Cold air box idea

[Scotts96sploder]

Yes, switched out the reservoir for that tall skinny one, and I’ll have a wash tank where the ABS currently is. Going to build a box to house the filter and seal it to the rest of the system, should end up about where it is now.

 

[WormsExplorer]

Nice cant wait to see it completed.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Update:
Moved the relay box in front of the overflow and routed the wire loom down the inner fender. The speed control box gets mounted above the blower motor. Still working with CAD getting a rough idea of where things will sit. I’m going to make a foam core mock up next with better fitment, and holes in the proper places. This box is a little harder than I anticipated, but I should be on to steel or aluminum by tonight.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Getting this top flat for a cover is going to be fun.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Time to go buy some metal!

 

[donalds]

I like it so far
Gonna make it water tight?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Yeah that’s the plan, I need to figure out a flange for the pipe through the fender and I was thinking of riveting the box together and using seam sealer. Just depends on what homeless deathspot has in stock, I cannot weld aluminum yet.

 

[donalds]

Lol flex tape lol

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Prefilter showed up!

 

[WormsExplorer]

That looks Nice

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Moving along! It’s hot today

 

[WormsExplorer]

Looks Good

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Almost done, just need to seal it to the fender and build a plexiglass lid!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Well it’s done! I might get in there and shorten the MAF wiring, and the lid is a little thin. The wiring can probably be left alone, you can barley see it. I wanted a 1/4” lid but I got this for free, it flexes when I rev the motor . I also wanted to use rivet nuts and 1/4x20 bolts to mount it, but I couldn’t find any... so I settled for these flanged screws.
What is awesome is I can tell the difference in throttle response over factory! I can’t give you numbers but I can feel the difference, probably something to do with the pipe not riding on the upper rad hose. ‍ I used 3” PVC which has an ID of 2.9” or something like that, I believe that’s actually less flow than factory, but it works better, not sure why.
Anyhoo, thanks for letting me share this adventure, and for the helpful tips along the way!

 

[Exploring XLT]

Looks great! Is the wrap on it purely for insulative purposes?

 

[BruceExploder]

Looks really good. I want to make box like that now!

 

[Scotts96sploder]

Yes the wrap is for insulation, I figure it works both ways lol. Thanks a bunch!

Sort of off topic question, I was playing around with the washer and I shorted the wiring rite at the pump. Now I don’t get power there after changing out the blown fuse. Am I missing anything or did I kill my new turn signal switch?

 

[Scotts96sploder]

And I swapped the relays, no change

 

[Mbrooks420]

If the lid is flexing I think you probably need more airflow in. I’d also guess that most of the perceived power addition is from the sound of an open intake.

 

[Scotts96sploder]

It could be a placebo I suppose, but it got quieter after making all this. It didn’t like to pull at low rpm before, now it’s better. There was an abrupt change in power right around 3k, now it’s smooth and the power steady increases. Idk I’m not using a machine it’s just feel.
I might try replacing all the pvc with actual pipe with a larger ID, but it’s working well for now.

Btw, I’m an idiot, when I shorted the wash pump I just looked for a blown fuse, changed #1 which was blown. Once I actually looked it up instead of poking at it with a stick, I checked #12 and that was the issue. Made a temp setup till I can find a cool container. The bung fits into a coke bottle just about prefect lol