92 EB Ex build.

[11BEx]

Wow, Thats weird, I have the exact same amp and speakers with zero noise and sounds decent for what it is.

Hm. Maybe I need to change my ground location. That's the only variable I haven't really messed with. I just cleaned up the spot where I bolted it to.

 

[410Fortune]

keep the ground as short as possible
the signal or RCA cables should not crossover any large power wires (run RCA down pass side, power cables down drivers side)
Check your battery terminals and grounds make sure they are clean
Check the ground feed for your head unit, I like to use the stock ground wire and power feeds from the stock head unit when possible

You will need adjustable camber shims for those leveling coils...I like the infinitely adjustable type
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80109-...sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=1992+ranger+camber+shim

 

[crashhard]

my Amp is head unit. It's just a bluetooth or headphone Jack input.

Edited: Sorry looked at the pic of amp again and you have a standard amp.

 

[11BEx]

keep the ground as short as possible
the signal or RCA cables should not crossover any large power wires (run RCA down pass side, power cables down drivers side)
Check your battery terminals and grounds make sure they are clean
Check the ground feed for your head unit, I like to use the stock ground wire and power feeds from the stock head unit when possible

You will need adjustable camber shims for those leveling coils...I like the infinitely adjustable type
https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80109-...sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=1992+ranger+camber+shim

Thanks for the heads up about adjustment cams, I totally forgot to buy some. I'll drive it for a few days so the springs settle and then get them installed. I might as well rebuild the front suspension while I'm at it, I'm sure everything is factory.

 

[11BEx]

Threw on my rough country leveling springs today, man was that an experience. I'm done my share of spring swaps after owning a few Jeeps, this was probably the easiest tbh. No rusted bolts, or stripped nuts. Took me about three hours today

 

[11BEx]

Finally got the rear lift shackles installed, went ahead and knocked out brand new drums, shoes etc so my entire braking system is brand new except for master cylinder and booster.

After all that was done I felt like it was time to go on a good shake down test and cycle the suspension a few times / re torque stuff down. Took some pictures while I was out

 

[11BEx]

More pictures

 

[11BEx]

Couple questions for yall-

1. What is the fluid type and capacity of the transfer case? I'm having a hell of a time finding information about it. Mine is electronic

2. The front diff, is there another fill plug that you can buy to switch out the factory square headed one? I like being able to use a 3/8th ratchet and not worry about stripped bolt heads from an open ended wrench.

 

[11BEx]

So I threw on some old steel d window rims I had laying around, gotta get my hands on some center caps though, looks kinda awkward without them.

This morning I went out to start her up and my tire was completely flat, apparently the old BFG had leaked thru the sidewall due to dry rot so I limped to the local firestone and purchased four brand new Destination AT 31X10.50X15 and alignment for right under a grand. The tires look good, and the bigger size really suits the truck compared to 235s. I want to go bigger but 3.27 gears stopped me. Maybe next fall I'll have 4.88s and I can get some 35s.

Couple questions, I'm hearing a squeak sound while I drive, basically when I take off from a stop there is a squeak from the end that changes to a higher pitch with speed. Any ideas? I looked at the u joints and don't see any issues, no rust, all the caps and no play in the half shafts / DS. Also I have a popping sound, I'm assuming it's my auto hubs based on research on here. Time to get manuals.

Along with the squeak, I'm having a slight vibration while accelerating. Once I let off the gas, it'll even out. It's enough to vibrate the wheel noticeably. Some direction to check would be appreciated.

I'll take pics of the new tires when I go out in the woods tomorrow. Thanks yall

 

[stephen93Eddie]

Couple questions, I'm hearing a squeak sound while I drive, basically when I take off from a stop there is a squeak from the end that changes to a higher pitch with speed. Any ideas? I looked at the u joints and don't see any issues, no rust, all the caps and no play in the half shafts / DS. Also I have a popping sound, I'm assuming it's my auto hubs based on research on here. Time to get manuals.

