Oil Coolers

[CDW6212R]

What sealant are you using Dale? Those are pipe threads and they aren't the easiest to get a good tight seal. Of course you cannot over tighten it because it's made of plastic there, but try another sealant. I have not noticed a difference between teflon tape and pipe thread sealant from a tube. They should work about the same, but some people say they have better luck with one than the other. FYI, there are other teflon tapes, including one for higher temps(home hot water). Did the threads on the fittings look okay, pipe thread fittings often have burrs etc.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Wrong Sealer

What sealant are you using Dale? Those are pipe threads and they aren't the easiest to get a good tight seal. Of course you cannot over tighten it because it's made of plastic there, but try another sealant. . .

Great tip Don! I'm embarrassed to admit that the tube of sealer I was using turned out to be gasket sealer. Yesterday I bought a tube of Permatex high temperature thread sealer and resealed the joints that would be hard to get to after putting the front end back together. I'm letting it cure for several days while I route the wiring for the two temperature senders, the 90mm MAF sensor amplifier and the newly planned oil pressure sender to the pillar pod location. I also installed about 20 inches of heat shield sheathing on the hose that goes near the passenger side downpipe and catalytic converter (see below).

I still have to cut two 1 3/4 inch diameter holes in the lower section of the air filter enclosure for my two new cold air intakes. I'm hoping for the next leak test on Friday using the stock 55mm MAF sensor.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Successful leak test!

High temperature thread sealer is vastly superior to gasket sealer on pipe fittings. This morning I ran my engine for 25 minutes starting at idle and increasing in 500 rpm increments all the way to 5500 rpm with no engine or transmission oil leaks. The ATF filter never got warm to the touch. Both full-flow engine oil filters got warm but not hot. Once the engine temperature warmed up the OEM gauge indicated normal no matter what the rpm. I don't know if the oil warmed up faster because of flowing thru the radiator oil cooler but I assume that it did.

I'm looking forward to my first test drive but I still have the pillar pod wiring to do (includes the A/F meter) and I have to install the front grille, bumper, etc. I decided not to paint the pillar pod which is black. My pod gauges are black, the instrument cluster, radio/heater control panel and steering wheel are black. I think it will all go well with the gray interior.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Reverse ATF flow confirmed

This morning I set up a test to determine for sure which port on the 5R55E is the output. I disconnected both ATF tubes at a convenient location and connected each to a drain hose going to a container as shown in the photo below. The engine was cold when started and ATF immediately flowed from both hoses.

However, after only a few seconds you can see that the container on the right contains almost twice as much ATF as the container on the left. The tube on the right is connected to the upper port of the 5R55E case. When I did my first flow test, I only disconected the hose on the left assuming that there would be flow only from one tube. Apparently the anti-drain back valve in the oil filter prevented flow from the actual outlet port. The check valve also explains why the filter housing never got warm to the touch even after 30 minutes of running the engine and why the ATF oil temperature gauge never read above its minimum. There was no flow!
I'm not going to replumb the filter mount and coolers because the way they are now reduces the length of hose and restrictions to flow. Instead, I plan to cut the ATF tubes where they are parallel as indicated in the photo below.

I'll flare the tubes ends if able. Then I'll use hose and clamps to connect the transmission side of tube A to the cooler side of tube B and the transmission side of tube B to the cooler side of tube A - thus achieving the desired flow direction to the input of the oil filter mount.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Plumbing Complete!

In the photo below the hoses that were inserted to change the flow of ATF to the remote oil filter mount are identified.

The photo below is looking down at the completed plumbing after repositioning some of the hoses to reduce interference with the grille.

The blue flexible conduit contains the wiring from the MAF sensor amplifier and the oil temperature sensors that is routed to the yet to be installed pillar pod.
The photo below is looking up at the completed oil coolers/filters with plumbing.

Heat shrink was applied to the oil temperature sending unit terminal connections to prevent corrosion from moisture.
The photo below shows the grille after trimming the back to eliminate interference with the repositioned and new ATF oil coolers and engine oil hose.

The modified oil management system passed a 5,000 rpm leak test with a quick rev to 6,000 rpm. Future oil related enhancements include installation of an engine oil pressure sending unit and an Accusump oil accumulator. But for now it's time to reassemble the front.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pillar pod assembly

The photo below shows the completed internal wiring and assembly of my multifuntion pillar pod assembly.

The left half is associated with oil and the right half is associated with richness. The connectors will allow for the installation/removal of the entire assembly.
In the photo below the switch identified on the left selects between displaying oil pressure and oil temperature. The switch identified on the right selects between displaying engine oil temperature and ATF temperature.

