Eec Fuse Blown Twice~ No Start!!

Continuation After "no Start After Getting Hot" Thread. Thought I Should Start A New Thread As My Problem Has Progressed Into An Electrical Area. The Eec Fuse Has Blown Twice And The Truck Turns Over But Wont Start. What To Do Next? If the ECP solenoid broke its mounting braket and popped out of its socket could that cause the eec fuse to blow? This would possibly explain my up shifting problems. Thanks!

well, if your EEC fuse has blown twice - this means one of 2 things:
1)MAJOR damage to your EEC. If your EEC is blown, a transistor or something can be shorting to ground, and this would explain the blown fuses. Solution: Replace EEC Computer.
2)Short somewhere on the EEC harness(more likely) - the EEC harness has many wires, so this is gonna be a PITA. i would do a visual inspection, checking for corrosion at the harness connectors. Also, check the wires to see if any are missing insulation. If you were having trans problems before, this may explain this.(I know the newer 5r55e has electronic control - i forget for sure, but its doubtful that the A4LD does, but its possible) If the EEC wires/unit are intact, I would - like others suggest - test for fuel pressure. You can rent a fuel pressure gauge at autozone and hook into the schrader valve on your manifold to test. Here's a Quick test to eliminate fuel pump problems. Turn your truck to ON - but DO NOT start it. Do you hear the whiiirrrrr of the fuel pump energizing? If not - fuel pump is likely not engaging. Next - locate the schraeder valve on your intake manifold(it should have a black cap and it will be right next to and facing your coil pack) WEARING GOGGLES OR SIMILAR EYE PROTECTION, use a screwdriver to depress the valve core. Gas should shoot out. If not, the engine is not getting fuel. But since it starts intermittently, I would assume that it is getting fuel.

Your best bet is to check the EEC wiring harness (located behind the passenger's kick panel) and the EEC unit itself. Sounds like SOMEWHERE there is a short. Don't know if it is why your truck isnt starting - but it's a good bet that it isnt helping the situation much.

Keep us updated.

Jeff

Thanks so much for your help! I know we are on the right track. It is not the fuel pump. I put a 40 amp fuse in and the truck started for a minute then blew it again so I know it is the eec. Now just to find the wire problem or replace the computer. UGH! Hopefully this can all happen today as I need a truck! Thanks again!

since it will start initially, but it wont as it gets warm, i would get a haynes manual to find the locations of, and check all temperature related sensors. if we ASSUME that there is no problem with your engine to cause overheating, the most likely source would be the oil temp sensor. esp if it is showing an overheat condition when it isnt overheating. start by checking all wires and connections between this sensor and the EEC.

UGH!!!!! I replaced the computer, after waiting a day for them to order it. Basically, a day wasted and $119 as it is not the eec computer. The wires look fine. It still starts and runs for about 15 seconds then blows the fuse again. HELP, HELP, HELP! GETTING VERY DESPERATE! THANKS!

EUREKA! WOULD HAVE BEEN SMARTER TO REPLACE THE EEC RELAY BEFORE THE EEC COMPUTER! IT FINALLY RUNS! THANKS AGAIN TO EVERYONE WHO HELPED!

good to hear it! will they let you return the old EEC and get your $119 back?

holey moley....keep that new computer as a spare and put your old one back in, the new units have a less aggressive profile....

Or see if you can return it...