How to: 2 DOOR Fuel Pump Access Hole Installation

[Pete Deering]

Nothing ever goes without a glitch.. It appears that the safety clip rusted to pieces and some how part of it is inside the coupler where the release tool has to go. I've been soaking things with PB Blaster for a few days now. Tried to use a small pick to remove the debris but it seems rusted solid. I tried holding the coupler with channel locks to see if it would rotate in either direction. NO go.

Any suggestions ? anyone run into this before ?

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There is a company(SUR&R), that makes replacement fittings, there fuel lines need to be installed in there heat shield.

 

[Motorhogman]

1. That must be pressure switch for the EVAP system. the green valve is a vent for the EVAP system( turn it counter clock wise to unlock and remove while pushing down on it.
2. I had the same problem with the pump bolts. One bolt I could not remove, so I cut it off. If you cut a small piece off of the bolt head, you use a punch to turn it. The bolt are sealed to the surface, once you break that bond, you got it. I was able purchased similar bolt on line, no washer. When you add the washer, it come out to be the same length.
3. I uses the FSM for my car. Look in your owners manual that came with your car, at the back of the manual, it lists all the manual that re available for your car.

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Thanks, I ordered the SM in the CD version. I haven't tried to loosen the bolts yet. So that's not a problem yet. lol What I'm dealing with at the moment is what you see in the two pics I posted this am. It seems the coupler is rusted together because of the safety clip rotting away in there ?

 

[Motorhogman]

There is a company(SUR&R), that makes replacement fittings, there fuel lines need to be installed in there heat shield.

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If I'm not mistaken that line is one piece from the tank connection all the way to the fuel filter ?

 

[EB4X]

Good thing you did the access panel route....imagine the additional headache dealing with "surprise" issues with tank halfway down on ground...

 

[J_C]

If I'm not mistaken that line is one piece from the tank connection all the way to the fuel filter ?

I'd investigate whether someone like Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit that has the hose with the right fittings, then just replace the tank to fuel filter section, or just the fittings and buy the high pressure hose separately.

What was that pic you posted with the line attached to a chuck of rust, was that a piece of the sending unit cover and nipple broken off the rest? I mean then you need a new sending unit too, right? If you had only bought the pump...

 

[Motorhogman]

I'd investigate whether someone like Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit that has the hose with the right fittings, then just replace the tank to fuel filter section, or just the fittings and buy the high pressure hose separately.

What was that pic you posted with the line attached to a chuck of rust, was that a piece of the sending unit cover and nipple broken off the rest? I mean then you need a new sending unit too, right? If you had only bought the pump...

Nothing is broken. that piece of rust is what 's left of that safety clip. (pic on the left) It was disintegrated. From what I can see part of that clip must have some how ended up lodged in the coupler right where the release tool would go (pic on the right). I've managed to remove some of it with PB Blaster and a pick. I haven't bought any parts yet. Waiting to get the whole picture of what I'll need. Could very well end up needing the sending unit. Maybe a new line as well... I can't get that coupler to move at all in any direction. I'm going to continue to soak it with PB Blaster and pick away at that rust.

TY for the help

 

[Motorhogman]

Thought I got all the rust debris out of there but.. I insert the tool into the coupler and nothing gives. No click or feel like the latches are releasing. May not be going into the coupler far enough. I'll soak it a few more days with PB Blaster and WD 40, work on getting any more debris out and see what happens.

 

[EB4X]

Not to diminish claim of remaining debris, but those are OFTEN a pain to release... here's a technique you might try ... Push the fuel line forward first, while holding it forward insert the disconnect tool and then pull everything backwards.

 

[J_C]

sucky method of uploading pictures - straight from the 2000 year
this forum is totally outdated

That post was made in 2012. Some EF subforums, including this one, now allow direct upload, simply drag the pic into the comment box or browse to it on the computer.

However, in many cases it is as well to have the pic off-site, at a host that allows very large pictures. There are a few reasons:

1) Some people, especially in less developed areas, have slow internet access and don't want picture heavy topics until they need to see a specific picture, then they can click through to the host to see it.

2) Many forums resize pictures to a lower resolution, whether it be to save bandwidth, or fit the layout of their forum. Some people may mindlessly upload the highest res. pic that their phone or camera can take and then it's a good thing, but other times the resolution was higher than a forum supports because greater detail in the pic is important.

3) As mentioned in #2, forum layout may not allow presenting the entire pic at full resolution while an image hosting site has this specific purpose in mind, so even if the image is stored at full resolution on a forum, it may not fit within the post box dimensions. On this forum that limit appears to be approx 2100 pixels horizontal. It is smaller on some other forums that place left and right column content on both sides of a topic.

On the other hand, image hosting sites and free/vs-paid accounts come and go, so uploading to the forum has a better chance of being around long term, at least as long as the forum is.

