Red Delta
Member
- Joined
- July 24, 2011
- Messages
- 23
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- SW Ontario
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 97 Sport
My clutch/brake pedals were very stiff. It was at the point where I had to pull the brake pedal back up with the top of my foot. I was able to pick up the whole new assembly from Ford for about $150 CAD.
After much searching, I couldn't really find a comprehensive guide to remove this from the truck so, I used the tried and true, trial and error, method.
I had removed all of the bolts and disconnected the brake and clutch master from the support but didn't have enough clearance to squeeze it out from the bottom. As I was pushing on the brake push rod, hoping it would move enough, the brake booster moved forward! Duh! I don't know how I didn't clue into the fact, that the bolts I had removed from under the dash, held the booster.
This was a blessing though. I decided it would be best to remove the booster and master assembly so I could gain unencumbered access to the clutch master, since I needed to pull that back some to get the pushrod out of the mount as well.
To finish this off, I will list the steps in the order that I wished I had done them. If someone reads this and says to themselves, the way I did it was so much easier, please, feel free to comment. I don't mind smacking my ample forehead in disgust with myself for not seeing the easy way.
*Warning* Be prepared to be sore the next day after spending an afternoon, learning the finer points of contortionisim.
Remove the center panel
Remove the knee panel and the metal bolster underneath.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pedal wiring.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pushrods.
Remove switch from clutch pushrod.
Disconnect wiring from master cylinder and vacuum hose from the booster.
Disconnect brake lines from master cylinder
Remove four nuts from pedal mount.
Remove booster/master assy.
Remove the bolts that hold the fuse block to the fender, move it over a bit.
Remove clutch master from fender and move it towards the firewall to give the master enough play to be pulled out from the firewall a bit.
Twist clutch master 45 degrees and pull it out as far as possible.
Remove top bolts on mount. This is where you might find yourself swearing a bit.
Remove clutch brake pedal assy.
This was definitely worth it. The clutch actuation feels so much better and the brakes don't stick anymore.
After much searching, I couldn't really find a comprehensive guide to remove this from the truck so, I used the tried and true, trial and error, method.
I had removed all of the bolts and disconnected the brake and clutch master from the support but didn't have enough clearance to squeeze it out from the bottom. As I was pushing on the brake push rod, hoping it would move enough, the brake booster moved forward! Duh! I don't know how I didn't clue into the fact, that the bolts I had removed from under the dash, held the booster.
This was a blessing though. I decided it would be best to remove the booster and master assembly so I could gain unencumbered access to the clutch master, since I needed to pull that back some to get the pushrod out of the mount as well.
To finish this off, I will list the steps in the order that I wished I had done them. If someone reads this and says to themselves, the way I did it was so much easier, please, feel free to comment. I don't mind smacking my ample forehead in disgust with myself for not seeing the easy way.
*Warning* Be prepared to be sore the next day after spending an afternoon, learning the finer points of contortionisim.
Remove the center panel
Remove the knee panel and the metal bolster underneath.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pedal wiring.
Disconnect the brake and clutch pushrods.
Remove switch from clutch pushrod.
Disconnect wiring from master cylinder and vacuum hose from the booster.
Disconnect brake lines from master cylinder
Remove four nuts from pedal mount.
Remove booster/master assy.
Remove the bolts that hold the fuse block to the fender, move it over a bit.
Remove clutch master from fender and move it towards the firewall to give the master enough play to be pulled out from the firewall a bit.
Twist clutch master 45 degrees and pull it out as far as possible.
Remove top bolts on mount. This is where you might find yourself swearing a bit.
Remove clutch brake pedal assy.
This was definitely worth it. The clutch actuation feels so much better and the brakes don't stick anymore.
