My 2000 XLT Explorer 4 Door

[EB4X]

it has a 3.73 LSD ... Awesome, that's what I have....when I was hunting Explorers I didn't come across any past 96's that had LS....and I checked out a lot...it was like Ford loaded them into the 95 - 97's and scarcely included them in the later 2nd gen years...at least my observation. I like the "middle ground" of the 3.73 gearing as well.
**At the top portion of window sticker it states SOHC but under "functional" (?) it lists the OHV engine.... I assume it's the SOHC ?

 

[4pointslow]

My old blue 98 that rusted away and got junked had 3:73's too, I compare everything to that truck because I liked it so much for a daily driver.
This truck is a lot like it and I think I will like it as much as the old 98.

Functional is under the category "standard equipment Included at no extra cost" so the 4.0 OHV was standard equipment.
To the right you will see that just over 4.0 SOHC it says "optional Equipment"
There was a $540.00 extra charge to get the optional 4.0 SOHC engine.
So the original purchaser paid extra for the 4.0 SOHC engine to be in the vehicle.

I prefer the 4.0 SOHC engine over the OHV 4.0 because of the approximately 50 more horse power and 25 ft lbs of torque.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

My old blue 98 that rusted away and got junked had 3:73's too, I compare everything to that truck because I liked it so much for a daily driver.
This truck is a lot like it and I think I will like it as much as the old 98.

Functional is under the category "standard equipment Included at no extra cost" so the 4.0 OHV was standard equipment.
To the right you will see that just over 4.0 SOHC it says "optional Equipment"
There was a $540.00 extra charge to get the optional 4.0 SOHC engine.
So the original purchaser paid extra for the 4.0 SOHC engine to be in the vehicle.

I prefer the 4.0 SOHC engine over the OHV 4.0 because of the approximately 50 more horse power and 25 ft lbs of torque.

Love my SOHC just hate the rattle and broken guides

 

[4pointslow]

Today 12/23/2021 I changed the rear shocks. I mentioned in post#3 in this thread that there were shocks with helper springs on them, on the truck.
I bought some Rancho RS90000's, part number RS999185 for the back. These shocks are adjustable and I have had good luck with them.
When I removed the helper spring shocks the back dropped down about 1.5 inches. I decided to drop the front down as well so I went 6 turns looser on the torsion adjustment bolts. My driveway is far from straight so I will have to find a parking lot that looks straight and do some measuring, the passenger side looks like it sits higher than the D/S like many explorers do.

The truck rides way better now, the suspension absorbs bumps instead of bouncing off them.

 

[4pointslow]

Today (Christmas Eve), I spent the day installing a remote start in this Explorer.
I had to do a few things first, one was removing this dealer installed aftermarket security device.
This thing is a type of key that has to be plugged into its receptacle like shown, for the vehicle to start.

Here is a picture of the security module with the model number 6900A on it.
The key has Silencer on it so that must be the name. Imagine losing that key, it would make your vehicle real silent because it wouldn't start.

This device is installed by cutting the starter signal wire coming off the ignition switch and adding this module in between the two halves of the wire. The module will open or close the circuit depending on whether or not the silencer key is inserted into the receptacle.

There is not too much to this thing, just the six-wire connector that goes to the receptacle, the two larger size wires that interrupt the starter signal circuit, and the smaller two wire attachment which is the ground and a horn wire. The horn wire was not even attached to anything on this vehicle.

The easiest way to remove this device and still be able to start your vehicle is to simply unplug the two larger wires and put a jumper across the connector. I tried this skinny wire just to have proof of concept and my vehicle started without the silencer key.
I would recommend using a much larger wire for a permanent solution, using a skinny wire like I did could result in a fire.
I removed the jumper and installed a remote start system attaching it to these wires and soldered it.

 

[4pointslow]

The other thing I wanted to do was install LED bulbs in my instrument cluster. One bulb was bad, and I like the brighter look of the LED's when installed. I tested them to make sure they lit up before putting it all back together. I use these square little 9 bulb LED's, they work well, and I have not had any flicker or burn out in any of my Explorers.

