1998 Mountaineer AWD TC ?

[410Fortune]

"I doubt like hell I’d gain 5mpgs with a 4406"

Why would you doubt this? No more power to the front end at all times results in better MPG its simple.
I agree its not always going to be 5mpg but there is a large gain to be had with every tank of fuel.
I have driven and owned several V8's AWD and a few converted to 4x4, the difference is quite obvious when you drive/own them both.

It is not tedious to reach down and gently pull it back into 4hi and press it forward into 2wd, there is no effort involved and you can easily do it every 30 feet if you need to?

"but for the average driver I think it’s benefits are exaggerated."
Have you owned/operated one that has been converted?
It is the single best upgrade a 5.0L Explorer can have, that is not an exaggeration in any way, period.
Ask people who have had both and see if they agree........

What was the best upgrade you have done to your 5.0?
4x4 conversion or headers would be the top two answers.

 

[Mbrooks420]

For my 5.0 it was the custom rear air ride, and snowplow. I used to carry in the neighborhood of 1,000 pounds of tongue weight, and plowed commercially for about 8 years.

I’ve never driven a conversion. I’m sure it has a lighter steering, and frees up power.

I don’t doubt it has its benefits and place. But it’s certainly not the best mod for everyone.

It might not be tedious for you to shift it in and out a bunch of times while driving, it’d get old for me.

For the 2-3mpg, and accelerated tire wear, I’ll keep the AWD that I never have to bother with.

 

[CDW6212R]

Another question trying understand how this all works. I've read all the threads on front shaft removal & drifting issues but haven't seen answer to specific question.

Anyway, currently have a junk TC (it was full of black stinking metal flake oil) in it trying to have some wheels for emergency use (not good being stranded in country). It rolls but binding like front brakes applied with front shaft in. (at least my transmission is ok which had me worried). So removed the shaft & drives ok but hard get off the property with only RWD. Know TC probably not last long!

So since I have no other wheels at moment. What is the worst can happen if TC dies right now with only RWD & very questionable TC? Will I loose all ability to stop if VC/gears/chain explode? Last thing want to do is be driving 20 miles to town & TC blows where hill & banks or drop off's. Or end up not being able stop & running into someone else. In other words, is this even viable emergency use vehicle right now?

Thanks

ps the seller of other TC that started this thread refunded my money. Awaiting pickup which should be on his dime as sent different TC than described. Will see.

Keeping eyes & options open other local vehicle replacements & the AZ TC.

My 98 Limited has the TC failed in it. I've had this truck for 2.5 years and driven it about 49k miles, since the 158k mark. The front drive shaft was not in it when I got it, the past owner had a mechanic take it out right after they got it(mismatched tires etc). The TC fluid was black, I changed it four times over the first couple of years. In about May I began feeling and hearing front binding noises. After replacing the four control arms, then I could tell the front differential was hurt. I swapped a good one from my Mercury, and one new CV axle. The binding was still there, then I knew the TC was shot for good.

I removed the front drive shaft then, and have been delivering mail with it as 2WD ever since. I think these TC will survive a long time when taken care of, and with the front shaft out, they can also do fine for a long time without the front stress or forces. You must be always mindful of parking on any incline without the front shaft. They will all roll on steep inclines noticeably. I deliver now on a long steep mountainous route. I stop at one address every day and spend about 90 seconds scanning outgoing parcels, with the customer helping. I hear the back end creaking as it imperceptibly is moving. You can hear it but the parking spot is mildly inclined. I told the customer to not worry about the noise, he thought something was wrong for it to make noise while parked. I explained and now we don't worry about the odd noise. I scan the stuff and get back in to continue on.


To the OP, for 2WD the rear clutches need to be replaced, at this age virtually all LSD's are worn out. With a good clutch set, a 2WD will pull on hills much better than when they are worn out. So part of why your truck doesn't move well on your steep property, is the 8.8 clutches, not the lack of AWD. I'm doing those myself today if all goes well.

 

[410Fortune]

AWD for snowplowing is good, but 4x4 is BETTER
LOL
Thanks for sharing you guys its always nice to see what people do with their trucks and what they think of their equipment

I have a stack of AWD t cases downstairs, low miles too
We keep these trucks going a long time around here, V6, V8, AWD, 4x4, I am a big fan of all RBV hey have earned some respect around here you could say

 

[Mbrooks420]

I’ve plowed with MANY 4x4s, including 4406 equipped F150s. The AWD is actually much more forgiving when you are turning full lock with a heavy blade full of snow.

 

[410Fortune]

That makes sense because only 35% power up front vs 50 = lighter steering
Do you run chains?

I plow with a Ace on tracks (52") a Rzr on tracks (72") an 86 F250 4x4 on chains with a 472 big block and Boss V plow, a John Deer compact tractor and soon a bulldozer......
Our road is 2 miles long from gate to the house, it is an old forest road along the base of the mountain that follows the river 45 miles from Canada, It can get quite interesting!!
We have 3 seasons here, Winter, Mud and getting ready for winter

 

[Turdle]

Wow, this has gotten way off topic. Pretty sure the OP just wants his truck back to normal.

