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Betty's "I want to be a mule" progress log thread




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Whichever one gets in trouble that week. Smoked ribs? ;)
I think I saw the youngest girl steal a cookie once. I assume she has the newest bed? Smoked ribs are fine:D

Hey Jon! Did you do or undo the zip tie mod? It was hard to notice much of a difference on mine. But it would be hard to notice either way lol. Maybe I need to drive a stock truck sometime to notice.

I performed it because I was not getting full open throttle. Perform is a strong word for zipping a tie and cutting it but yeah--

Before the zip tie my scan gauge said TPS counts were 78% with the pedal on the floor. Now it says 96%. I could play with it for 4% more but why? She'll be good with what she gets.


:D

PS edit
I was very accustomed to the feel of the accelerator pedal, and noticed it now sits higher in the home position. In other words, taking up the slack will raise the pedal a tad. This changes the feel of off idle acceleration. Merely an observation of something to re flash into motor control.
 






The main reason for the front bumper was ease of mounting-dismounting a winch. I wanted to do a hidden winch, however, for as good as it looks, it is just as hard to get to for servicing.

It needed a rear bumper to match so what the heck.
After removing the stock plastic bumper the lack of radiator protection is apparent, and the plastic really does give a false sense of security to that area, so the skid plate is a must do.

The light location made sense to me, and is wired to the stock fog light switch. It is bright beyond description. I see signs illuminate 2 miles away.


My front bumper is half gone and I need to get a new one. I was looking at the custom bumper thread and came across your rig. I love it!

I am thinking about going with the same front bumper/skid plate but I wonder, does your mounty have the tow package? Does/Will the skid plate block too much air to the transmission cooler?

Love your truck!
 






My front bumper is half gone and I need to get a new one. I was looking at the custom bumper thread and came across your rig. I love it!

I am thinking about going with the same front bumper/skid plate but I wonder, does your mounty have the tow package? Does/Will the skid plate block too much air to the transmission cooler?

Love your truck!

My scan guage says no. There is still enough room to add a fan also.

Yes, it has the tow package.

Thanks for the compliment.
 






Hi Jon, how's it going? I've been "away" for a while myself, family illnesses and life etc.

I do have small news. You went from a black truck to a red/red model, and I'm now going the other way for a little while. I just bought a rough black 98 Limited, to replace my red Mounty.

I needed to find one without rust, and this one has none, but lots of work needed. I will eventually get it modified and have it look like the Mountaineer though, red on red too.;)
 






Since my Son is hanging out here today we decided to strip down a recently acquired, used front axle-diff.

The seals and driver side bearing came out ok, but we cannot seem to get enough grip on the Torrington bearing in the passenger side tube. The fingers on my slide hammer are not sharp enough to get in behind it good. We can snag it but the fungers come out by the second whack, I do not think the bearing has even moved. Does anyone have an idea for removing this?

Oh, by the way, Rockauto dot com is incorrect in their listing. The front axle bearings are not the same side to side. I used them for reference but ordered from Amazon. Amazon said the bearing for the right front was a b 268 but I believed Rockauto. Live and learn.

Timken 5707 fits on the driver side, passenger side uses a Torrington B-268 needle bearing 2" OD 1 5/8" ID for the stub shaft support.

In other words we are done for the day. I have a while to hear suggestions for removing the bearing. surely someone has done this. I could have sworn I have but I have no memory of it now.





"
 






Hi Jon, how's it going? I've been "away" for a while myself, family illnesses and life etc.

I do have small news. You went from a black truck to a red/red model, and I'm now going the other way for a little while. I just bought a rough black 98 Limited, to replace my red Mounty.

I needed to find one without rust, and this one has none, but lots of work needed. I will eventually get it modified and have it look like the Mountaineer though, red on red too.;)

Oh Hi Don! I hope you are over the humps now. :D
 






I'm trying to remember what that bearing looks like on the passenger side. A trick the mechanics use at work is weld a solid bead around the bearing, let it cool (shrink) and it should just slide out.
 