 

[4pointslow]

The remote start systems are very time consuming and intense because you have to look at several different instruction sheets and many wiring diagrams. So needless to say, I did not take pictures along the way.
I did however take a picture of the two power wires and where I attach them. I attach them both to the lower nut/stud in this picture.
This puts them on the battery side of the alternator fuse, this location works well as I have used it plenty of times and never had a problem with extra wires being on there. The fuse holders did not come with the remote start system, I had them in my garage as I try to keep some in stock and ready to go when I need them. The system had two fuses closer to the remote start module, but they need to be fused at the source before going through the firewall. It took me all day, but it is mostly done, and it works. I have to install a hood switch which came in the mail today, and check to see if I can turn on the tach signal option which is more reliable. Some vehicles have "Repetitive Mode" or sometimes referred to as "MSIS" Multi Strike Ignition Strategy, which means at rpms around idle the vehicle has three sparks per cylinder instead of one. The multiple sparks at idle mess with remote start system (when using tach mode) so on vehicles with it the tach signal can be run off an injector instead.
I hope this vehicle doesn't have it because I already attached the wire to an ignition coil primary circuit.

 

[EB4X]

/\ Good job! ...interesting stuff and good that you knew how to set that up and elimate that Silencer alarm setup as well. With your New Jersey winter(s) I'm assuming you'll have the heater turned on pretty much all the time so when you do your remote start you'll arrive at a warming interior / defrosted windows.. (probably main motivation for this ?)
I put just one LED bulb in center of my cluster when I had it out for odometer gear replacement and sure enough it's now flickering like many other ones I got off Ebay / have installed in my Jeep.... if you want to list link of your ones there (since you've had good luck with them) that would be cool.

 

[4pointslow]

I got my first remote start for Christmas from my parents (both deceased now). My mom saw it at K-Mart and new I would like it.
The brand was Design Tech. The transmitter only had one button. I installed it on my 1988 S-10 Blazer. I think it was around 1998.
Since then, I put a remote start system on every vehicle I purchase.

In the winter I get to go out to a warm vehicle, and leaving the climate control on also defrosts the windows etc.
The engine and its fluids get to warm up before it comes off Idle so that probably helps the engine last longer.
The remote starts are also nice in the summer, I just leave the AC on, and it cools the interior down before I have to get in it.

Copy and paste this in ebay search to find the type of bulbs I am using. (There are many different quantities available)
50pc Super White T10 Wedge 9-SMD Interior LED Light Bulbs W5W 194 168 2825 158

Picture of my first remote start.

 

[donalds]

Good info there

 

[EB4X]

I wasn't even aware those were available back in '98 .... First time I heard about remote start was from the Chevy Cruze commercials about 5 years ago.
My condolences to your loss of parents...I lost my Mom earlier this year.
I had an 84 S10 Blazer 4x... loved that thing for the most part... torquey.

 

[4pointslow]

Losing our loved ones is painful, my condolences to you to.

The only thing I would have changed on my 1988 S10 would have been swapping the rear drum brakes to disk and replacing the steering box for a rack and pinion unit. It did not steer well on the turnpike due to a sloppy steering box and drum brakes just don't work as well as disk brakes.
The criteria in 2008 for my replacement vehicle were 4-wheel disk brakes, rack and pinion steering, 4-wheel drive, and it had to be a Ford because I was teaching Ford classes and had access to every bit of information I needed to work on my own vehicle. Thats how I ended up with my blue 1998 4 door that I recently had to send off to the junkyard(after over 10 years and 183,000miles later) due to rust. The blue four door Explorer was missing an aluminum wheel, so I went to the junkyard to find one and ended up coming home with the 98 two door that is now my race truck. These trucks brought me to this forum where I have met the coolest people, I have to say Explorers changed my life for the better.

 

[4pointslow]

Yesterday I did a little more work on this Explorer. I installed a hood switch for the remote start system.
I don't like the hood switches that come with the remote starts systems, so I ordered one off eBay.
Also, I programmed the remote start to use the rpm signal instead of battery voltage to sense that the vehicle is running.
The fact that it worked makes me believe that the vehicle doesn't have repetitive mode (multi spark ignition strategy).
If it did, I would have gone to an injector instead of a coil primary wire to get the rpm signal needed. (I did this on my 2004 supercharged Explorer)

I gave the truck an oil change using Mobil 1 and a Motorcraft filter. I did notice some nice wet oil at the back of the engine, the valve cover gaskets are leaking, and the oil seems to be running down and getting all over. The front driveshaft and pinion are throwing engine oil as they spin, what a mess. The previous owner gave me a new set of Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets, when I get time and nice weather, I will install them.
While I had the drain plug out, I installed a Fumoto valve in place of the drain plug like I do on all my vehicles. Now the oil won't hit the control arm when changing oil.

