Oil Coolers

[CDW6212R]

I need to go through my SOHC chains and tensioners again, given the 150k mileage. It is a shame that Ford made it so complicated and "fragile."

You have a very good system as it is now.

I haven't begun to upgrade mine, and I wish the auxiliary oil pump I have was still available, or any information about out. Mallory obviously stopped making it ages ago, and I never did find any references to the part number, which I keep forgetting. I'd like to know if it will work as intended, and if another could be found. It was only about $120 when new, but that was so long ago, maybe 1990, I forgot.

Your system is about the best that can be done feasibly. I'm going to need an oil tap from the engine away from the oil pump and sensor port, to accurately trigger the auxiliary pump. I have added an SS line to the back of my 347 block, from an oil galley plug to the rear top block deck. I'm not positive that the fittings cannot leak, which is why that's not a simple reliable thing to do. You'd hate to install an engine, and discover a leak between the engine and trans. I was going to use a hard line, but later decided on a flexible line so that the ends could be swivel fittings, less likely to "wind up" when assembling it(tightening the fittings).

 

[2000StreetRod]

auxiliary pump purpose?

. . . I'm going to need an oil tap from the engine away from the oil pump and sensor port, to accurately trigger the auxiliary pump. I have added an SS line to the back of my 347 block, from an oil galley plug to the rear top block deck. I'm not positive that the fittings cannot leak, which is why that's not a simple reliable thing to do. You'd hate to install an engine, and discover a leak between the engine and trans. I was going to use a hard line, but later decided on a flexible line so that the ends could be swivel fittings, less likely to "wind up" when assembling it(tightening the fittings).

Is the main purpose of the 347 auxiliary pump to act as a backup in case the mechanical pump fails? If so, then you'll need a high capacity pump that can pressurize a system. R B Racing has a 25 psi and a 40 psi pump and TurboWerx sells a Base-Model Spartan Pump and the Exa-Pump that may be suitable.

 

[CDW6212R]

The idea is for pre-lubing the engine, but also to help if oil pressure did drop for any reason. If I can do what I thought of ages ago, starting it would be a process of turning the key to start, and holding it. The starter will not engage until the oil pressure comes up, and then it would kick in. That would make for an interesting deal every time, and it might deter a crook.

The Mallory 4030 pump(I think that's the number) is similar to their fuel pumps in shape. The instructions sounded like it would provide good volume for short term use, I don't think it's a constant duty motor.

 

[2000StreetRod]

more temperature data

Yesterday afternoon I had to drive across town to take my parrot to the vet for a beak and nails trim. It was a 35 minute drive with the last 10 minutes in heavy traffic and the ambient temperature was 84 degrees F. In stop and go traffic the engine oil temperature only climbed to 185 degrees and the ATF only reached 155 degrees. As soon as my Sport got moving both temperatures would drop. Under normal driving conditions in this climate I doubt an engine oil cooler is needed. It will be interesting to watch the temperatures during dyno testing.

 

[CDW6212R]

I agree Dale, I think an oil cooler is hardly needed for anything less than serious constant racing. I'm going to install the OEM oil cooler which is a minor unit, with coolant going through it at the filter adapter.

What ATF temps do you see normally, as an average so far? You routed the ATF back through the radiator again didn't you? I'd like to keep the ATF temps below 175 at the most hopefully, but how to do it without over cooling it is the only rub.

 

[2000StreetRod]

ATF temp

. . . What ATF temps do you see normally, as an average so far? You routed the ATF back through the radiator again didn't you? I'd like to keep the ATF temps below 175 at the most hopefully, but how to do it without over cooling it is the only rub.

ATF routing:
Trans > remote filter > radiator cooler > parallel auxiliary coolers > trans

It takes about 20 minutes of normal city driving before the ATF temp reaches 150 degrees. So far with the latest configuration the temp has not exceeded 160 degrees.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Disappointing inspection results

Seeking a break from my supercharger related engine wiring harness rework I decided to pull off a valve cover (easily done when most everything on top as been removed) and have a look. This is what the driver side looked like when I replaced the camshaft timing chain components at about 151K miles.

The owner who abandoned the vehicle on the freeway in North Carolina when it broke down lived for many years in Texas. I suspect the engine had a tendency to overheat since it only had a single row radiator and the thermostat was removed resulting in the accumulation of sludge.

This is what the passenger side looked like after multiple hours of cleaning with Gunk engine flush, a toothbrush and a squirt bottle.

For a year after that I flushed the engine and changed the oil and filter every 1,000 miles or so and added a bypass oil filter. Then I switched to full synthetic and changed the oil and filter every year (about 3,000 miles). This is what the driver side looks like now.

I'm disappointed that there is still accumulation on the camshaft and head surfaces. However, most of my driving is for short distances in town and the engine just gets barely warmed up. Also, up until recently the configuration of my engine oil coolers resulted in very low oil temperatures in winter. I now have a thermostat that prevents oil flow thru the single external engine oil cooler except when the temperature reaches 215 degrees F. I'll continue to change the oil and filter every year but resume flushing just before the change.

 

[2000StreetRod]

ATF oil cooler reconfiguration for intercooler

I reconfigured my external ATF oil coolers from two to one because I'm going to use the one on the driver side as a heat exchanger for my M90 supercharger intercooler (IC). The passenger side has less room because of the hood latch and that's the side for the stock configuration. If my added oil cooler on the passenger is too small acting as an IC heat exchanger I'll replace it with the largest heater core that will fit.

 

[Flash]

2. The 5R55E transmission has an internal thermistor that provides the PCM with transmission fluid temperature (TFT). The PCM uses the TFT to determine whether cold start shift schedule (quicker shifts) is necessary. The PCM also adjusts EPC pressure for TFT.

Do you know how, or if anyone, has fitted a switch here to get quicker shifting when at operating temperature?

I had a 1993 Australian Ford Falcon with a 4.0litre straight 6 and a FOAD transmission. The trans had a sport/economy switch that came in handy sometimes.
I'm wondering if that's what this is?

My BMW has one too but it's a 3 way switch that incorporates a manual shift.

 

[2000StreetRod]

sport/economy selector

I'm guessing the sport/economy selector output is connected directly to the PCM. When in sport the PCM alters the upshift/downshift engine speed and possibly the transmission line pressure. Playing with the TFT output to the PCM might have some effect but I probably wouldn't try it. I looked thru the calibration constants for my strategy and didn't find any that were TFT dependent (i.e. EPC vs TFT). However, that doesn't mean that TFT is not embedded in the PCM code. My post that you quoted was a note in my 2000 Explorer wiring diagrams.