Next comes cutting holes in the pillar trim for the mating connectors and then running the lighting and ignition switched power wiring from the instrument cluster wire bundles that connect near the passenger kick-panel.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Installation almost complete!

The photo below is a bottom view of the coolers/remote filters prior to attaching the air deflector that mounts below the radiator.

There is enough room to replace the filters (even the larger bypass filter not yet installed) without removing the bumper. However, the air deflector will have to be removed for filter replacement. I may need to modify the air deflector for the engine oil return hose. The front of the vehicle is shown below.

In the future, I may add a screen to hide the components.
The photo below shows the completed installation of the pilar pod mounted multifunction oil temperature/pressure gauge.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice Dale.

Did that pillar pod fit that well to the pillar, or did you trim it some to make it fit that well? I have one also for trans temps and boost, and it will need to be painted to match the gray. I asked because I could easily live with it bolted on like you have it with the seam there. I thought they would have more gaps in them.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Pillar pod

. . .
Did that pillar pod fit that well to the pillar, or did you trim it some to make it fit that well? . . .

Its exactly as AutoMeter made it except for the holes I drilled in it. I made sure it was pressed tightly against the pillar trim when I drilled the mounting holes. In a few days I should have some driving temperature data to report.

In a few weeks I'll order the oil pressure sending unit and a Tee fitting and install them where the stock oil pressure switch is located. I have some catch up fall yard work to do the next few weeks.

 

[2000StreetRod]

First Short Drive

Below is a photo identifying the slots I had to cut in the air deflector for the engine oil return hose.

I drove a short distance to the grocery store and back (5 miles round trip). It was far enough for the engine coolant to reach normal operating temperature as indicated on the instrument cluster gauge. I didn't have my scanner attached so I don't know the actual temperature but I believe I have a 190 degree thermostat. During the entire trip the transmission temperature never increased above the gauge minimum reading (100 degrees). The engine oil temperature slowly increased until it was 155 degrees when I pulled into my driveway.

It is just as I suspected. The radiator "transmission oil cooler" in the stock configuration normally acts as a heater for short trips. With my configuration it helps the engine oil to reach optimum temperature (180 - 200 degrees). I may have to drive up the mountain to Hendersonville to get the transmission temperature above 100 degrees.

I recall reading somewhere that Mercon V ATF is a synthetic blend. It may not be worth the cost to swap it to full synthetic. I'm going to put 200 miles on my Sport and then swap the economy ATF filter with my new Mobil M1-301 filter. I don't plan to change my in-the-transmission filter (just a screen in my opinion) until the transmission needs to be rebuilt. I'll change the remote filter annually since the seal starts to deteriorate after that. I'll probably fill the replacement filter each time with full synthetic. I won't change all the ATF until transmission rebuild.

When I was under the engine I noticed a very slow leak that appears to be coming from the rear main seal. I added some gasket leak additive to the engine oil to see if it helps. Also after 200 miles I'll change the engine oil to full synthetic and install the AMSoil bypass filter and the Mobil M1-301 full flow filter. I'll also replace the rear differential fluid with full synthetic. I don't have a limited slip so I won't need the friction additive.

 

[2000StreetRod]

More temperature results

This morning my wife and I drove up the mountain 30+ miles from Greenville to Flat Rock, NC for lunch and back to Greenville after. The ambient temperature was about 50 degrees going up and 60 degrees coming back. Going up the engine oil temperature gradually increased to a maximum of 155 degrees. Coming back the engine oil temperature slowly decreased to 150 degrees. The ATF temperature was below 100 degrees for the entire trip and the ATF remote oil filter was cool to the touch. It looks like I'll have to wait until next summer to see a reading on the gauge above the minimum.

 

[CDW6212R]

I like it Dale, but you make me think the radiator cooler might really be a heater. Both of my trucks need cool ATF, so I am thinking about doing something different like that. I also just drained and changed some power steering fluid from my work truck. It was filthy considering it was all new 2.5 years ago. I need to add a filter for that, space is limited up front now. Keep going, I appreciate the temperature data.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Engine coolant temp

I like it Dale, but you make me think the radiator cooler might really be a heater. Both of my trucks need cool ATF, so I am thinking about doing something different like that. I also just drained and changed some power steering fluid from my work truck. It was filthy considering it was all new 2.5 years ago. I need to add a filter for that, space is limited up front now. Keep going, I appreciate the temperature data.

According to my scanner my engine coolant temperature started at 52 degrees and increased steadily for 366 seconds to 196 degrees when the thermostat opened. After that it varied down and up less and less until stabilizing at 190 degrees + or - 2 degrees. During this time the engine oil temperature increased to 155 degrees and stabilized. I don't have any radiator temperatures but the thermostat only stays open for 15 to 20 seconds at a time so the radiator temperature is considerably cooler than 190 degrees.

