Completed Project Kirby's Navajo Next Level

So I haven't been posting much or working on the Navajo. I have been wheeling some and dirtbiking alot and just not doing much new stuff to the truck. Anyway, I have been gathering parts and need to do some wrenching and take it to the next level. I did add a new door last night! The old one wouldn't roll up due to the new dents. Partly from Independance trail, partly from an encounter with a tree snow wheeling!

Here's the new parts going in:

1) 8.8 New Axle- The old one has some ghetto brackets and the pinion bearing is toast. I paid a guy to setup the gears and he must have set the pinion preload with an impact or something. I need to do something about this soon!

2) 8.8 Detroit EZ Locker Got it cheap

3) Dana 44 Detroit Electrac Its a gear driven posi until you push the button, then it is a spool. Got it Cheap

4) New Front Bumper. Got a Warn X8000I mounted up, now it needs some tube to keep the grill off the rocks!

5) Wristed Arm- Picked one up a guy built and didn't use for cheap. I need to redo the welds because I don't trust him.

Pics:
Parts:

Winch Mount ( I think I need to make a thread For this)

Side View

Top View

 

[RockRanger]

I replaced my mount with a stock one and I think it lasted about two runs. Built this one instead. Works way better. I did have to notch it a bit to fit around a support rib on the transmission.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217207&highlight=mount

 

[Kirby N.]

Wow. I am cutting this close. It is almost done. I drove it to work yesterday. I finished the crossmember on saturday (yeah, pretty much all day) then I mounted it up and it wasn't tucked high enough to clear the driveshaft! So then I spent some serious time on sunday modifying it to work with the driveshaft.

The handles are proving to be really hard to dial in correctly. I had them set up nicely, but then barely contacted my version 2 crossmember, so I had to redo them. Now I have the main case handle dialed in nicely, but the doubler handle is not being nice. I finally cut it between the bends and got some tubing to sleeve betweent the bends. Now I can fine tune the bends and how they are oriented between eachother. I am trying to get them to come up in the stock hole and it is pretty tight when the torque twist the drivetrain. Still waiting on the handles. Crazy ed had them overnighted so I should get them by tomorrow just in time!!

I will post pics as soon as I can. BAck to work! I have to put in a new track bar bushing and align the thing. Not to mention the rest of greasing and packing spare parts etc.! I still have 2 more nights after work, so hopefully it will work.

 

[Kirby N.]

Oh also, my speedo sensor where it enters the rear case is making contact on the gas tank and floor so I really need a different housing sensor deal where it goes in to the case. Any one know of one that is shorter or that turns or something??

Also anyone know what the wire plug in there is for? Is it for abs? Maybe one with out the abs would be shorter?

 

[410Fortune]

can you re-locate the speed sensor in the case? or clearance the gas tank?

The wires are for the computers VSS signal, its required for many reasons... the cable of course, just drives the speedometer

in 96 there is still a sensor, just like yours, only no cable
IN 98 they went to the VSS in the rear axle

You need that VSS signal to the computer..... the cable you could do away with and run an aftermarket electric speedometer

 

[slammer67]

on my 95 ranger, it looks the same as yours, but no cable. on the '90 1350 i used for doubler, it looks like yours with the cabe. both seem to be the same size.

From the pics on the last page it doesn't look like its hitting the floor. maybe some more massaging with the hammer. If it wasn't hitting the floor, it looks like you could raise it up just a hair to clear the gas tank.

It would be nice to see some kind of rear mount on your doubler, everythings so tight in there if you had much twist to the driveline, you'll probably break that speed senser.

On mine I made a rear mount using the bracket for the balancer, i even used the rubber bushing that's in between the two round balancer pieces. Maybe not the best mount, but i was hoping it would keep things from twisting. there's alot of torque on that driveline when you're in low-low.

 

[BKennedy]

My driveline is different than yours, but I had to build a anti-torque bar because my NP231 was twisting and hitting the transmission hump, which was about two inches away. It twisted so much it losened the bolts that mount the adapter to the transmission and ripped them out of the housing.
A picture of it on a post down towards the bottom past all the stupid bunnies.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228263
I imagine with a doubler, the torque would be much greater.

 

[Kirby N.]

can you re-locate the speed sensor in the case? or clearance the gas tank?

