'99 ohv 4.0 cam build

Im new to the forum, wondering if anyone has any suggestions or advice. Goal is to cam it, head milling,porting and polishing, and a single 2.5inch exhaust with a good 87 octane tune. Motor has 153k on it. All stock car. Parts list so far:

Sealed Power ZH2244 roller lifters, $40 a piece
Comp 49-422-8 camshaft, $300

As you can tell I need some advice on rods, valve springs, rocker arms, and gaskets, or anything else

thanks

 

[Dono]

I struggled with my crank. Getting the bolt off was not easy for me. A big strap wrench finally held the crank/pulley in place to get the bolt out.

With the puller, you will probably need to use the air conditioning pump bolts. You will know what I mean.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

UPDATE, the crank is off along with timing chain. I did not use a strap wrench on the crank, I rolled the explorer to the garage wall with the trans in reverse and gave it hell. I would have used the e-brake to keep the crank from turning but that is also on my to-do list. Heads are off as well. This weekend I ported the new head, lower intake, and both exhaust manifolds. Here are a few pictures of the lower intake, forgot to get after pictures of the exhaust manifolds but Ill have them up sometime this week.

As you can tell I did not do that much work on the runners, I thought they looked very nice already.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

timing chain and sprocket

Ive been searching for a heavy duty timing chain and sprocket set but havent had any success. I was wondering that becasue of the heavier spring pressure. All the extra stress will be going through the chain and sprockets. Wont there be excessive wear since the chain is not designed for heavy springs? Any suggestions on a chain and sprocket set?

 

[Dono]

Not sure that its all that important.
When I pulled my original one off, It looked great. Even the tensioner had very little wear.
I was tempted to put the original back on, as I was starting to wonder about the quality of the new one I was installing (ebay).
I don't think you have to worry about a lot more stress on that chain/gears.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

ok Im encountering the same circumstances, my tensioner hardly shows any chain grooves in it and Im also concerned about the quality of aftermarket stuff. Ill go with a Motorcraft part. Thanks for the input, it really helps move things along

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

If anyone is curious, for the Comp 988 dual springs to fit the 4.0 ohv heads, I measured that:
-Cut spring seat .042"
-Cut valve guide .025"

unfortunately Comp Cam does not sell a seat cutter to machine the pocket for the 988 spring which has an outside diameter of 1.385". The closest cutter is 1.440" and Comp Cam specifies that there needs to be .0010" to .0012" pocket clearance. Also the they do not sell a cutter for the .475" ID valve guide. So unless these cutters surface, a machine shop is necessary. Knowing the dimension should really cut down on machine shop costs, as doing the actual cutting is very easy.

Here's my manifolds!

 

[Dono]

Wow! your digging right in to this. I love it!
Nice job on those exhaust ports. I don't see carbon sticking to those.
I can hardly wait to see how polished you get the exhaust ports on your heads.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Another little update: Heads are off, lifters out and cleaned, cam is out.To get the cam out I just swung the air conditioning condenser up since its conveniently not hard-lined. and slid the cam right out, didnt have to remove any part of the grill or bumper, just the radiator and flip up the condenser. Im currently cleaning the block surfaces. The pictures shown of the engine are right after I pulled the heads off. The pistons are pretty clean, all are shiny but two. The lifters all look great as does the stock cam. Ill try to keep the updates and pictures coming.

Finished Head: I didnt get the exhaust ports super shiny but I think they look pretty good.

 

[Dono]

Exhaust looks pretty good to me.
Remember, the big reason for going shiny on the exhaust is to stop carbon from sticking to the walls. Looks like you have done that.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Im still moving things along. Progress so far (with lots of help from dad on the trans)

-installed Sealed Power rockers
-Zoom clutch, Motorcraft throwout bearing and slave cylinder, turned the flywheel, bled the clutch and got the trans full of fluid and bolted up. The rear main seal looked pretty good, just some very slight leakage.
-polished up the throttle body
-cleaned up the rusty valve covers and t-stat housing pipe
-assembled lower intake
-installed lifters and Comp 422 cam

Not looking forward to setting the cam sensor, but here are a few pictures on the progress

 

[Dono]

Your almost done!
Are you doing your rear main seal? How does the bottom of those old rockers look?

 

[jd4242]

Lookn good

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

No I didnt do the rear main. It just looked damp and there was hardly any oil splatter inside the bell housing. The engine doesnt use any oil between changes either. I figure if it starts leaking Ill just pull the trans again and replace it, but I dont see it leaking anytime soon. About three of the rockers had little nicks and gouges where they ride on the valves. Although one had about 1/16" deep wear from the valve. These new rockers though are super hard, there is no way they will ever take to wear. I just picked up the timing sprockets and chain from Ford, and then picked up the heads. Now its just a matter of putting it all back together and getting the exhaust and tune.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Got the heads painted and assembled today

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Cam Position Sensor Question

I didnt mark anything before I took this dang thing out. If I can just figure out the position of this arm in relation to the body of the drive assembly I can follow the other steps to time it properly. I cant find any pictures of it at #1 piston tdc or even an underside picture of the alignment tool itself to see where the tool locates the arm. Does anyone know the position of this arm while #1 piston is tdc on compression stroke?

 

[Dono]

No, I don't have a pic.
I do have the tool though. I'm happy to lend it to you, but shipping (Time and price) can be painful across the border.

 

[Dono]

Looking at the pic, I think you have it bout right. Im not sure if the flag goes to the other side of the opening though. Maybe If I posted a pic of the tool?

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

Thanks for the offer Dono but I already figured it out. I went to the Ford dealer and surprisingly one of the technicians knew exactly what I was talking about and marked my sensor for me. The pictures here are of it installed at #1 piston tdc and pointing 60 degrees West of the bell housing. I got some assembly done today, too much to list actually. So here are some pictures. If anyone has any question so far I'd be happy to answer them.

I had to remove the fuel rail to get the lower manifold bolted on. One of the washers for manifold does not fit past a protrusion on the fuel rail.

pushrods in and rockers on

 

[jd4242]

Thanks for the offer Dono but I already figured it out. I went to the Ford dealer and surprisingly one of the technicians knew exactly what I was talking about and marked my sensor for me. The pictures here are of it installed at #1 piston tdc and pointing 60 degrees East of the bell housing. I got some assembly done today, too much to list actually. So here are some pictures. If anyone has any question so far I'd be happy to answer them.

I had to remove the fuel rail to get the lower manifold bolted on. One of the washers for manifold does not fit past a protrusion on the fuel rail.

pushrods in and rockers on

Hope you torq the heads and lower intake at the same time,it wont seat right if not someday, if not right away it will leak.

 

[QueenCitySleeper]

I sure did along with high temp silicon where needed. Took me the better part of 2 hours to get everything sitting the way I wanted and torqued down