supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · June 29, 2017

Well.....I just called crane. I don't have enough pre load. I set them at 1/2 turn at zero lash. They have told me it should be 1 full turn. I also asked them if I have to go and reset lash on all valves when I did this and they said no you can just add a 1/2 turn to each of them regardless of where the motor is sitting . It will be a little aggravating to get the valve covers off with all the crap that is around them but I have done them before . Even help do one in a Parkade once

Truthfully Andy I can't remember that but I will take your word on it . I've just become so burnt out lately and stressed hoping I don't screw anything up on this . That and I have also had a ton of problems with my right shoulder lately which makes things difficult to do. This weekend or tonight if it doesn't rain all pop off the valve covers and reset them . I have been thinking on this too. I think what I will do is put the blower mount on the 302 and both the supercharger on to it and block all my vacuum ports and see if I can smoke it on my spare motor. That way I will be able to tell if that amount is twisted to the point it's no longer sealing

4pointslow · June 29, 2017

Tim, if you are just using RTV between the supercharger and mount then maybe try a home made gasket with RTV on both sides of it.
The gasket may absorb some little imperfections in flatness.

vroomzoomboom · June 30, 2017

i did the rvt on its own once....once lol. damn near needed a pry bar to separate them. i did do the rvt sandwich the last time by using two home made gaskets with rvt between them and it worked but some of the rvt oozed out and getting that all off was a nightmare lol

4pointslow · June 30, 2017

Mount/RTV/Gasket/RTV/Supercharger.
That's how it should be.

shucker1 · June 30, 2017

Would Locktite 518 be better than RTV?

vroomzoomboom · July 1, 2017

I am actually kind of terrified of using rvt on the bottom and top of a gasket for the simple reason I would never get the supercharger off. I had to use that when I had the M 90 and I pretty much ended up cutting The supercharger off the mount. When I first put this on the m112 on the 302 are used RVT with no gasket and I literally ended up prying it off .
However the nice thing about having a spare motor kicking around is you can use it instead of doing everything in the truck .

I smoked the supercharger with it sitting on the 302 and found the driver side leaking pretty good. I am going to try doing the way I had it before and that was using two gaskets with RVT between them. I'm going to let it sit overnight and then re-smoke it in the morning . I also got my motor mount today as well so as long as it does not rain tomorrow will be a fairly busy day for me

4pointslow · July 1, 2017

I have been through 4 different superchargers and multiple times had to take it off and put it back on,
so I have to say you are right that it is very hard to get back off.
I have used a very long SnapOn prybar and really had to put some pressure on it to get it off.
It is a real hassle but it should still be mount/RTV/gasket/RTV/supercharger...... If you don't want any vacuum/boost leaks.
This area has to hold boost and vacuum, needs a strong bond.
The gasket will still rip/shear/tear apart when you remove it. Clean up is difficult, but doing it right so you don't have any leaks is worth it.
Remember vacuum leaks cause lean conditions, lean raises temperatures in the cylinders and can lead to detonation which can break even the most expensive pistons.
A thick gasket works better than thin ones, it will absorb more imperfections in flatness and tears easier when prying the thing back off with all your might.
I really want to see this truck perform at its maximum potential before this year is over, I am looking for you to drop into the 12"s.
I am sure this truck is more than capable of 12's.

CDW6212R · July 1, 2017

What is the width of the surfaces you are sealing there for the blower? The wider it is, the harder it'll be to remove. But my thought is if it's wide enough, you can cut a groove in the mount surface that will help with sealing.

You might also consider cutting a few slots in the mount where it can help you pry it off. This is theory, I know it can't be done in all conditions. I compare this to removing the front D35 differential cover. If you ever have one of those out, think of how tough it is to make the cover let go. They didn't build any useful overhang edges into the diff, or the cover, to separate them. In doing it you can see where they should have built it to help removal.

vroomzoomboom · July 2, 2017

well where do i start.....
put everything back together. gave all the rockers 1/2 turn. put the blower and mount on the same way i did it on the 302 pictured above. i noticed but didnt mention when i put the motor back in, that the belt is real hard to put on now. before it was good, but now i need a long breaker bar on the tensioner. i then started it up.
lifters still make some noise, but no where near as bad as before. vacuum was great. i did watch the oil presser. it starts off around 50psi or so when cold, but as it warms up, it drops to as low as i will say 13. i know i mentioned this earlier. looking up what some other people have had with the pump i have (stock replacement melling) it seems to be normal. still going from 25 at a hot idle to 13, is a little never racking to say the least.
i also thought i had heard some weird sound coming from someplace in the truck. i headed to my budy joes place to see if he could hear it.
when i got there, i shut it off and let it sit for a few mins. i then got him to jump in it, bring it to around 2000 rpms, hold it, then get off the gas. had the hood open while i did it, and i was under the hood seeing if i could figure out where it was coming from. well, he did it a few times. however i thought i saw a small puff of smoke come from the passengers side of the motor.
i asked him to do it again. nothing.
once more. nothing
one more time......KAPOW! the motor backfired threw the intake once again bending the mount.....good thing i was only a few blocks from home and was able to limp it home.
im getting good and taking the blower off. had it off in 15 mins using my electric 3/8 impact. and i wasnt even rushing it lol. i am going to see if the place that cut the alum for me the first time around is doing their alum run. if they are doing a run this week, i am going to break down and get them to cut me some alum so i can make a new mount. this one has been threw hell now and i am getting tired of dealing with it. the crappy thing is getting it cut isnt cheap and i still have to get it welded.
another thing i noticed was this

i have oil pooling in the intake. which means the supercharger is sucking it in. i had a gutted pcv valve in my valve cover (that has no baffle, it was in there to cover a hole) going into my intake tube. i figured it was sucking oil out of the covers, and into my intake. i bought i k&n air breather for it. well, i started throwing oil down the side of the motor, and landing on the headers and spark plug wires. so when the motor was apart i put the gutted pcv back in, ran a hose from it to the pcv in the intake. however what i failed to see was that this was also running into the intake side of the blower. somedays i cant win....

