The Black Hole

[WormsExplorer]

Nope couldnt tell gman lol.

 

[gmanpaint]

Crawled under to grab a picture of the atlas shifter setup to help someone. Noticed I have a wet trans at the back by the tail house. Leak is from the top of the trans. Checked all 3 plugs, and all good. Must be leaking out of that new shifter kit I installed. Ugh....Save that for another day, as it's not pouring out, or anything like that.

I have been adding and changing lights and stuff to this thing for 10 years now. Realized I have way too many wires, and too many fixed connections. I want to be able to remove major items with ease. Like the bumpers, roof basket, heck, even the body if need be.

I found a few different style disconnects, and a couple of them are waterproof with seals. One type of these take a special crimp tool, and I grabbed that too.

So today I managed to get the front end accessories 75% done. Still have the front camera, front rock lights, and Winch to take care of. Once the front is complete, it's on to the side & rear rock lights. Then to tackle the roof rack. This is definitely taking longer than I thought it would. Soooo much stuffs!

While I was at it, I swapped the front driving lights on the lower cross member with nice deep Amber Led long throws. They look killer during the day, can't wait to see what they look like at night. I know, I know.... more lights. I didn't add any, just changed them.

Edit for night shot:
Looking directly at them from about 20 ft back. These 5w led pod fog lights are wicked. Very deep amber light, not the weak thinned out yellow light.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm sure glad most lights available now are LED's. You would have killed a lot of alternators by now if you had to feed old incandescent bulbs. I haven't added many big current items in my years, but the biggest were my first, four 100W headlights, and a car amp that needed about 25-30 amps. The old 55A alternator in my 72 Gran Torino didn't like the headlights. I had to have the alternator built with 80A guts, plus add a big relay, and it did fine then. Those were some bright lights, real driving lights by Cibie, 5 3/4" round, in place of the stock lights. I hope to use them again in my Ranchero.

We have it good now, with 150A+ alternators being common or easy to come by.

 

[gmanpaint]

All the lights used to be halogen but I never used them all at the same time. Even now, with all the led lights, I still don't. They all have a specific purpose, and rarely work together. If I turn them all on, there isn't a noticeable drain, but I don't, so yeah, no worries.

The winch however does draw a lot. The agm battery helps with this, as it has a decent reserve, and helps to run a set of lights without much paristic drain. Engine is running when using it, and I use the locking hand throttle to raise the rpms to let the alternator charge better simultaneously.

Back in the day, vehicles we're more mechanical, and didn't need much amperage to operate. I do remember adding a stereo with amps in my 77 Monte Carlo, and the headlights dimming to the subwoofer thumps. Lol

 

[CDW6212R]

I've watched the LiFePO4 batteries coming along, wishing they could be used for automotive tasks. They don't yet have a charging ability to handle typical alternators. The biggest can only handle about 60 amps of current, so any alternator would fry them. They are cool though, a couple of those to equate to a car battery, weighs maybe 5-6 pounds. I thought I might use a couple for back up uses, or even in the house for power outages. But again they require charging systems that have limits below their current limits. Prices will come down, and/or the capacities will improve. That's the kind of battery technology that is limiting electric cars, or bigger things. It's cool to see coming though.
http://power-barn.com/earthx-lithium-batteries-for-watercraft/

 

[gmanpaint]

Lithium tech has come a long way for sure. I have been following along with Tesla and their latest line of Roof solar panels made to look like a few different types of shingles. They came up with a new home use battery that hangs on a wall like a painting, and is about 3" thick. Amazing tech right there. the downside to all this, is the way they get the Lithium, and how they manufacture those batteries. Fairly large footprint for a green device.

The very first Lithium battery I owned was in a lighted led fishing bobber. Got it when I was 14, and it still worked 20 years later. When the bobber finally broke, the battery still had a charge to it.

 

[gmanpaint]

So the SS brake lines (4) was ordered on August 10th, and still nothing. Last communication from them (and the only one) was on Sep 5th. An email saying a fitting was on back order. This is another company that does Bizz online, and doesn't answer the phones or emails.

Starting to think I need a new hobby. This paying people for stuff, and not communicating with me, is enough to make me say screw it all, and sell the rigs.

On a happy note....... hmm... I will get back to ya'll with that.

 

[WormsExplorer]

WOW That is just unreal. They must sell stuff like crazy to have Crap service like that.

 

[CDW6212R]

Sounds like TM headers, ... where do you get those again?

 

[gmanpaint]

The SS lines was ordered from Deerfield Precision.