I would have problems finding room for another full-flow remote filter for the power steering! I wonder what the pressure is in the return line. That's a good idea about changing the fluid. There is no replacement interval listed in the Ford maintenance schedule. I'm going to follow your lead and replace my fluid but first I'll check on a possible in-line filter.

 

[CDW6212R]

I mention the PS filter because I long ago bought an inline filter to use for ATF. It was made for PS, but they(trans shop) said people very often installed those in ATF lines aftrer rebuilds.

I almost found time to pull my bumper to start my bypass filter mounting. I needed to vacuum the truck to ride a coworker around this week. I start a new route Saturday, so I may try to do the bypass before then, now that I have two cars drivable.

You and most people can do fine with just draining the PS every few years. My truck has been on my mail route for 2.5 years, and seen lots of turning compared to normal driving. I hope doing the fluid now will save the rack, I can change the fluid each year now that I know it's getting that dirty.

 

[Andrej Navara]

Hi there, on your last picture are two pipes, one next to battery and one with green cap and there is written hand tightening only. In black one is air, is it right so? I cant find it in my explorer manual.

 

[CDW6212R]

Say Dale, when you did your trans cooler work, did you notice the mounting of the AC condenser as well as the trans cooler? I recall how much I liked that AC mounting bracket of the V6. I'm considering trying to move the condenser outboard, and place the trans cooler there in it's place.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Too wide & too tall

If you're suggesting moving the A/C condenser forward, in my case its too wide and too tall to fit. Also, there is a rigid high pressure line from the A/C compressor discharge to the condenser on the left and another rigid line on the right that I believe goes to the accumulator/drier.

 

[CDW6212R]

I think you nailed it, which is why I asked. That's what I'd like to do, the AC needs to be in front. I figured you were much more clear on where the parts are, it's been five years since I worked on that in my SOHC truck.

I'm thinking of my V8 truck, but the condensers are similar in the layout of the lines etc. I have a cooler from a turbo diesel that's about the same size as the condenser. I haven't pulled the bumper yet to look it all over. Night,

 

[2000StreetRod]

Use of radiator oil cooler

After two years of using the radiator oil cooler to cool my engine oil instead of my ATF I have decided the factory configuration is superior. The engine oil temperature after flowing thru the radiator cooler is less than desirable for rapid warmup in winter and maximum performance year round. Also, it is a bad idea (especially in very cold climates) to utilize an engine oil cooler without thermostatic control. I have checked the temperature of the radiator on several occasions with my remote reading thermometer and found it to be below 150 degrees F. Data logs of engine coolant temperature with a 195 degree F thermostat support this since the thermostat appears to be open for short periods of time.

Even on cool days the ATF temperature exiting the 5R55E and into my remote oil filter exceeds 165 degrees F and on warm days reaches 180 degrees F in spite of my two external ATF coolers.

I have decided to reconfigure the coolers and engine oil filters. The engine oil full flow and bypass filters will be in parallel with their combined outputs going to a thermostat that prevents flow thru the external oil cooler when the oil temperature is below the thermostat setting. Unfortunately, this configuration will reduce the pressure difference across the bypass filter and reduce the flow thru it. Also, the full flow filter will no longer catch the larger particles flowing to the bypass filter reducing the life of the expensive filter. The remote ATF filters will remain in parallel with their combined output flowing thru the radiator oil cooler.

The goal is to maintain the ATF temperature as close to the internal 5R55E internal thermostat setting (150 deg F) as possible and to maintain the engine oil temperature around 215 degrees F as soon as possible. If the engine oil is above 212 degrees F then water vapor will boil out of the oil.
For reference below is a diagram of the current engine oil coolers/filters configuration.

Below is a diagram of the planned configuration.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's interesting Dale. You are actively trying to make the oils as clean as possible while maintaining the best temps. I think the ATF can be run at lower temps than generally possible, and the 215 degree mark is good for the oil.

The engine coolant is part of the whole system also, I'm planning to see if I can get that to run under 180, say 170, depending on how the heat is in Winter. The coolant should be the baseline for the rest.

The normal bypass filter system places them in parallel, check out any of the dual filter adapters made for them. The oil goes to one port of the adapter, and inside a passage leads to both. The restrictor still is in the bypass filter side.

BTW, the 302's have an oil cooler option which mounts to the block. That uses coolant hoses to cool the oil, and it likely wouldn't fit on the 4.0 block or the coolant lines wouldn't go there. It's good for the 302, but not much help for a V6.

Show me some pictures too as you make progress. Keep at it,