The wires are for the computers VSS signal, its required for many reasons... the cable of course, just drives the speedometer

in 96 there is still a sensor, just like yours, only no cable
IN 98 they went to the VSS in the rear axle

You need that VSS signal to the computer..... the cable you could do away with and run an aftermarket electric speedometer

I knew you would know! Hmm. Would it be possible to use the VSS in my rear axle instead? How does an electric speedo work as far as sensors etc? Would I need to use a different guage?

 

[Kirby N.]

My driveline is different than yours, but I had to build a anti-torque bar because my NP231 was twisting and hitting the transmission hump, which was about two inches away. It twisted so much it losened the bolts that mount the adapter to the transmission and ripped them out of the housing.
A picture of it on a post down towards the bottom past all the stupid bunnies.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228263
I imagine with a doubler, the torque would be much greater.

Agree with you. The torque is hard on stuff, but the logic I have been subscribing to (before I heard your story of the bolts etc.) is that 3 mounts that have the same travel / travel path/ material is best to prevent binding on eachother and breaking the adapter between the tcase and tranny, which I have heard of in this setup. I have heard arguments for the tcase mount and against. What made me decide against was mostly that I cut the bosses off for the dapner and that there was plenty of people only running a tranny mount with no issues. Due to my space constraints I may need to come up with something! I like your toque arm. That looks like to gives it some travel, but not too much.

My VSS deal is making contact with the gas tank in reverse only. In forward it clears the floor I made sure of that when I clearanced the floor I could raise it a little maybe.... I will look into it tomorrow. I know that if I raise it too much I am going to have other issues. I lowered the tranny mount around 1" on the passenger side due to the design on my crossmember. I could raise it up half that possibly...


Bottom line- I have 1 day to work on it so I have to come up with something!!

Thanks for the input! I might go to the junk yard tomorrow and see if an aerostar has a shorter VSS housing or something, although I doubt it and now I know I need the VSS anyway, so that probably is wishful. I need something with an elbow!

 

[FireZapper]

Do you use the cruise? If you can do without it, Plug it up and get a GPS unit for your MPH on the road.

 

[410Fortune]

without a VSS I believe you are hurting your performance, not just losing cruise and ABS

 

[Kirby N.]

OK, so I spent some time at Napa, Auto zone and Advanced Auto today! From what I gathered, the VSS runs the cruise, the ABS and maybe the shifting on the Auto tranny. So i need just a speedon input housing from a older ford with out the sensor built in. If only I had known thagt

I can do with out the cruise. It is nice but I prefer a non leaking rear case! Today I was doing wheel stands in my concrete drive way in double low. Thats cool. But in my jacking around I broke the sensor off completely!

I got my handles done. I am happy with them.

I am still concerned with the torque twist I am getting., It has to be hard on stuff. I will copy one of you who has built a bushing setup when I get back from Moab!

 

[Willard]

I can tell you that it should be alright without the VSS input. There was a little while when my speedo sensor was loose and it would wiggle to the point the speedo stopped working. When it did this the cruise and OD didn't work, and probably the ABS too, but besides that it ran fine otherwise. So you should be alright without the computer knowing how fast you are going.

 

[Kirby N.]

I think I am going to give it a shot- thanks willard. I would feel better if Jaime would chime in and tell me he thought it would be OK!!!

 

[Kirby N.]

crossmember version one

Crossmember Version 2

 

[Kirby N.]

Boots:

Shifters
Mid way (before I sleeved the bends)

 

[Kirby N.]

Final pics of the shift setup with knobs- no rubbing on torque! Lots of fine tuning to get it that way!

Double low:

Double high!:

 

[Kirby N.]

I am on the prowel for a nice piece of front carpet next time I hit the yard.

Oh, also, here is my VSS solution unless someone knows why I shouldn't do it this way. Temporary only of course!

 

[Kirby N.]

Moab in the morning!

 

[RockRanger]

Have fun wish I could make it out there. Might as well plan on toasting the stock trans while there. I really like how mine works. I would do it the excact same way again.

 

[james t]

without a VSS I believe you are hurting your performance, not just losing cruise and ABS

There shouldnt be anything in OBDI that would change engine management parameters with vehicle road speed.

I dont think? :scratch: