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Xeek's '91

my white 1991 explorer xlt 4wd. bought it 3/19/2010. first vehicle ive ever owned.


3.19.2010 - starting out
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need to fix these
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things ive done:

5.1.2010
new rearview
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new cupholder
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5.4.2010
new fogs
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5.7.2010
new grill
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5.8.2010
painted headlightdoors black
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the starter also went out on me. truck is down for now



5.10.2010
out starter out. thanks jd
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new starter
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installed
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5.13.2010
painted grille black
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5.14.2010
brush guard/bull bar, also removed the valance. makes it look higher without it
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5.17.2010
best addition ever, explorerforum plate frames and a sticker
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5.18.2010
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6.4.2010
clear turns/corners and amber bulbs
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6.17.2010
replaced drivers door handle
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6.22.2010
replaced engine coolant temperature sensor (cel)
replaced temperature sending unit so my guage works now (need it in this heat)



6.24.2010
new KKM intake
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8.19.2010
train horns and flowmaster 50 suv kit(sounds a little to low but i still like it)

exhaust
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train horns
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^left compresser - right air valve
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sound clip. does no justice, much better in person
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=DSCN1434.mp4



10.11.2010
cherrybomb glasspack 18"
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11.07.2010
loud rattle i was hearing? heat sheild on top of the 2nd cat came off and wedged itself from falling.

also took the glasspack off, no muffler. pipe stops right before it would be at
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4



11.14.2010
gave myself an oil change. mobil 1 synthetic, k&n filter



11.22.2010-11.23.2010
ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:
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and the painted area behine the grille:
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i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner



11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights.
took off the hitch that was attached the the bumper also.
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12.20.2010
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01.22.11 - clearance lights. LED, 13 per light, 65 total. very bright.
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3.27.2011
so after 3 months of the engine overhaul, its finally back in, finished, and fired up at 11.47pm! after fixing the inertia switch(oddly popped out), it fired right up, no problems!
link to build thread: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302553

video of its first start up




4.20.2011
2nd aux tranny cooler
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pcv filter.
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5.30.2011
'99 8.8, aussie, 3.73, soa
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9.4.11
non ac box conversion
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9.22.11
4" rough county lift and swap to 3.73 gears
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10.1.11
f150 tow hook
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10.9.11
15x8 creager soft 8s put on my 32x11.5 bfgs
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10.16.11
class V tow hitch
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12.31.11
drivers window motor damage. so nice to have a working window
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1.7.12
f150 seats to bring it to 5.5" lift
project #1 completed.
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4" + f150 seats + fa400 arm + unsettled suspension = this angle.
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1.7.12
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1.14.12
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yea. thanks.

well an update, remember the rattle noise i was talking about, thinking it may be the ac compressor? today i took the glasspack off so i can ride with no muffler for awhile, and i noticed the heat sheild on top on the 2nd cat was sitting there, sideways, half off. it was held up by the cats side and the frame, completely off. well i removed it completely and i havent heard my rattle anymore.
now it was sideways so it obviously wasnt doing its job much at all, so i doubt it being off will do anything


i made a video of having no muffler, truck is half warmed up
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4
 



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Might want to look at the lamp for your "check oil" warning light. On a 1st gen, that should come on when you get about two quarts low.
 


















got a cb radio from my grandpa. do i need any kind of fuse to wire it on the battery? i know nothing about cb's


11.22.2010-11.23.2010

ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:
130_0580.jpg



and the painted area behine the grille:
130_0579.jpg


i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner
 






...Do you have a part number and a price on the new MAF?
 






its a 70mm 94-95 Mustang GT Cobra maf. i paid $45 shipped for it.
it doesnt fit with the stock intake hose, i had to shove a rubber coupler into the intake hose and the other end into the maf. its only held in by the lack of movement.
it is a direct bolt-on to the stock explorer air filter tho
 


















^^ive gotta do that to my bumpers now. that looks good with all the black Xeek :thumbsup:
 












it does look good! just check out my junk for proof :p
 












If you do that, I'd suggest two things. Either swap to manual windows or make sure you buy one big connector for all your wires. Mine are individually connected so I have about a dozen wires to deal with on both doors every time I want to go doorless. It is a pain since there is hardly any room to get your hands in between the door and body.
 
























ive got a vaccum leak somewhere i think. i hear a air sucking sound. ill take a sound clip of it tomorrow to be sure. nothing is affected except it seems a little slower then it used to accelerating 35-75mph when merging on the interstate.

nothing new. i am ordering more stuff tomorrow tho
 



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so my 4x4 doesnt work. never did since i got it. i tested the module, it checked out ok. the buttons are ok. but when pressed the shift module doesnt do anything, so it cant be the case motor since it doesnt make it past the module.
so itd have to be the wiring from buttons to module right?
so will this method work to tell me if it works or not by by-passing it?:
diagram:
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at the shift module connector: splice a line into C5 GY wire, attach to a switch i have, ground the other end.
result in expecting: flip switch, shift motor engages, both dash 4x4 lights stay off since im spliced before it, 4x4 engages
 






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