Oil Coolers

[2000StreetRod]

Last night I won the bid on the Auto Meter transmission oil temperature gauge. I'll reconfigure my plumbing at the inlet to the transmission oil remote filter for the sending unit. Later I might buy another sending unit and add it to the inlet to the engine full flow filter. I really like Al Franklin's way of mounting the gauge in a pillar pod and then installing a switch to select between engine and transmission oil temps. I prefer analog indicators over digital because rate of change is more obvious.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Mounted Engine Oil Cooler

My original design for the engine oil cooler mounting brackets did not work out so I cut off the upper part and added another piece. The new implementation will complicate the spacers for the ATF and engine full flow filter mounts that will be located over the new brackets. The photo below shows the brackets installed on the cooler.

I used external tooth lock washers under the screw heads to keep them from loosening due to vibration.
The photo below shows the engine oil cooler mounted in my Sport.

You can see the 7 holes drilled for mounting the 3 remote filters. The cooler fits within the recessed area of the air conditioning condenser enclosure but there is no fin to fin contact.

I have selected my mounting location for an oil accumulator (pre-luber). It is the passenger side forward section of where my side step mounting brackets used to attach. The area is fairly flat and rigid and 5 inches high by about 26 inches long. I chose this area instead of the outside of the frame tube to avoid the torsion bar adjuster cover bolts. Also, the accumulator will not be as vulnerable to frame type hydraulic lifts. I'm not looking forward to installing the remote oil filter block adapter and associated plumbing because of its proximity to the right exhaust down pipe connector!

 

[CDW6212R]

That looks good Dale. You should be happy to have the V6 to work on, the V8 filter is buried up next to the steering rack, AC compressor, sway bar, and the radiator hose. You have a good straight shot at your filter, LOL. Keep it up, you'll be done before I begin.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Transmission Oil Plumbing

Below is a photo of the transmission remote filter mount (3/8 inch ports) with fittings and spacers.

The spacers keep the mount from interfering with the lip above the mounting position. When I receive my transmission oil temperature sending unit, I'll replace the extender on the inlet port with a Street Tee.
Below is a photo of the installed remote filter with hoses and clamps. I'll replace the inexpensive filter with a quality filter after the leak test and the switch to synthetic ATF.

In the photo you can see the section of lip I removed (to the right of the filter mount) for the bypass engine oil filter mount. It was more work than it was worth so I came up with the spacer idea.
Below is a photo of the hoses and clamps connecting to the passenger side transmission oil cooler.

The coolers are connected in parallel to reduce restriction. The total length of hoses is identical for the two transmission coolers to prevent one from passing more oil than the other. Since I didn't end up using the original cooler mounting bracket, I wish now I had cut it off since it blocks some airflow.
Below is the photo of the hoses and clamps connecting to the driver side transmission oil cooler.

You can just barely see a short section of 3/4 inch diameter hose around the 3/8 inch hose where it contacts the air conditioning condenser fins. I did this wherever there was abrasive contact with the hoses.

 

[CDW6212R]

See if you can bend that cooler mounting flange down, pointing straight forward. It's aluminum, it should bend.

FYI, I hid my trans filter behind the bumper mount, I hope to place the bypass filter on the left side. Also note the yellow collars on the connections. Those are push lock fittings, the hoses don't ever come off. Actually to remove them you have to cut them off.

 

[2000StreetRod]

See if you can bend that cooler mounting flange down, pointing straight forward. It's aluminum, it should bend.

FYI, I hid my trans filter behind the bumper mount, I hope to place the bypass filter on the left side. Also note the yellow collars on the connections. Those are push lock fittings, the hoses don't ever come off. Actually to remove them you have to cut them off.

A couple of 5 inch diameter cut off disks in my drill eliminated the unwanted brackets in about 15 minutes. I still have to smooth the cuts with a grinding wheel.

Nice remote filter installation! I put mine where I did to help protect the lower engine cooler and to consolidate all of the oil related items.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Transmission Oil Routing Completed!

I replaced the extension on the transmission filter remote mount inlet with a street Tee and then added a reducer and the temperature sending unit. The final configuration is shown in the blurry photo below.

I enlarged an existing hole on the driver side to 7/8 inch diameter and inserted a grommet. I then routed the combined cooler outlet thru the grommet as shown below.

You can see in the photo that the stock cooler mounting bracket has been cut off.
I cut off the upper section of the transmission oil return tubing near the radiator cooler outlet. I flared the newly cut end and then attached the hose to it as shown below.

The hose/tube joint is secured to the air conditioning condenser line with cable ties.
Now I can start on the engine oil lines!

 

[2000StreetRod]

Trans In or Out?

The completion of my transmission oil routing seemed like an appropriate time to check for leaks and the function of my transmission temperature gauge. I temporarily wired up the gauge using a trickle battery charger as a power source as shown below.

The results were surprising and confusing. Even after the engine had idled in "D" for 30 minutes the gauge still read the minimum (less than 120 deg). I even ran it for several minutes at fast idle (1200 rpm) with my foot on the brake. I checked all of my connections, voltages and resistances and could find nothing in error. I became concerned that I may have connected my temperature sending unit to the transmission ATF return instead of the output. In searching this forum I found several threads indicating confusion over which line is which. I had based my initial connection planning on what seemed to be the consensus that the transmission output port is the upper port and the oil return is the lower port on the transmission case. However, most of the forum threads indicated that the flow was from the transmission to the radiator cooler and then (if present) to the auxiliary transmission cooler. My stock configuration was just the opposite. I decided to perform a flow test to be sure. I disconnected a hard line and its mating hose and routed their ports to available containers as shown below.

The first surprise was that oil flowed immediately upon starting the engine. I had read before that the 5R55E external oil path was thermostatically controlled and would not flow until the internal oil was warmed to operating temperature. The engine was cold and the outside morning temperature was about 65 degrees. The flow came from the tube that was connected to the transmission upper port.
Perhaps the 5R55E tries to warm the oil (using the radiator cooler) to operating temperature. Then while the oil is within operating range the external flow is cut off until the operating range is exceeded at which time external flow is resumed to try and cool the ATF. Since I am not using the radiator cooler for the transmission (I'm going to use it for the engine) that might explain why my cold start idle ATF temperatures are so much lower than Al Franklin's results. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=125508&highlight=cool+collar

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine Oil Remote Filter Mounts & Block Adapter

I decided not to worry about the transmission oil temperature until I can test drive the vehicle. The photo below shows the engine oil bypass filter mount (center) and the full flow filter mount (right).

You can see the temperature sending unit on the inlet of the full flow filter mount.
The photo below shows a test mockup of the engine block spin on adapter.

The hose barb on the left will connect to an Accusump that will be purchased in the future. For now I'll just route the hose line and cap the end. The fitting between the male Tee and the hose barb on the right is the Moroso check valve. At ignition ON it forces the Accusump to discharge oil to the engine and prevents flow to the coolers or remote filters. The block adapter has some internal metal burrs left from tapping the ports. I will have to use my Dremel to grind them down.

 

[Ranger379]

i was worried about my tranny temp gauge also when i first hooked it up. i would stay cold, even in town for quite a while, untill u get to a bunch of red lights and make a bunch of starts and stop. so i wouldnt be worried about that issue untill you test drive it. i might be asking you some questions about adaptors/hose sizes/ etc in the near future. hows progress going?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Progress Update

Thanks for the information Ranger379. Below is a photo of the combiner engine oil hose being routed thru an existing square hole I enlarged and fitted with a homemade grommet.

And in the photo below is shown the engine oil hose connected to the upper port of the radiator oil cooler.

I'm in the process of installing the engine block adapter. Progress was slowed today when I discovered the lower radiator hose is leaking and had to add a hose clamp in a very awkward location.
I'm not a fan of spring type hose clamps or teflon tape. I had two ATF leaks at the remote oil filter mount. The fittings I used thread sealer on did not leak. I've decided to redo all the teflon connections with thread sealer.
I'll be glad to answer any questions I can.

 

[Ranger379]

just a suggestion, as a few other people do, is use two hose clamps rather than one. my tranny cooler i used two clamps. my thoughts: if one comes loose u still have the other one to hold it. if ur going down the highway and a line blows off....well u get the idea lol.

 

[CDW6212R]

Avoid the normal barbed fittings, those require hose clamps. Try to use push-lok fittings, they don't require any hose clamps. They look like barbed ends, but the hose will not come off without cutting the hose. They are easily identified by the yellow plastic collar around each fitting. Regards,

 

[2000StreetRod]

Failed Leak Test!

I finished plumbing the engine block adapter as shown in the photo below.

