My 2000 XLT Explorer 4 Door

[4pointslow]

@4pointslow - Thanks for sharing. Good stuff!

I’m the original owner of a 2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L SOHC, JOB 1, VIN E, 5-Speed Automatic O/D 5R55E, Manufactured 09/99. I have 145,000 miles on it. I’m curious about your 2000:

Any timing chain/cassette rattle?

Any leaks from the timing chain cover (front)?

I do hear rattle from the engine but have not looked into what it is yet. I am planning on pulling the valve covers off to get a look at the plastic timing chain guides. (I did this on my 2004 and found the passenger side broken).
Only leaks that I know of so far are the valve cover gaskets, so when I am replacing them I will be checking those plastic guides.
I did notice this still has the plastic thermostat housing (might have been replaced already) and it is not leaking coolant. I do plan to replace it with an aluminum one from Simons Autosports in the near future.

 

[4pointslow]

I have not been driving this truck much, as I want to do some more work on it before making it my daily driver and giving my Ranger some rest.
Every week I do start it and let it run to keep the battery charged up and I drive it a couple of miles on the weekends to keep the rotors as rust free as possible.
When starting it I noticed it sometimes stalls or runs kind of crappy. I figured the Check engine light would eventually come on and it did.
Keep in mind I drove this thing home over a few miles and all the monitors ran and no CEL. Even got it inspected and it passed with flying colors.
Then it got colder outside and that's when I noticed it running poorly when it was first started. My first thought was the lower intake O-rings were crushed and old and needed to be replaced. I have the parts and will replace them when I do the valve cover gaskets.
Here is a picture with the CEL on.

While I was thinking about it today after work, I decided to pull the MAF sensor out to look at it. The weather was a warm 50 degree's out today so why not. The MAF was pretty dirty, I did clean it and it looks better now. I will drive it to work tomorrow and see how it goes. My Ranger needs brakes anyway and the pads should be here tomorrow night, so it can sit in the driveway for tomorrow.

Here is the dirty MAF pictures, in the first one I circled the one with a dirty black coating on it. It should be shinny and silverish looking.

You can really see the black coating in this picture, even the side posts are coated.

Here is what it looks like after cleaning.

And the close up.

I will see how it runs tomorrow morning when I get ready to leave for work.

 

[4pointslow]

I forgot to mention the codes were for bank 1 and 2 lean conditions.

 

[BTR]

Great info and pics! Very helpful!

 

[4pointslow]

Just a report back,
This Explorer runs better but there is still something a little off.
I still think the intake 0 Rings are in need of replacement and will do them when I do the valve cover gaskets.

 

[4pointslow]

Today I started removing parts to get to the valve covers to replace the gaskets and both the upper and lower intake O-ring seals.
Since it was 60 degrees, I could not resist to tear into it as soon as I got home from work.
I got the upper and lower intakes off, replaced the lower O-ring seals, and then put the lower intake back on.
Tomorrow I plan to start removing a valve cover and see how far I get.

The lower O-rings were crushed, and the Fel-Pro gaskets are thicker than stock so there shouldn't be any leaks coming from the lower intake anymore. I had to push hard to get them into the O-ring groves all the way. Here is a picture of two of the O-rings together for comparison.

 

[4pointslow]

Finally got to do the valve cover gaskets and then installed the upper intake O-rings.
Here is the driver side cylinder head with the valve cover off. There was some sludge in there but everything else looked ok.
I removed the valve cover without separating the fuel line, it was a pain, but it was possible. I had to unbolt the fuel line retaining bracket from the cylinder head. That bracket only has one 8mm bolt, but it is a pain to get to. Then trying to keep the valve cover gasket from falling off when you are reinstalling the valve cover proved to be a pain as well.

The valve cover bolts have sleeves on them that go through the cover, and you push the gasket over those sleeves to keep the gasket in place. It's very tedious and time consuming. I did make a video of installing the valve covers and gaskets (when I did the junkyard engine build) on my YouTube channel (ShortedToGround Racing) if anyone wanted to see how the valve cover bolt sleeves hold the gaskets in place. The name of the video is "Junkyard Engine Build - Installing the Valve Cover Gaskets".

I was glad to see the timing chain guides were not broken on the driver side. They are old but still intact.

I used some bungie cords to hold things out of the way on the passenger side, so I didn't have to open the cooling system.
It was still difficult to get the valve cover off and back on, but it was possible without opening the cooling system.

I was really glad to see the driver side timing chain guide was not broken either! The driver side requires the engine and transmission to be separated to get to the lower bolt that holds the guide on. So glad I don't have to pull the engine or transmission yet, I want to drive it for a while before having to do anything labor intensive like that.

After installing both valve covers with the new gaskets, I installed a new transmission dipstick tube that came with the vehicle.
The old tube was rotted away like most of them. I do keep one in stock at my house now, they only last so many years before they rot out.

Last but not least, I installed the upper intake O-rings when putting it back together.
The new ones were a bit thicker of course. They sealed up nice and the truck runs much better. No more check engine light, and no more lean condition that was worse when it was cold out. Now I can drive it more often.