AWD = best option for a street driven truck, without a doubt. The only time the AWD will really come into play is on slick wet surfaces. On these patchy surfaces is where you really need the AWD, because 4wd will not perform the same and may cause some front end wandering and slipping. The AWD center diff ( vicous clutch) will allow for this on pavement. It makes for a very sure footed drive on packed snow with dry pavement patches.





However, if you live west of the central time zone, the steep terrain of county roads will require low range gearing due to the lengthy, slow climbs. You just have to decide if you want the trade off-


As it is with every other modification, you gain some but you also loose something. every action has an opposite and there is no way around it.

 

[monty98]

Thanks to all! It is match to needs. AWD works for me! Already have a 4x4 & won't drive it snow here as it patchy switching clear or wet road, ice & snow depending on how hidden in curves & hollows.

Anyhow. Drove it to town with front axle out & wasn't sure going to make it home. The driver front end is growling loudly. Assuming differential. Seems louder now than before TC went out. Had mild growl for long time (checked & changed fluid & ok) but trying with & without shaft in past couldn't isolate it. Now it is evident.

With what said about the rear end limited slip probably causing difficulties getting out steep drive. I'm beginning think might just be time to retire it. Before my TC broke I was getting some slippage which if take out of OD it seemed to be ok or better at least. Fluid in tranny bright clear red. Does that sound like tranny might be going or any chance the TC was doing that?

It seemed like some slippage on my short road trip but that could be the junk TC in it.

The engine is strong but that seems about all left not needing some sort repair at the moment. Given the thing has been dependable for 325k miles it not surprising things starting to all go at same time.

Every once while a used one with low mileage pops up. But they disappear in 1-2 days. Unfortunately, more people than me know a good vehicle.

 

[Mbrooks420]

The slippage is likely the transmission. There are two right by me that are sweet. Ones got 65k, the other 110k. They are surely replaceable, you’ll just have to bevto the front of the line on one.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

Low mile 2nd gens/parts are hard to come by, when I put my AWD V8 drivetrain together for my 01, it took close to a year to get it all intact, I landed though at roughly 130K on the trans and 155K on the motor. Low mile trucks here go past quick, even V6s, I'm looking at a 170K mile 97 but might have something else in the works to pass on it, since it needs a transmission. A below 200K mile truck here will run over $2k, which is why I just keep fixing my 2000 despite it rolling 275K miles shortly.


If I was going to keep it, I'd go the route I have, mine at roughly 265K started "falling apart", I've ended up with it patched and found a 124K mile Mountaineer that was rotted for $400, run and drive now (wasn't then). Changing the transmission isn't a nice job, exhaust can be mean, air impact is nice for that, and if you go that route, be sure to get a low profile trans jack for like $100, it's worth it, I assure you that.

 

[410Fortune]

Have you ruled out the front wheel bearing as source of your growling?

 

[monty98]

Hey thought I'd update. I retired the old gal. Too many things needing fixed & electrical getting flaky & not fun to trace problems. Out here the mice move in quicker than you get out of the vehicle. Pretty sure a mouse has gotten its nibble fix on some of my wiring as poison disappears too!

This evening just acquired a 1997 Mountaineer v8 AWD. only 131k miles & same owner/family. Few things going to need fixed but its in good condition looks almost like new in/out. It has the tap tap tap on strain so manifold probably has hole somewhere. Hope not difficult get to as it was pretty easy on the 98. No heat for a long time (he used a 12v as had way too many great collector cars restoring to spend time fussing with this one). So have to trace that down but hoping it pretty simple. That & the overhead light console not working but likely simple solder fix (instructions found here on forum). Seems run like the 97 had previous to the 98. Like the 98-2001 tad better with the slight changes made through the years but this should be dependable ride to get me around in the bad weather that may come my way.

I found it interesting how many people know nothing about their vehicles. Saying it RWD when AWD... Gotta know how care for AWD especially those tires. So many contacted said didn't replace front & rear tires at same time & not even matching tires. Didn't even bother going to see those as asking too much anyway.

Probably should post separate question but thought I'd toss it in here. Does anyone know if front console wiring harness on 97 with only single manual temp & no computer can support the digital console on 98 that had digital temp & back fan plus the computer? Not sure want spend the time swapping out but would be nice to know.

Thanks for all your input. This forum is great!!! Helped a lot.

 

[RandomNerd2000]

You had a PREMIER Mountaineer? That sounds like your 98 was a Premier and your 97 is a regular XLT level truck if it was an Explorer. To answer that question, I want to say that's a harder swap. I'd bet on another note though your 98 had the wood grain radio trim that everybody including myself loves.