The hose to the right will be routed to the location for the yet to be purchased Accusump. Because of its close proximity to the exhaust downpipe I will cover it with heat shield sleeving after successfully passing the leak test. I filled the oil filters with inexpensive (non-synthetic) oil and screwed them onto their mounts. Then I cranked the engine for a few seconds but not long enough to let it start. I checked for leaks and didn't see any but the oil pressure gauge had not yet read any pressure. I cranked the engine again long enough to let it start and it ran for about 5 seconds and then I shut it off. Still no reading on the oil pressure gauge. When I got out I heard liquid flowing and found a pool of oil under the radiator that had come from the hose connecting to the lower flare tube on the oil cooler. I covered the pool with newspapers to soak up the oil and quit for the day.

 

[2000StreetRod]

2nd Leak Test

I cleaned up the oil pool on the garage floor and tightened the hose clamp at the engine oil cooler flare tube which is smaller in diameter than the other 1/2 inch fittings. I started the engine and let it idle. After a few seconds the oil pressure gauge indicated midrange which was a relief! After the engine had warmed up I increased engine rpm in 500 rpm increments and then checked for leaks. At 1500 rpm I detected a hose leak at the flare tube mounted to the engine block adapter. I tightened the hose clamp and continued testing. At 3,000 rpm a leak developed at the hose connected to the lower port of the radiator oil cooler. Next I'll fix that leak and then reseal the ATF port connections with thread sealer and then retest.

 

[2000StreetRod]

ATF Leaks fixed!

I replumbed the pipe connections to the remote transmission oil filter mount with thread sealer instead of Teflon and now have no ATF leaks. I still have a slow engine oil leak at the radiator oil cooler lower port. I can't see if its the hose connection or the pipe connection but I tightened the hose clamp and it still leaks. The brass fitting is a right angle hose barb and I may not be able to turn it another 3/4 of a turn to point downward. I may add an extender to see if the bard ends up pointing down when tight. The photo below shows all of the filters (economy), coolers and plumbing.

I still have to cable tie the flexible oil hoses to the metal ATF lines.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, you can start to put the front parts back on then.

 

[coonerboy]

All of this makes me wonder if all of these filters, coolers, fittings, hoses, and adapters are worthwhile. You have certainly doubled the chances for a leak. All of this extra protection aint gonna do you a bit of good if you spring a leak, empty the contents of the tranny or engine and fry it.

Sorry to be a naysayer. I can see these components being very beneficial in severe use(heavy towing, extremely dusty conditions), but for a daily driver that you depend on to get from point A to point B it seems a bit to much.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Long Range Plan

All of this makes me wonder if all of these filters, coolers, fittings, hoses, and adapters are worthwhile. You have certainly doubled the chances for a leak. All of this extra protection aint gonna do you a bit of good if you spring a leak, empty the contents of the tranny or engine and fry it.

Sorry to be a naysayer. I can see these components being very beneficial in severe use(heavy towing, extremely dusty conditions), but for a daily driver that you depend on to get from point A to point B it seems a bit to much.

You have a valid point that was one of my concerns also. My Sport which I purchased in May of this year has over 150,000 miles on the odometer and I know absolutely nothing about how it was maintained. I purchased the vehicle to replace (downsize) my 1997 Tahoe and to use as a testbed for performance and economy technical ideas. I assume that both the engine and the transmission will have to be rebuilt in the next year or two. I plan to keep the vehicle for as long as I'm able to drive (I'm 63) and want it to last for 500,000 miles after the rebuild. Once I get all the initial leaks resolved my biggest concern will be deterioration of the O ring that seals the engine block adapter. By the way, that's the main reason to replace an oil filter every year or so even if the filter isn't dirty. I supplemented the block adapter O ring seal with gasket sealer in an attempt to avoid it leaking for many years. My oil hoses are rated at 300 psi but still not as reliable as metal tubing. I replaced the heater hoses on my 1970 Jeep Wagoneer with A/C hoses and they lasted for 24 years. As you said, the coolers/filters are not justifiable for the typical owner who sells the vehicle after 3 or 4 years.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Persistent Leak

I can't stop the leak at the lower port of the radiator oil cooler. I further tightened the right angle barb fitting and the hose clamp to it. The area still leaked at 4000 rpm. Part of the problem is that I couldn't tell if it was the hose or the fitting that was leaking. So I removed both and installed an extender fitting using thread sealer. Then the right angle with thread sealer and then the hose with clamp. The combination ended up pointing down (good) with everything tight. This time no leak until 5000 rpm and it appears to be at the radiator to extender connection. It's definitely oil instead of antifreeze so at least it's not the internal connection. I had problems with the same connection leaking ATF before when I was testing on the dyno. I may try something drastic like epoxy!