Matt's '92/'99 4X4 V8/4R70W swap!

[seth247]

more picsurz. with and without flash.

 

[WickedWindsor]

Lots of room for 1356 manual t-case, and it takes the stock Explorer VSS and speedo gear!

Cut an access for the stock rad cap and had to move the hood support over - no biggy

I use a mechanical fan behind the rad with a hacked up stock shroud to fit and a 16" electric pusher in front.

The stock rad is lower to fit under the top lip of rad support above. It is as close as I could get it against the lower part shown here

The stock shifter cable has an adjustment at the trans bracket which needed as slight adj but works perfectly with all indents. I left the indicator as is knowing I can't put it in the "1" POS. You could weld it but it just won't go there anyway!

 

[seth247]

Excelent thank you very much wicked.

By the way. When you say plenty of room for 1356 do you mean 4406?

 

[Spdrcer34]

Seth...

What are you going to do about Exhaust Headers?

As you know I am doing the same motor swap into my X....I think I started mine before you did....

I am making things a LITTLE more complicated though, as I am swapping to a 2nd Gen dash, HVAC box, and adding EATC...

I am stuck on the exhaust though....so far I'm going to try 94/95 GT40P headers

Ryan

 

[seth247]

You have to be careful about the drivers side header exit downangle. It has to be almost 80 degrees. Lookat the AA graders to see what I mean.

The pass side is much more lenient. Again see the Aa's but most mustang headers don't have a nearly steep enough angle. Since the engine is so low for them. All the mustang headers I looked at would exit right into the firewall/ brakebooster.

I'm gonna get some summit truck headers. Seems to have enough angle. And if not I'm only out like 130$. I've decided not to care if they are built for the "p" style or not.

Worst case I'll have to pull the exhaust to replace the plugs, and jury rig the spark plug boots to keep em away from the tubes. And heat shield em. Not to big a deal since I'll be using antisieze and stainless bolts.

Yes you started before me. I'm bien held up by rebuild and your vein held up by the firewall grafting.

I think well probly finish about the same time.

Oh by the way, I'm starting to have doubts about the motor mounts we both bought. But I guess well we when we get there.

 

[WickedWindsor]

Excelent thank you very much wicked.

By the way. When you say plenty of room for 1356 do you mean 4406?

Nope - 1356 -
It was offered in late 80's, early 90's F150s and Broncos. The F150s used a slip yoke for rear output and mine (from a Bronco) has fixed flange rear output.

For exhaust I had tried Mustang headers and made them work by cutting out some frame on passenger side and massaging a little frame from drivers side. After a year with this, I tried an F150 header setup from early 90's. The drivers side fit perfectly but the passenger side wanted to dump into the top of the frame (no massasing possible).

My newest exhaust is using '96 Explorer manifolds. Even with the 351, they fit perfectly. Yes, they don't flow great, but my truck hauls ass anytime and every time!

Keep in mind with your build that you want to lean toward a torquey setup over horsepower as your vehicle is much heavier than a car.

I used to have many Mustangs and tried different cams, heads, headers etc. If it's not for the track but for the street, you HAVE to stay conservative with performance parts or it will drive like $%#@.

Anything I can do to help with your project, let me know. It feels as if I've tried basically every combo possible with this motor swap.

Are you going to have someone custom make your exhaust? Start thinking about your front driveshaft too. You current one will be too short. I used ine from a '96 F150 w/4.6 and used a conversion ujoint up front.

John

 

[seth247]

ah so a 1356 will bolt up to a 4r70w? I was not aware of this tcase.

I'll be haveing my current exhaust adapted to the new engine. Hopfully it won't be too hard with an explorer y pipe.

So which would I want to have? The slip yoke or the flange?

 

[CDW6212R]

The BW4406 is a larger TC, and stronger. I think given your short 4dr. gas tank, you will have about 6" of space if you chose the shift motor(TOD) style of TC. The shift motor on the 95-01 trucks is right in the gas tank bracket.

Your plastic gas tank is 10" shorter than my steel tank. The differences in engine/frame locations won't make the 4406 not fit.

BTW, your short Explorer front dress will give you much more room than a long Mustang style water pump. Move the radiator as much forward as reasonable to do. That will give you plenty of room for any good fan.

 

[WickedWindsor]

ah so a 1356 will bolt up to a 4r70w? I was not aware of this tcase.

I'll be haveing my current exhaust adapted to the new engine. Hopfully it won't be too hard with an explorer y pipe.

So which would I want to have? The slip yoke or the flange?

It will probably be easier to find a 4406 nowadays, but good luck finding a manual shift unit, they were rare from the factory. The 1356 will be an easier find for a manual unit however. The 1356 is a wider unit so keep this in mnd. I fit mine in by moving the trans mount to the passenger side by exactly 7/8". The end of the tcase has 1/2" clearance to the frame rail. The 4406 may be stronger but the 1356 was used in everything from F150's, F350's to Bronco's (All fullsize pigs) and very rarely broken.