 

[4pointslow]

Today I decided to find out why my left front speaker was not working.
First thing I did was swap the radio since it is still stock at the moment, and I had another just like it. There was no change, L/F still not working.
Next was pulling off the door panel to do a visual inspection, the speaker was there, and it was plugged in.
After swapping the L/F speaker with a spare I had in the garage, it still did not work. This meant it was a wiring problem.
I did a continuity test on both circuits from the radio to the speaker connection, and one was open (orange with green stripe).
Next I separated the door to vehicle connector and checked the wires in the door and they were both good with about .3 ohms.
The two speaker wires go from the back of the radio to a connector under the dash by the parking brake, I found the orange with green stripe and it was good from the radio to the connector under the dash. This left only one part of the circuit that goes from under the dash to the door jam.
Inside the rubber piece that all the wires go through, in the door jam, I found the broken wire.

This can be a tricky place to fix a wire but there is a method that has worked for me a few times.
You pull the rubber piece off the body of the vehicle and pull the wire out of the back of that piece and add a length of wire to it, then feed it back in there and solder it to what's left of the wire at the connector.

I used an old transmission dipstick for a wire "fish" tool. It worked better than the metal coat hangers I have cut up and used in the past.
I shoved it through the rubber piece, slid the wire through the rounded end and pulled it back out the side closest to the connector.

A little solder and heat shrink to keep it sealed and it is good to go.

I shoved the excess wire back into the rubber piece, pulled the rubber piece back onto the connector, and installed a new zip tie on it.
I am happy to say that all my speakers work now, I will upgrade the sound system at a later date.

 

[Flashflood]

You can never have enough Ford Explorers! LOL.
I am starting this thread to keep track of this 2000 XLT Explorer 4 Door.
This one doesn't have wheel flares or 16 inch wheels like my other one.

Here is the first picture:

View attachment 424440

And the current mileage is:

View attachment 424441

138000 miles dude that's crazy

 

[4pointslow]

138000 miles dude that's crazy

I just saw a 2 door explorer that only has 33,000 miles on the odometer but the add says the odometer stopped working. LOL
I have seen a few low mileage Explorers for sale on face book marketplace and craigs list.

 

[4pointslow]

I have been working on upgrading the stereo system on this Explorer.
The original system worked, including the Disk changer in the center glove box, but I put the same Kenwood head unit in all my vehicles.
The unit I use is the DNX6180 (although I do have a couple DNX6190HD's as well). The DNX 6190HD comes with HD radio which is digital instead of analog if I read about them correctly.

The units have many features, my favorite is probably the ipod integration. With the Kenwood ipod cable attached to the back of the unit I run old ipod nano's with my favorite music stored on them. If the radio program of the day sucks I just switch to ipod and jam out.

Many people use google maps and waze on their phones these days but I like the built in Garmin GPS in these units.
The Garmin GPS in these units have free lifetime traffic which is run off an FM signal and it has helped me avoid traffic jams in the past when I was working 42 miles away from home.
There was one problem with these though, no map updates from Garmin anymore.
Well I found a way around that with the help of a forum with some kind people on it. (www.gpspower.net)

I was able to purchase a map update for a Garmin handheld unit that was downloaded onto an SD card and then did some modifications to it and my head unit. Garmin still says it can not be done and I understand why, old units are just not supported and to update these units the way I did took a lot of work. One of the things I had to do was upgrade the internal micro SD card in the Kenwood DNX6180, it needed to be a larger size.
The original one was 4GB, I was able to use an 8GB card to fit the newest map data on it.

Here is a picture of where the micro SD card goes. I had to remove the top lid, the front face/screen, and the CD/DVD drive to gain access.

I now have the newest 2022 map installed.

 

[4pointslow]

Today I decided to install all the stuff I picked up for this Explorer's sound system.
Here is the head unit installed. I learned how to change the picture that is displayed when the Kenwood unit boots up too, they call it the splash screen. You can also change the background picture that is behind everything when the unit is on, but it makes it hard to read what's on the screen so I don't bother with changing that.

And here are the MTX sub (Thunderform FEX10), and the old school Alpine amp.

And of course, how it looks with the interior back together.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very nice, and thanks for the ideas and details. I still have two Kenwood single DIN HU's to finish installing, and I bought one Garmin add on module for my 92 Lincoln. I did the install for my Lincoln other than the final RCA cables, so I knew it would fit and fold out properly. I'm sure it is old enough that there are no available Garmin updates for them either. You give me hope that I can still use the GPS when I get that far. My spare one I got from eBay to use in my Ranchero, I'll see how that goes a couple of years from now.

 

[BTR]

@4pointslow - Thanks for sharing. Good stuff!

I’m the original owner of a 2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L SOHC, JOB 1, VIN E, 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E, Manufactured 09/99. I have 145,000 miles on it. I’m curious about your 2000:

Any timing chain/cassette rattle?

Any leaks from the timing chain cover (front)?