Along with the squeak, I'm having a slight vibration while accelerating. Once I let off the gas, it'll even out. It's enough to vibrate the wheel noticeably. Some direction to check would be appreciated.

I'll take pics of the new tires when I go out in the woods tomorrow. Thanks yall

View attachment 164571

have you checked your wheel bearings? I occasionally got vibration at slow speeds with my 33's and very minimally with my 35's could be tires i suppose.

 

[11BEx]

have you checked your wheel bearings? I occasionally got vibration at slow speeds with my 33's and very minimally with my 35's could be tires i suppose.

I did front wheel bearings maybe a month ago when I did rotors and such. Maybe I didn't set the pre load properly or tightened the hub nut too much.

 

[11BEx]

As promised, new rubber on the EX plus the alignment specs for you suspension gurus.

 

[410Fortune]

transfer case gets ATF, I use the same Atf in the t case as I run in the trans for me its Mobil or Valvoline Meron V

I am sure you can swap out the plug in the front diff just need to know the size and thread.

Vibration under acceleration and you just added rear shackles? I would check the rear driveshaft make sure the U joints , CV joint and slip yoke are good

For the sqeaks and noises the best bet is to jack up the front end so the tires are off the ground and see if you can duplicate the noise........

Looks great with the lift and new meats!!

Alignment looks to be well within specs, It looks like the right front camber is at +.6 degrees? Just a little more + (top of tire tilted outwards) then we would like to see, but also be prepared for those springs to settle a little.
You should ask them if the alignment comes with a free adjustment after 250-500 miles or so?
Some alignment shops will work w you

 

[massacre]

Couple questions for yall-

1. What is the fluid type and capacity of the transfer case? I'm having a hell of a time finding information about it. Mine is electronic

2. The front diff, is there another fill plug that you can buy to switch out the factory square headed one? I like being able to use a 3/8th ratchet and not worry about stripped bolt heads from an open ended wrench.

You can get a socket that fits those square headed plugs, I have a bunch of different sizes, I just use those.

 

[11BEx]

Took it out for some parking lot flexing, had to see how the new coils would react and if the tires were any decent.

 

[11BEx]

Well, I officially have no heat in my truck now. Looks like the heater core needs to be flushed, or just replaced. I swear it's one thing after another.

 

[11BEx]

Well, I officially have no heat in my truck now. Looks like the heater core needs to be flushed, or just replaced. I swear it's one thing after another.

So I tried flush / back flush of my heater core today, green coolant came out right away so that wasn't my issue. I also burped the air out as I was having problems with the temp gauge bouncing around.
I still have no heat, just the ambient air temp coming thru the vents. My temp gauge stays at O on the normal scale and doesn't move once it's there now. Blower motor works on all settings as well. Any ideas on where to go? My next thoughts are thermostat and replacing the hc. I don't want to just throw money at it and hope something sticks to fix.

Yes I've tried searching.

 

[11BEx]

So I think I found the vibration issue, I just went to steel wheels and apparently being lug centric rims, if they aren't torqued properly it'll cause a vibration in the steering wheel.. Gonna tackle that this weekend.

Also ordered a new heater core, and themorstat. Hopefully that'll fix my no heat issue. The last problem I have is weak brakes, still assuming it's the master having a ton of air in it. Gonna buy a new one unless you can bench bleed a master that's already been used.

 

[11BEx]

So I think I found the vibration issue, I just went to steel wheels and apparently being lug centric rims, if they aren't torqued properly it'll cause a vibration in the steering wheel.. Gonna tackle that this weekend.

Also ordered a new heater core, and themorstat. Hopefully that'll fix my no heat issue. The last problem I have is weak brakes, still assuming it's the master having a ton of air in it. Gonna buy a new one unless you can bench bleed a master that's already been used.

So I replaced the heater core, and bleed the coolant for air bubbles. Still no damn heat in this thing. I'm about to give up. Any ideas where to look next? It runs on the N in normal and doesn't move. Hoses to heater core get hot.

 

[BruceExploder]

I want a first gen but I keep missing them lol. I have two 2nd gens.

Nice ride!