 

[4pointslow]

When I was doing the valve cover gaskets, I noticed the air filter was pretty dirty.
I replaced the air filter and also installed new wiper blades. The old wiper blades were not bad, so I will use them on one of my other trucks if they need them.

 

[4pointslow]

I returned this Explorer to stock ride height, I removed the Warrior shackles and undid the torsion twist.
The ride was just too hard and I want this to drive like my old blue 1998 4 door I used to have.
This past week I drove it everyday except Tuesday and I am really enjoying it now, so glad to be back in a 2nd gen 4 door Explorer(with the correct engine in it) as a daily driver.
The rear shocks are now Rancho adjustable shocks, I ordered the front ones but they have not been available since I bought this truck.
Wonder if they are ever going to be available now?


I took some new pictures at the park in town.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, and how do you like those adjustable Rancho rear shocks?

I ask because I bought the regular Rancho front shocks recently, to replace a pair of two year old KJB shocks that have been toast for a long while. Do the rears have any effect on the ride height, are they made for any real load at all? I've almost ordered the regular Rancho rear shocks, but I'm waiting to see how the fronts feel. What's on the back of mine are some kind of coil over shock, they raise the height quite a bit and don't drop much at all with 300-400 lbs in the back.

 

[EB4X]

Since the rest of the paint / body is in near mint condition I would be monitoring the local LKQ JY's online inventory / pics for if one with a nice conditioned black hood comes in...granted with the age most hoods are spent by now (like yours) but occasionaly one comes in with a secondary paint job....... $60 and you'll have a complete mint exterior.... essentially...

 

[4pointslow]

Very good, and how do you like those adjustable Rancho rear shocks?

I ask because I bought the regular Rancho front shocks recently, to replace a pair of two year old KJB shocks that have been toast for a long while. Do the rears have any effect on the ride height, are they made for any real load at all? I've almost ordered the regular Rancho rear shocks, but I'm waiting to see how the fronts feel. What's on the back of mine are some kind of coil over shock, they raise the height quite a bit and don't drop much at all with 300-400 lbs in the back.

Rancho adjustable shocks(RS9000 series) do not have any effect on ride height, there is no helper spring on them.
They are adjustable so you can have the feel you want from the shocks. I have them on my 98 race truck and run them all the way high for a stiff chassis during 1/4 mile racing. I turn them down to the lowest setting for the ride there and the ride home for comfort.

I also put them on my other 2000 Explorer that has the wrong engine in it.

 

[4pointslow]

Since the rest of the paint / body is in near mint condition I would be monitoring the local LKQ JY's online inventory / pics for if one with a nice conditioned black hood comes in...granted with the age most hoods are spent by now (like yours) but occasionaly one comes in with a secondary paint job....... $60 and you'll have a complete mint exterior.... essentially...

Unfortunately the clear coat is damaged on the driver front door and driver rear quarter panel over the wheel well.
The roof is not in good shape either. I might get it painted someday.
I was thinking about getting a few fiberglass hoods for all my Explorers.

 

[donalds]

also put them on my other 2000 Explorer that has the wrong engine in it

That seems really bug you. I don't blame you.

 

[4pointslow]

That seems really bug you. I don't blame you.

Hahaha, yes it is bugging me a bit.
The 4.0 OHV engine in my other 2,000 Explorer doesn't get out of it's own way it's so under powered at 160 HP.
It also has a power steering leak, and the engine sounds like it knocks at start up. The transmission feels weak too, and there is a high idle problem.
I want to swap the right 4.0SOHC engine into it. I need to find a donor 2,000 Explorer because I will need the engine/trans, wiring harness, AC system parts, and other things. So glad I found the Explorer I started this thread on to drive as a daily and give my Ranger a break.

 

[4pointslow]

A while ago I ordered a front license plate bracket and finally got a chance to install it.
I used a plastic rivet tool to do the install. The rivets are plastic, the rivet tool is made from metal.
It worked OK but I did have to trim the rivets center post thing down a little as they were sticking out after the install.

Here is the tool I used; it came with some plastic rivets. I will have to look into where to get more rivets later on if I need them.
I only used two rivets, and I used the biggest ones that came with the tool.

 

[4pointslow]

Today this Explorer got a facelift.
I installed an all-black, non-painted ebay front grill, and some new Halo headlights.

 

[Lee's Automotive]

Today this Explorer got a facelift.
I installed an all-black, non-painted ebay front grill, and some new Halo headlights.

View attachment 427520

Looks amazing

 

[4pointslow]

I installed some new taillights but they have clear lenses and I think they would look better with smoked lenses.
Might order some smoked ones if I can find them on my local Ebay. LOL

 

[4pointslow]

Today I removed the roof racks. I don't use them and clearing snow off the roof is a pain with them installed.
I wonder how the chrome strips on the doors can be removed. I might ditch them.
Also was thinking about looking for some black running boards to replace the gray ones.
The wheels and tires might get changed along the way too.
If I keep these wheels, I will at least put tires on with raised white letters on them.
I still have the old wheels and tires off my old blue 4 door explorer too, might try them on to see how the raised white letters look.