Contemplating 5.0L rebuild for mild performance boost

[Mesozoic]

I like the way it's packed in there tightly, but I am admittedly used to working on sports cars and motorcycles. The cars generally have really long noses and engine bays, so there's more space to work within sometimes. The motorcycles are just a huge PITA regardless because they're also jammed up in there like the Ex. LOL

Question: I have a lift plate mounted to the lower intake of the 302 and I only have the 4 motor mount nuts holding the engine in place now. To access the nuts requires being underneath the vehicle obviously and the reason I didn't pull it last night is because I wasn't sure if I undid all the motor mounts nuts that the engine would remain stable - the vehicle is on the lift. So I'll have to lift the vehicle of the lift safety latches and lower it, where both actions will jostle the chassis slightly. Is it safe?

 

[Turdle]

You can go underneath and remove the 2 bolts on each side holding mount plates to block. It'll just set on the plates till you lift it off.

 

[donalds]

If there is no learning curve then why do it in the first place

 

[Turdle]

A long time ago, my dad handed my mother a wadded up sheet and said " there, it's folded"

Smart man.

If there is no learning curve then why do it in the first place

Some things are better unknown. Ever feel like you are the only person in the family who can run a tool box?

 

[Mesozoic]

It’s out!

 

[410Fortune]

Dayum! You pulled the manifolds!!

I undo the 4 mounting nuts on the engine mounting plates under the manifolds.. these can be removed with an impact, extension and wobbly

Good job! Good feeling when she comes out

 

[Mesozoic]

Haha yes, there was a bit of a celebration after I pulled it.

I realized that the top mounting nuts are definitely the easiest way to detach the engine from the frame, but for some reason I was working on the nuts from below, initially. Once I realized that the driver side was futile due to the front axle pumpkin being in the way, I discovered the topside nuts. However, I wasn't able to reach them well without removing the driver manifold, so it came off first. The passenger side manifold came off later once it was catching on the heat shielding for the HVAC assembly, but after that it was smooth sailing.

 

[410Fortune]

Can get engine mount nuts under pass header with ratchet or wrench or
Use the harbor freight “pass through wrench” it fits right in there and clears the exhaust manifold
The ratchet itself is 19mm and the 18mm fits too

SAE and Metric Go-Thru Socket Set, 21-Piece

Amazing deals on this 21Pc Sae/Metric Go-Thru Socket Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

The other nuts can be had from above with extension

 

[Blown]

Go man! I always feel I've completed the most difficult part in getting the engine out. It also get's a bit more exciting once you start building.

 

[Mesozoic]

The next assembly objectives, while I wait for the engine to return from the machine shop with the stock pan painted and installed (along with the stock pickup tube mounted to one of the main studs), includes the following. The engine should be ready within a day or so.

• Take a look at the Edelbrock intake and prepare it for installation
  • Swap in the stock throttle body assembly and elbow
  • Inspect the new injectors and ensure there's no fitment issues or missing O-rings, etc.
• Sensor installation
  • Was thinking of just reusing the ECT since it seems fine.
  • The stock oil pressure sending unit might just be an on/off switch, might install a replacement that provides some real indication via the stock gauge sweep?
• Order some new parts.
  • O2 sensors
  • Spark plugs - I'm looking at NGK 2817s to start with (the heads are aftermarket)
  • EGR gasket
  • Fuel filter
  • Throttle body gaskets
  • New heater hoses
  • Transfer case gasket
• Clean some old parts.
  • Mounting surfaces for the exhaust manifolds
  • Fasteners for the exhaust manifolds
  • The accessory brackets are cruddy, might run them through my friend's parts cleaner
• Clean the shop!
  • Right now, I'm simply struggling with shop cleanliness. Keep in mind that my workspace is actually my home garage. I have a fulltime job that is demanding, so I only get to spend a few hours in the shop (if that) on a daily basis. The engine removal process has created an enormous mess on the floor. I was able to avoid creating too much oil mess, but the coolant really spread out everywhere once I started moving the engine around and mounted it to the engine stand. If anyone has any recommendations on how to cleanse an epoxy floor contaminated with large areas of coolant and oil mess, feel free to mention them! I have a mop and wash bucket/squeegee thing or two, but it seems like I'd ruin the mop head almost immediately if I just started with that.

 

[410Fortune]

You need some dry sorb to soak up all the spills stuff works awesome
We keep a pile of it in the shop, anytime something spills it gets covered in dry sorb… the pile stays until it is all dark black then I scoop it up and toss it out

Stick with motorcraft or Autolite plugs just my opinion

 

[Mesozoic]

I just noticed that my oil filter adapter is just a simple 90 degree mounting unit. There's no oil cooler as far as I can tell. There are no provisions for coolant tie-in or anything like that. Is this expected on a 2000 Mountaineer 5.0L AWD?

 

[Turdle]

Yes, and desired over the cooler. Carry on

 

[C420sailor]

You can use some NPT pipe and fittings to make an adapter to run the stock oil pressure switch and a pressure transducer for an actual gauge. There are threads on here about it

 

[Mesozoic]

You can use some NPT pipe and fittings to make an adapter to run the stock oil pressure switch and a pressure transducer for an actual gauge. There are threads on here about it

I was hoping to replace the stock oil pressure switch with a transducer that actually drives the stock gauge. I'll dig around a little bit with the search function...

 

[Mesozoic]

Motor being loaded up for transport back to the lab!

Not sure if it’s easily discernible, but the heads are fully ported and the exhaust ports are large and in charge.

 

[410Fortune]

I
Like everything I see in that picture the engine the overhead crane the truck it’s loading into
Just perfect!!

 

[Mesozoic]

I totally forgot about the exhaust port alignment issues moving from the GT40P exhaust manifolds to the Dart wide spaced bolt pattern on the World heads. Will investigate the possibility of welding new Dart flanges onto the stock manifolds next week since the process requires controlled heating and cooling to avoid cracking the manifolds.

 

[Josh P]

If there is no learning curve then why do it in the first place

Experience is something you generally gain just after you need it.

 

[Mesozoic]

Robert finally responded about the headers I ordered and it seems as if everything is good now, incredibly. Regarding the aftermarket header flange concern, he responded to that as well with:

I have modified all our flanges to fit both GT40 and after-market ports. I've added material around the port area as well as moving the port up, therefore bolts move down so they are more centered for the standard Ford/After-market ports application.