delexploder · July 3, 2017

I hear ya on the Milwaukee tools! try the m12 impact, mine really surprised me when it turned a 1/4 in adapter into a twisted piece of junk

vroomzoomboom · July 4, 2017

put it back together today...again....
still not having ideal oil presser. i gave the machinist a call to make sure i didnt put anything together the wrong way. he figures my oil pump is going bad. which means....motor my have to come out....again...but he did tell me to try a mechanical gauge first just to make sure its not my gauge. i buddy of mine has one and said he will bring it home with him tomorrow.
i am going to call the parts store and see if they will bring in both stock, and high pressure pumps in. i cant remember if a high pressure pump is taller then a stock pump (i remember when i did my 429 it was, and they had a ***** fitting it in the pan).
it does suck. other then the backfire which i have no idea other then it was running rich because i had just started it up, it runs the best it has ever ran!

vroomzoomboom · July 6, 2017

now i feel like a dumass. i have been stressing out about very low oil pressure. thinking either too much clearance on the rods and crank, maybe the lifters not pumping up, and i was almost set to start pulling the motor out again and replacing the oil pump, and checking the gaskets for the pump and screen. a few people asked what i was using for oil. 5w30. so after talking to a few engine builders one said to try 15w40. glad i did that. i now have about 25-30lbs oil pressure at hot idle, and around 45 cruising.
40 bucks for oil and a new filter just saved me and dono a weekend of hell.

Dono · July 7, 2017

I'm curious on the noisy valve train. is it quieter when hot now?

CDW6212R · July 7, 2017

Excellent to hear. The oil viscosity is something you can adjust for the given engine and usage, including the clearances. Oils today are excellent for most all brands.

People should pick the one that works the best for their cars. I'm using thicker oil(at least 40w) for my 95 Crown Vic, because it has a rocker/valvetrain noise most of the time at hot idle. Thinner oil makes it more noticeable, and thicker oil reduces it.

vroomzoomboom · July 11, 2017

last night was "lets take it for a drive and hope it dont break" night. went into the city for cruise night. it was also pretty damn warm to. first thing i figured it would do is overheat in traffic. nope.
got on and off it a few times, no problems. my heart almost dropped when we got to one of the places and i saw a big puddle forming under the truck, and when i looked under it, could see something dripping rather well. turns out my meth nozzle going into the intake tube broke (second one that has done that). going to see if snow performance one will work. that way i can toss the crappy AEM one.
i have a childhood friend thats in town at the moment with his 2 kids that surprised me by appearing out of nowhere last night as well lol. he told me his son liked the way evil sounded. so today i took them for a "little ride"

tapped the throttle a few times in town for them. dont think i could have smacked the smile off his sons face lol. then i went out on the highway. clicked it in 4x4, and let it fly. its done this in the winter with the smaller tires on it, but never in the summer with the 20's. when i nailed it, i heard the tires screech. that even surprised me. i looked at all of them out of the corner of my eyes, and all of the were pinned to the seat lol. his son liked that. however i almost made his daughter sick....whooops lol. but she took thought it was cool.
back to another issue. this lifter/rock tap is starting to drive me nuts. i have googled to see if anyone else has had the same noise/problem as me. everyone has posted that have comp gold rockers motors sound like a sewing machine. i hate that. if it doesnt rain tomorrow i am going to drive it to the machinist that did the crank for me to have a listen and see what he thinks. summit and crane have told me if the lifters are junk, they will warranty them for me however.

CDW6212R · July 11, 2017

Awesome, a drama free drive and having fun. I hope the lifter noise is either no wear to worry about, or it can be corrected. Full roller rockers have always had the characteristic of louder lifter noise, but I've heard engines that the sound was very mild. I could live with a mild sound.

delexploder · July 12, 2017

not to jinks you but the next time you have your motor out you should have your oiling system blue printed and opened up , our local Ford guru usually has the motors he builds idle at between 60/80 psi oil pressure depending on what its for, but its not just the pressure he also makes sure of volume movement by opening up and champhering all the oil gallys and even adding a few , sbf have a top end oiling problem at rpm already but its a balancing act to keep from starving the bottom end as well ,

vroomzoomboom · July 12, 2017

your not jinxing me at all. i drive this thing like driving miss daisy.....if miss daisy were on crack....heading to a strip club....with death metal playing on the radio
its not a matter of "if" the motor comes out, its a matter of "when" the motor comes out

vroomzoomboom · July 19, 2017

new lesson was learned today. going back to the loud lifter tic, i could also hear what i can best describe as a spring binding. i didnt want to post anything about it because i wanted to make sure what it was. well, today was that day. it sounded like it was coming from the passengers valve cover. it did this to me in the past but went away, then came back when i had the motor back in. after looking around i also noticed when it made that sound the tensioner for the belt would move. took a chance and ordered a motorcraft one. i grabbed this one off the 302 when i saw the one i was running at the time had the pulley starting to sit on a angle. put the new motorcraft one on, no noise. and what sounded like lifters clacking away also got quiet
so the lesson is, besides never replacing the cam sycro with anything but a motorcraft one a belt tensioner has now made the list.

ahodges · July 19, 2017

It definitely seems like going Motorcraft saves a lot of headache.

supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

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