Xeek's '91

[Xeek]

yea. thanks.

well an update, remember the rattle noise i was talking about, thinking it may be the ac compressor? today i took the glasspack off so i can ride with no muffler for awhile, and i noticed the heat sheild on top on the 2nd cat was sitting there, sideways, half off. it was held up by the cats side and the frame, completely off. well i removed it completely and i havent heard my rattle anymore.
now it was sideways so it obviously wasnt doing its job much at all, so i doubt it being off will do anything


i made a video of having no muffler, truck is half warmed up
http://s141.photobucket.com/albums/r44/xeeky/?action=view&current=nomuffler.mp4

 

[Xeek]

solved the oil pressure guage. i just finished an oil change, i only ended up with 1 1/4 qts of used oil out of 5 qts. my leak is worse then i thought

 

[Vargas]

Might want to look at the lamp for your "check oil" warning light. On a 1st gen, that should come on when you get about two quarts low.

 

[Xeek]

yea i knew it shouldve been on from being that low, but it wasnt. so im just gonna check the oil a lot more often now. i dont wanna mess with pulling the dash to look at the bulbs

 

[Foxracin]

My oil light comes on when its a quart low.

 

[Xeek]

got a cb radio from my grandpa. do i need any kind of fuse to wire it on the battery? i know nothing about cb's


11.22.2010-11.23.2010

ive always had a bogging/no get up and go on a cold start. so i went ahead and tried this: http://ford40.com/sputtering.shtml

left it to soak all night, dried today. there was some dirt/dust on the filaments. put it back in today along with a new maf from a cobra.
not only was there no more bogging when cold, i didnt have the slow response/bog related to having my battery unplugged and it relearning itself either.

i reccomend doing this if you have probs and notice the maf filaments are dirty.

the new maf sensor:

and the painted area behine the grille:

i will be painting the grille, bull bar, front bumper, rear bumper all with bedliner.
and at some point paint along the sides of the truck following the top of the bumper line in bed liner

 

[Tbars4]

...Do you have a part number and a price on the new MAF?

 

[Xeek]

its a 70mm 94-95 Mustang GT Cobra maf. i paid $45 shipped for it.
it doesnt fit with the stock intake hose, i had to shove a rubber coupler into the intake hose and the other end into the maf. its only held in by the lack of movement.
it is a direct bolt-on to the stock explorer air filter tho

 

[Xeek]

anyone see the benifit of something like this?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GT40...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f7207340



edit: adding another question here. how can i lower my idle speed park/D/N? i just wanna see what i can go down to for some chop

 

[Xeek]

11.24.2010-11.28.2010
bed lined front bumper, rear bumper+rear sides, grill, and re-added wal-mart lights

 

[red.EDDIE.4x4]

^^ive gotta do that to my bumpers now. that looks good with all the black Xeek

 

[Xeek]

yea im planning on doing the rockers(i think?), below the bumper strip on the sides of the truck. they line up with the bumper line, so i think itd look good going all the way around.

 

[Slowlyvverot]

it does look good! just check out my junk for proof

 

[Xeek]

yea it looks good. seeing your pic reminded me. summer project is to put the doors on bolts and add connectors for the wires so i can pop the doors off

 

[Slowlyvverot]

If you do that, I'd suggest two things. Either swap to manual windows or make sure you buy one big connector for all your wires. Mine are individually connected so I have about a dozen wires to deal with on both doors every time I want to go doorless. It is a pain since there is hardly any room to get your hands in between the door and body.

 

[Xeek]

^

and add connectors for the wires

 

[Xeek]

another part bought.
410

 

[Xeek]

just for the hell of it cause im bored
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYITaLuJpTM

 

[Xeek]

ive got a vaccum leak somewhere i think. i hear a air sucking sound. ill take a sound clip of it tomorrow to be sure. nothing is affected except it seems a little slower then it used to accelerating 35-75mph when merging on the interstate.

nothing new. i am ordering more stuff tomorrow tho

 

[Xeek]

so my 4x4 doesnt work. never did since i got it. i tested the module, it checked out ok. the buttons are ok. but when pressed the shift module doesnt do anything, so it cant be the case motor since it doesnt make it past the module.
so itd have to be the wiring from buttons to module right?
so will this method work to tell me if it works or not by by-passing it?:
diagram:

at the shift module connector: splice a line into C5 GY wire, attach to a switch i have, ground the other end.
result in expecting: flip switch, shift motor engages, both dash 4x4 lights stay off since im spliced before it, 4x4 engages