Where the hell was this when I was hunting one down! Wtf I'm jealous LOL. Your uncle was a cool guy obviously.. Check out that sick visor and tail light cages. Sheesh.
Mine looked WAY worse; also from NJ. Mine was from Ocean County area and so was I lol. So you did very good for NJ!! Must be low mile or never saw more than a few winters with how little rust there is there. There's a reason I got mine for $800 a few years ago!! The kind of steel used on our frames has a tendency to make big swollen rust flakes, that are mostly flake that look 1000x worse than they actually are.
Air chisel + respirator then grinder with thick wire wheel then a flap disc and paint.
.. then lanolin product like Surface Shield. You'll be happy you did it. I'm rust free and mine used to haul a boat trailer. You got this! I must have lived underneath mine for a solid week just removing all the rust, priming it, and coating it. It paid off. No worries anymore. Gave me a really good chance to inspect all the bushings and replace what was needed, too. Funny enough actually on closer inspection it looks like they installed the same mud flaps I got LOL. Our trucks are almost twins except mine's a 97 and it's Dark Lapis.
Issues I had with regular maintenance making-up was that the gaskets for the diffs were both cooked, and there was a rot hole in my diff cover. Diff plug was rust welded, handled that. E-brake was not an e-brake, it was just a cable that didn't do anything; frozen from rust. Rear tire carrier didn't do anything, also frozen from rust and the hanger rotted out. One shackle was nearly rotten through, and my brake calipers all had to be replaced because not only were they mostly frozen but the bleeders were too; wasn't worth it. Lines too.. Of course.. Learned that one by one lol. Overall though if you have maintenance records of brakes, don't worry about those.. Don't trust those diff seals. You know how you said "no leaks?" Well, you know what they say. If it's leaking, it's got oil in it. Mine were bone dry when I opened them, down to the sump recess at the bottom of the diff.. Just enough left to keep them from blowing themselves up. Also my shocks were rusty but worked.. Bout three months in all shocks were entirely dead. No shockage. Was literally like a boat going down the road, rocking back and forth over any bump. I got Rancho RS5000s for the rear and Monroe Monroe-Matics for the front. They definitely are shocks. Never did the 5th shock but I read on here a lot of people said "nah don't bother" but that was antiquated opinions -- new debate says "bother" so I'm gonna bother soon. Makes cornering safer and stuff. So I'd say good decision replacing the shocks.
Edit: Also you might wanna sand, mask off, and blast those lift gate corners/door trim edges. Mine drove me nuts especially when they started to fade in different colors.. omfg it was horrible. Painting them black (along with the door trim corners) really makes it look new again.. We have really good paint in terms of how much it can be polished back to life. Not so much for the black extra parts, but the body comes back to life with not much more than a good wash clay bar and polish. Instant value added back in and then any dirt you get on it is
your dirt, not some other guy's dirt.
Here are some questions:
Mileage?
Last time it actually drove?
Timing job ever done?
What kind of oil did he feed it? Synthetic or Conventional?
How *often* did he change the oil? Most of us lean towards 3K miles to keep it ultra clean for the timing chain setup. Sludge kills these motors.
Motor been replaced? (more likely than you think! lol)
When's the last fuel pump been done? LOL.
Major thing I ask about right now though is the fuel pump.. because you're saying a 10 hour trip. Mine will do a 10 hour trip if I break it up just to be safe, though it's done 3 hours, stop for 30 mins, 3 hours. That's not a lot to ask of a vehicle, but the fuel pumps are known to take a dump around X miles or X years -- depends on a lot. And it's hard to catch, sometimes it only loses pressure when it begins to get hot and tired on a trip. They'll run with 30Psi or less but it should be higher. Check the rail. It can be intermittent. Just make sure if you do take the trip you're prepared to do a fuel pump, and you're prepared to keep the tank pretty full so the pump doesn't starve and get too hot. Good luck!!! Excited to see the progress.
@DintDobbs funny enough it didn't tell me you tagged me... But I saw it anyway. Very nice visor

Looks like it might be a Lund Moon Visor.