Basically, it may come down to availability for you.

Slip yoke is less desired but will work. The more droop you have in your axle, the more stress it puts on the output shaft with a slipyoke because the driveshaft wants to pull down on the output shaft rather than slide out. A flange is designed to stay put and have all movement through the slipjoint in your driveshaft=better choice for offroad.

Oh ya, it bolts up directly to the 4r70w with NO mods.

One note on the y-pipe situation. If you're using an oil pan other than the stock EX pan, the stock EX 5.0 y-pipe will not clear the rear left corner of the pan. I tried! I have a fox/Mustang double-hump oil pan and had to fab an exhaust myself. The 5.0 EX pan has an indent in the corner for the pipe.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, the Explorer oil pans are shaped wildly, to fit around the exhaust, differential, and frame.

The manual 4406's that everyone has used is coming from the pickup trucks and not the SUV's. The Explorer got the speed sensor changed on year before everything else. The speed sensor was moved after 1998 in them.

 

[seth247]

Ah ok. I think I'll still try for the 4406 since I've been calling around for them.

I was wondering why the oil pan was so bass ackwards.

Guess I'll just have to run headers only for a while.

By the way what's wrong with an electric shift?

 

[CDW6212R]

You are going to have more conversion trouble with the wiring than anything else. The electric shift TC would also be a lot of wiring for your older truck. The wiring is already in the later Explorer wiring harnesses, making it minor to do for those.

Most people like the manual shifting of the TC that so many have done. I just want the strength, with as little needed input from the driver.

Do you have a plan for the wiring yet? The drivetrain wiring is generally in the under hood harness, and some in the dash harness. Try to start with the wiring that requires less modification. The under hood harness is critical for the main power distribution box etc. You would do better by modifying the later 96-98 harness, and using as little of the 91-94 under hood harness. I know that that gets into the firewall connections, forcing most of the "splicing" there. The trick is to minimize how much cutting and splicing you have to have.

 

[seth247]

Oh man wiring is my speciality. No problems there.
I haven't looked up what all wires are to be connected from the 2" square body-to-ECM connector. The one I thought was the OBDII Diag port. Remember?

I Need to get out my manual and find out what wires those are. Then hook em up.

And decide weather I want to build a water/heat proof box to stick the computer in the engine bay or extend the harness like jaime did.

My only question is will the electric shift motor need a small module like the 1354 does?

Will I have to pull one from a junk? Can I hookup my stock 4x4/low range lights and buttons? I haven't looked up any of that stuff yet.

 

[410Fortune]

grab the OBD-II computer box from your donor, cut your cowl and install it so it clears the wipers

When I crushed my rolled 96 truck I finally took the computer box out of it, I should have just installed this in my 88 and skipped the computer extension, BUT I plan to mount my PCM up behind my custom dash in the cabin soon, so I went with the extension

I had a 1356 t case I was going to use in my 96 truck, but a 4406 with 0 miles fell in my lap also

dang I still did not measure the damn AA radiator...... I will tonight

 

[seth247]

No rush. I've decided on the 4.0 rad. But I am curious as to the demenbsions on that thing.


Question. Do all 4406s have the same bolt pattern? Regardless of Transmission? I found one for about300$ but he hasn't got back to me on what trans it came off of.

 

[410Fortune]

as far as I know the 4406 all have the same bolt pattern and input otherwise it would be like a 4407 or 4408 LOL

 

[CDW6212R]

The electric BW4406 would be very much like the BW4405 that is stock in the 95-01 V6 4WD models. They are controlled by the GEM, a 4WD module, a TOD module, and the wiring. The wiring is almost all there in the later trucks, so plugging in the modules and adding a couple of wires is minor for those.

If you want an electric shift TC, the wiring would be easier for the older transfer cases.

 

[seth247]

hhhmmm

Are the electric and manual cases the same design?

Just the electric has a motor and the manual has a cable?

 

[seth247]

Ok what the hell?

I can't get a consistent base circle measurement off of this comp cam. I take one on one exhaust lobe and I get 1.357. I measure the exhaust lobe next to it and get 1.344.

That's not me bein stupid with the callipers. That's a big friggin difference.

I'm not buying two different sets of pushrods and Mixing them up I'll send this thing back and get another one.

 

[Turdle]

Ok what the hell?

I can't get a consistent base circle measurement off of this comp cam. I take one on one exhaust lobe and I get 1.357. I measure the exhaust lobe next to it and get 1.344.

That's not me bein stupid with the callipers. That's a big friggin difference.

I'm not buying two different sets of pushrods and Mixing them up I'll send this thing back and get another one.

Wow--WTF?