 quarts of oil as my first oil change. Right at full line. Easy peasy.

I used an OEM Tools 9.5L capacity extractor, just FYI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N7X4TP9/?tag=serious-20

I could be wrong, and I am not a mechanic, but I would think this method could leave foreign particles on the bottom of the oil pan. If you change the oil via the plug (usual way), the flow of the oil would probably help remove most particles. Just my opinion...

 

[peterk9]

I could be wrong, and I am not a mechanic, but I would think this method could leave foreign particles on the bottom of the oil pan. If you change the oil via the plug (usual way), the flow of the oil would probably help remove most particles. Just my opinion...

That seems to make sense to me.

Peter

 

[CDW6212R]

There should not be any significant material or sediment at the bottom of the pan at any given time. The oil is circulating fully during engine running, the filter should catch anything which could settle like that.

The biggest worry from sucking out oil should be the amount left behind, the volume of old oil. Some vehicles have oil coolers mounted remotely which have lines etc, that contain some oil after draining the pan. Any old oil left behind reduces the quality of the total oil volume when some new oil is added.

It's very minor, but the bottom line is how bad was the old oil? If it is black or thin or smells, if it would test as bad from an oil analysis, then it should be drained fully as much as possible. Used oil that is not really bad yet, which would test okay, having some of that left behind is no big deal.