Tim's '93 Sport

[410Fortune]

check the heater control valve up near heater box?

 

[timtimtimajim]

You know I don’t have a heater control valve actually... it’s always just been two heater hoses.

Weren’t they only on the 94’s or something like that??

 

[gmanpaint]

Check the block on all sides for a coolant trail.

When the lower intake gasket breaks around the coolant passages, it will leak down the block and travel all over before it lands on the surface.

 

[timtimtimajim]

The more I think about this the LIM gasket just seems likely. I had thought about it at another point as a possibility.

If it’s leaking from the LIM coolant won’t mix with oil right?

 

[gmanpaint]

I guess if it was bad enough, it could leak internally and mix.

I have only had them go bad at a valley, and leak onto the block. Pretty common.

 

[timtimtimajim]

Ahhh okay that makes sense. I’m going to give it another once over this weekend and see if I can’t pinpoint the leak. Really hoping I can find it!

 

[timtimtimajim]

So found the leak. And sure enough it’s the LIM gasket. Wet spot was just behind the power steering pump/ac bracket area. Luckily gaskets are cheap! Not sure when I’m gonna tackle replacing the gasket. Just gonna put up with the leak for a bit until I’ve got a bit more time.

Got the plastic for my center console and an A-pillar gauge ordered today. Went for the dual pod, but don’t have a second gauge yet. Thinking of going for an oil pressure gauge. That stuff will be here next week. Also have the material for the shift boot. It’s black marine grade vinyl. So waterproof and UV resistant. Goes along well with the marine grade canvas on the center console!

 

[gmanpaint]

Vac gauge would be more useful than an oil pressure. Can help diagnose all kinds of stuff with one of those.

I think you can modify the stock oil gauge, to work like a real one. Should be how to posts here for that.

 

[timtimtimajim]

That’s a good idea too! There’s a reason why I hadn’t ordered a second gauge yet!

Yah I’ve seen that write up before. Need to look at it again because it would be nice to have an actual oil pressure gauge over the dummy light.

 

[timtimtimajim]

Gauge pod showed up today! I was too excited to wait to install, so I braved the 15 degree temps! Only took me 15 minutes to put it in since I’ve had the gauge sitting on the dash.

I’m really glad I went this route for mounting the gauge. It’s in my line of sight and just looks really good!

 

[WormsExplorer]

That looks really nice.

 

[timtimtimajim]

Little bit of progress on the center console. Got the plastic panel cut and attached! The hole for the spot light switch has some plastic fragments that are making the switch crooked. Gotta fix that.

Been working on a test shift boot with my mom. Hopefully we’ll have the final product soon!

 

[WormsExplorer]

That looks awesome.

 

[410Fortune]

well done
Have you considered swapping out one or two of those 12V sockets with a dual USB port and or voltage gauge?

I love these things put them everywhere

https://www.amazon.com/USMEI-Waterp...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Cant wait to see the boot!

 

[timtimtimajim]

The two outside ones are dual USBs already! I have thought about a voltage gauge, but never liked the idea of losing one of the charging ports. The one you linked would solve that problem! Might just need to get me one

Also need to get a new switch for my e-fan. Looks like the light up top burnt out already.

 

[timtimtimajim]

Had some time yesterday to work on the shift boot with my mom. We got (and by we I mean my mom) the boot sewn up. It looks great and fits great!

Vinyl is a little stiff right now, but it should settle and wear in a bit over time. The ends still need to have some finish stitches sewn in. Then it just needs to be secured to the console panel. I’ve got a couple ideas for how to secure it, just gotta play with it a bit to see what works best!

 

[gmanpaint]

Looks great! Nice job Mom!

How about 2 sq trim rings, one on top, one underneath, sandwiching the boot from the underside, and 4 bolts holding it tight?

 

[timtimtimajim]

Okay @gmanpaint where’d you plant the wire?? Who’d you hire to watch me???

That is exactly what I was thinking of doing! Got plenty of ABS left over to cut trim pieces, so that’s the way I’m leaning to do it!

 

[timtimtimajim]

Okay so I need some help guys. Explorer is giving me problems right now. This might be a bit long...

So today I had parked my Explorer in some snow to get my Fiesta out and to the dealer. When I got back to move the Explorer I hopped in, put it in 4high and ended up stalling because of how deep the snow was. (We just got a bunch of wet heavy snow). Right after this, the Explorer would crank, but would not start. Tried several times with the same thing. Finally after cranking it for 15-20 seconds I got it to start. Dropped into 4low and got out of the snow. After maybe 50 feet the check engine light came on. So I stopped to take it out of 4low. Noticed it was idling somewhere between 1500-2000 rpm, out of gear with the clutch pedal released. Pushed the clutch in and it dropped down to the typical 7-800 rpm and the check engine light turned off. Released the pedal and idle shot back up to 1500 and check engine came back on.

Got the Explorer pulled into the garage and figured I should try to pull codes first. KOEO and memory did not have any codes. Fired it up to do KOER test and still doing the same thing. Idling high with pedal released, fine with pedal pressed. So ran the KOER test and no codes... dawned on me that the only way for it to run KOER test is to have the clutch pressed for the entire test, which means no check engine light, which means no code. So I can’t get it to run the test with the pedal released and it’s not storing the code either. So as far as what code it might be throwing, I don’t have a clue.

Went through and checked my wiring from when I did the trans swap. Everything is still good and in place.

It still drives and goes through all gears fine. So clutch is still fine.

Quick visual check of vac lines. Didn’t find anything.

Checked IAC and it’s in good shape

Checked TPS... not getting proper voltage or resistance out of it for each respective test. Ah ha may have found my issue! Drove into town, got new sensor, drove back, installed... no difference Still idling high with the check engine light (Though I will say there seems to be better throttle response now)

I’m starting to wonder if something might be wrong with the ECU, but unsure.

What do y’all think? Any other ideas or things to check for?

 

[gmanpaint]

Think you need to figure out why you don't have proper voltage to the TPS first. What was your voltage readings?

Could be the computer, or snow packed into something underneath and is causing a ground or open circuit. Might just need to dry out?