The other parts mentioned earlier, was an online store in SoCal. I asked the manufacturer about them when I was communicating with their engineers, and they vouched for them. The manufacturer is huge, and does not sell to the public, only dealer suppliers.
When I have them and installed, I will make a post all about it with details. Lol

 

[gmanpaint]

Well, still no answer with the SS lines.

About that happy note....

I got a call from the other parts supplier and they told me my parts came back, and they sent them 2 day air ups. I even got a tracking #!

Edit:

Parts arrived as told. They look great. Planned on starting the install this weekend. BUT.... I am missing some key parts. Seems they forgot to add the correct amount of a certain small item needed, and only gave me half of what's needed. So the work will not get finished until after I have ALL the parts I need.

Always something with these rigs!!

 

[gmanpaint]

Alright, Sunday night almost 2 months has passed since I ordered these. I worked on the project over the weekend, and am 90% done. Have a little welding to do, and that won't happen for a bit.

These have always been on my wish list, but after all the bombing down those rough CO Mtn passes daily, the trigger was pulled. I thought it was rougher then it should be, and can only imagine how those poor guys in the torsion bar setup felt. lol

So.... This is the wrong part I received a couple days after the order. Was super impressed they arrived so fast from half across the country, and on a weekend to boot.

I received a call on Monday from Poly Performance. They asked me to open the box, and take a quick measure. I did, and he told me the reason. Apparently, Fox Shocks built these wrong. He caught it when filling another persons order for shipping. That person ordered 4 of these, and 2 of them was shorter. Since he & I was the only two people to order these in a while, he knew to call me. These have a 6.0 body tube, and a 5.0 lower assembly. So this made these 3" too long for my application. The other person got my tubes on his lower assembly. lol, what a mess.

I sent them back the next day, and they said they would have them back to me in a few days. Tick, Tock.....Tick, tock.......

Fast forward a month, and multiple calls, emails, messages, no response, no replies, well, you have read me *****ing lately. lol

So yesterday I decided to start one side, and wait for the missing bolt spacers to arrive next week. I went at it, using the spacers I had. I Quickly discovered, that the spacers were a tad too wide, for my mount tabs. My brackets, was made for the QA1 shock spherical bushings, with a 1" width. The Fox spacers Poly sent me, was for a 1.250" wide tab. So, I used the bench grinder, and removed 1/8" on each. I decided to put on new hardware, and found some longer spacer tubes, while rummaging the specialty bins. I cut down the other 4 I was missing, and had what I needed, for both shock installs.

With the old dirty shocks off, (haven't cleaned them from the CO trip last month) I compared them with the new Fox 2.0. QA1 are about 1" longer overall, as they have a slightly bigger body, and a slightly longer shaft extension. So this meant, I couldn't install my new limit straps right now. Those will have to wait until the welding is done, with new tabs.

I like that the Fox has more threads on the body. I will remove the coils off the QA1's and clean everything up, and put them up for sale for half price.


So with the shocks installed, I had to place the reservoirs in a temporary position, until the welded tube mounts are installed on top of the frame rails, and tuck them out of the way. This pic is with full droop, and limit strap doing it's job. The Reservoir line is free & clear, even tho it looks like it is hitting in the pic. You can see what time has done to the paint, and surfaces. But I have taken it to a few major locations, and ran them thru the ringer pretty hard. I will touch up after all the welding is complete.

The new coils are 700 lb x 12". I got them close to where the old setup was, but really no way to know how far to crank on the keepers, just yet. Oh... The spanner wrench I paid extra for, from Poly Performance was wrong. Wasn't even close to the right one. Ordered a set of 2, got one and it was wrong. SMH... I got lucky, and was able to make one of the QA1 wrenches work. So after a run around the neighborhood, the coils settled and was able to re-measure, and adjust them again. Set them 1/4" higher then the previous height. Dropping 50 lb's made a nice difference, and loosened up the stiff front end a bit.

So these clear the CV's and the UCA's just the same.

I will update this thread when the other work is completed.

Thanks for tuning in, please come again!

 

[CDW6212R]

That's very nice, it looks like a great fit all around.

BTW, how old is that CV axle, the rubber looks old at the boot? I just replaced my right one from being ripped open recently, I must have had some brush tear it. My truck is filthy compared to yours, you have a slick frame and most of the parts in there.

BTW, who would know how to replace the front carrier bushings, specifically the one next to the yoke, part of the bracket? I priced them at Ford today, the fronts are the same part, not too bad, but the rear only comes with the bracket, $175MSRP. I have a spare bracket to work with, to measure if needed.