I'm trying to remember what that bearing looks like on the passenger side. A trick the mechanics use at work is weld a solid bead around the bearing, let it cool (shrink) and it should just slide out.

a good view might help. autofocus+tube = blurry but I think they will work
 

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Had a similar problem and used a long two jaw gear puller with the jaws flipped with the lip pointed out and a wood block to wedge the jaws open so they don't slip, and the threaded part of the puller swapped out for a bolt that would connect to the slide hammer, its a hell of a contraption but it works well for axle bearings
 






Had a similar problem and used a long two jaw gear puller with the jaws flipped with the lip pointed out and a wood block to wedge the jaws open so they don't slip, and the threaded part of the puller swapped out for a bolt that would connect to the slide hammer, its a hell of a contraption but it works well for axle bearings

I was wondering if i wasn't going to have to do some rigging. Turns out all you need to do is knock out the needles, and grab the outer ring. Came right out this way.

:D
 






Good job there. I've had one front diff rebuilt by a good Ford tech, now retired. That man told me how much trouble a couple of the parts inside were to work with, the bearings were some of that(special Ford tool someone else had).

I just called again today to try to contact another Ford tech, who had a low mileage front diff. I learned last week that he had quit a while back, to work at a dealer near his home. I hope he'll call me back and still has the diff. My "new" truck has 158k on it and everything looks original(old).

I'm feeling slowly better, the crud is just a nuisance now(less headache so less medicine). I should have my title for the truck tomorrow, I had to mail it back after learning that NC requires a notarized sig.

I'm going to swap the front driveshaft, axles, hubs, brakes, and tires from my Mercury to the "new" truck, to get it running(and be able to use up the 18" tires). I'd love to swap the front diff also, assuming the one I might could get is a 3.73 gear too.

Temps are warm, it's mowing and yard work time here.
 






Well, it wasn't pretty but the front diff mount bushings have been removed.
A friend of my son came and saved the day, allowing me to merely observe while they went at it.

The new bushings are in the deep freeze. Hopefully they will shrink a little and go in a bit easier.

I was told to use a candle to heat the ring(s) on the diff, and allow wax to drip around, I can see where this will expand and lube the hole to make them easier to press in.
 






Well, it wasn't pretty but the front diff mount bushings have been removed.

Where did you get the bushings from? Part Number?
Press in? What are you using for this?
Questions, questions, and more questions.

I have one that's not very happy, and with my diff out, now would be a good time.
 






Where did you get the bushings from? Part Number?
Press in? What are you using for this?
Questions, questions, and more questions.

I have one that's not very happy, and with my diff out, now would be a good time.

Part number for front differential -axle housing mount bushings

F67Z 3A443 AA ( around 38.00 each from ford)

There is also one in the torque bracket so to do them all you'll need 3

The complete front differential axle housing torque (mounting) bracket part number is 3L5Z 3K090 AA
This part is $190.00 so I would attempt the bushing first.

Yes these are press in.
For removal, Remove the center tube (easily presses out) and rubber first ( cut out or burn) , then shave off the outer rim piece with with a cutoff tool so you can fit a backer sleeve for pushing the bushing out. A few dimples to the bushing edge with an air hammer makes the pushing edge larger. I used a 1 1/4" socket and a c clamp press to push it out once the guys had it all prepped.


edit. click here

or here
 






Good news and bad news.

Betty's fuel pump works just fine. =the good

Fuel spraying out all over the engine bay=the bad.

and we really needed her to run today. :(
 






Sounds like evil was teaching her when Tim was there
 






Sounds like evil was teaching her when Tim was there

Evil only sat by her for 2 days. She didn't have time to educate Betty on how to piss its owner off....I think
If it ends up being a fuel rail or the lines coming off it going to you fuel lines let me know. I have a couple kicking around you can have
 



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started her up and said "hmm, that smells like gas"

"can't be from my car"

So I headed up to the gas station, left it running while I went in to say howdy to the gang, came outside and saw fuel dripping down all over the cat converter, there was a 2x4 foot puddle of gas under the truck. Got it home without going boom! Well, at least the truck didn't go boom. But I sure did. :mad:

I have a veteran son who is having a rough go of life. Seems like he's cursed. Seriously, just when things look good something just like this happens.In the last 2 years he's totalled 3 vehicles due to deer.

Today he started a new job, and needed Betty to get there. He got to work ok, but it was a challenge we just didn't need.
 






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