 

[gmanpaint]

Pretty sure Turdle replaced his diff bracket and bushings, maybe he can elaborate for you.

The cv axles are only 16 months old. They get stretched from all the articulating off road. I inspected it closely, and the cracking is just on the surface. I will keep an eye on it.

 

[CDW6212R]

Thanks, I'll ask Jon, I have a little more play at the back of the diff, than I'd like. I figured that might just be a spare axle.

The one I just put in is a Ford part, I don't recall where I got the pair. The hub nut is a hair bigger than a 31mm, this one takes a 1.25" socket(I liked it, big thick nut with lots of meat for the socket).

 

[gmanpaint]

I have 2 sets of spare CV axles. 1 set has about 3k miles, and 1 set is new in the boxes. I replace them often, along with the Bearing units. I also have a couple new Bearing units, and a few low mile units for spares. These get tucked away in the cargo box.

Reason is, I go out on trips knowing I'm going to abuse them.

I would never do that with older units with high miles on them. This is one area I have seen first hand, way too many times with others breaking them, and being stuck, or slowing down groups, doing trail repairs, because they beat on these parts with 80-100k miles on them. Then scratch heads, wondering why, or calling the rigs junk in disgust.

Stuff happens, but when it does, it should be on something that had no way to know it would fail. These items are avoidable.

Ok, I have to go find a DDS that will yank out a couple broken teeth. I haven't slept since the night before last, as the throbbing pains in my jaw won't let me. Ugh.

 

[WormsExplorer]

Tooth pain is a Huge pain in the Butt.

For having parts with on the trail is always a good Idea. Once I start getting out there I will be doing the same thing.

 

[CDW6212R]

I hope you have a good dentist, and never need them of course. I don't mind going myself, but just a teeth cleaning is about $100, with insurance. Good luck,

 

[gmanpaint]

Still no answer at Deerfield Precision, goes right to voicemail every time. Not sure what to do about this, as I feel as if I got robbed.

No answer in the last 2 days at Poly Performance either. So I called tech services at Fox about the spanner wrench. They are aware, and confirmed it doesn't work. They have one that uses a 3/8" ratchet, and fits, but told me that an aftermarket spanner wrench, would be better, as these are thin steel cheapo's. The wrong spanner cost me $26 before taxes. The ratchet type is $9. lol They sent an email to Poly, telling them to change their information about the spanner wrenches. They also said once they get a certain amount of returns / complaints, then they will remove it completely. Sounds messed up to me. That's corporations for ya. They have real nice aluminum spanner wrench sets available, but only for larger shocks. Weird.

I have yet to get a new DDS after the move, and the DDS I want, is on vacation. I got some OTC stuff to help with the 2 broken molars, until I find someone to help.

Edit:
Poly Performance finally answered. They sent me an authorization email, but no return shipping label for the wrong wrench. Called them back, and demanded one. they told me to contact Fox for that. I laughed, and said I bought it from you, not them. He said he will talk to them, and get back to me. Sheesh. I ended up buying a 3/8" ratchet type set from QA1.

Called Deerfield back again, left another message to refund my $150. Still nothing. The world has gone stark raving mad.

 

[gmanpaint]

So the other half of my shock order arrived yesterday. Got them on today. The BH is full on Foxy now.

Learned these are a royal PITA to do alone. The little tab spacers are pure evil to put on. You have to hold both spacers on the eyelet ends, as you slip the eyelet into the tabs. I think I will order the poly bushing kits from Off Road Warehouse for these. They eliminate the spherical steel bearing, & spacers. They make the shocks like a normal set with poly bushings and a bolt sleeve.

I had to install the lowers first, then lay on my back, and compress them with all my might (doesn't help I'm a tired mess) and quickly swing the upper end to the mount before it extends too far. I used the Hi-lift jack on the sliders to lift one side at a time, to make the distance longer, and give me an extra fraction of a second. lol

Also, the upper pin bar eliminator tabs, and the lower skid tabs are made with a 1-7/16" space. Most shocks are 1", 1.25", & 1.5" widths. I had to order some spacers for 1.5" tabs, and the shocks come with 1.25" spacers. Using one of each, I cranked on the bolts to compress the tabs a bit to take up some of the slack. Best I could do today. Time to get horizontal, and deal with the ongoing face pains.

Pin bar eliminators on first. You can see the little spacers here.

Shocks installed.

So the new-ish MT7000 with 10" travel I removed, will go up for sale too.