 

[Motorhogman]

Not to diminish claim of remaining debris, but those are OFTEN a pain to release... here's a technique you might try ... Push the fuel line forward first, while holding it forward insert the disconnect tool and then pull everything backwards.

Thanx, It doesn't want to move. I put a pair of small channel locks on the line and gave it a few pushes. Tried to turn it also. I'm pretty sure I have all the debris out of there. Spraying WD and PB in there and going around with a pick I don't see any more rust color. That release method you described I have watched on You tube. Theirs's come right apart.. lol.. Not mine.

 

[Motorhogman]

I'd investigate whether someone like Dorman makes a fuel line repair kit that has the hose with the right fittings, then just replace the tank to fuel filter section, or just the fittings and buy the high pressure hose separately.

What was that pic you posted with the line attached to a chuck of rust, was that a piece of the sending unit cover and nipple broken off the rest? I mean then you need a new sending unit too, right? If you had only bought the pump...

Thanx, I checked out Dorman. Found they have new sending units and barbed replacement fittings so you don't have to replace the entire fuel line. They also have the lock ring, gasket, and screws. I'll have to figure out which fitting actually fits. two part #'s 800-130 and 800-131. Application says they both fit. One is a 11 mm x 5/16, the other 14mm x 5/16 . May be the way to go if this coupler doesn't come apart.

 

[J_C]

^ I wouldn't get a Spectra brand pump, but maybe the sending unit which Rock Auto has on closeout for $68 + S/H. Don't know how that compares to prices elsewhere:

2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Fuel Sending Unit | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

I'm only assuming this would work, and is the right part #.

 

[Motorhogman]

^ I wouldn't get a Spectra brand pump, but maybe the sending unit which Rock Auto has on closeout for $68 + S/H. Don't know how that compares to prices elsewhere:

2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Fuel Sending Unit | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

I'm only assuming this would work, and is the right part #.

 

[Motorhogman]

Thanx for the reminder. I forgot about Rock Auto. I've bought from them before. Price on these complete kits is good. O'reilly auto is close to $200.00 Haven't checked the other big box auto parts stores yet. I always check with my locally owned auto parts store before I buy on line or from any of the big names. Found a lot of units on Amazon in the $50.00 to $60.00 range. Prices ranging from $200.00 down to $49.00 makes me question the quality of the cheaper pumps.. or are the $200.00 ones price gouging for the same unit with a different name on it. Looking at this one if I order online. More Information for BRUTE POWER 1020003

 

[J_C]

I don't know about the off-brand kits, I mean I'd save money buying a 2nd tier sending unit without the pump included but for the pump itself, I'd want a major brand like Bosch or Denso.

 

[EB4X]

JUST THROWING this in here....not sure if it would apply to your 2000 .... but on my 95 I had to search and get a SPECIFIC Explorer assembled in the USA fuel pump as many were assembled in Mexico and COMPLETELY different design / dimensions on the fuel pumps/assemblies -not cross compatible at all between both countries setup (don't ask me why).... and many ebay sellers / auto parts sellers didn't have a distinction/ compatibility listing. Therefore have seller/ auto store do a VIN check confirmation before pulling the trigger on purchase.

 

[Motorhogman]

JUST THROWING this in here....not sure if it would apply to your 2000 .... but on my 95 I had to search and get a SPECIFIC Explorer assembled in the USA fuel pump as many were assembled in Mexico and COMPLETELY different design / dimensions on the fuel pumps/assemblies -not cross compatible at all between both countries setup (don't ask me why).... and many ebay sellers / auto parts sellers didn't have a distinction/ compatibility listing. Therefore have seller/ auto store do a VIN check confirmation before pulling the trigger on purchase.

Yes sir. USA and Canada models will have a #1 or #2 as the 1st digit in the VIN.. #3 indicates Mexico if I got it right and parts are different. Found out in my searching that the Bosch factory site will let you put in your full VIN # and come up with the correct pump for your vehicle.

 

[Motorhogman]

I don't know about the off-brand kits, I mean I'd save money buying a 2nd tier sending unit without the pump included but for the pump itself, I'd want a major brand like Bosch or Denso.

Good advise. I've got that Bosch 69128 PN (Fuel Pumps (69128) - Fuel Pumps - Bosch Auto Parts - Liferay DXP) written down in my notes. I'm finally at a point where when I push the release/ disconnect tool into the coupler it comes to a stop and then a little firmer push I hear the locking tabs (or what ever they are called) clearly "click". Still no movement with the fuel line at all. More PB Blaster and more WD 40.. More patience.

 

[Motorhogman]

I ordered a complete Carter unit. Pump and sending unit. $89.00 I have used lots of carter products back in the day and never had any QC issues. Worst comes to worse and the pump fails I have easy access to to through the floor now and I'll just order the Bosch pump to replace it. Those Bosch pumps are actually priced very reasonably. Still can't get that coupler to separate. Making some progress though, at least I can hear the locking tabs click..

 

[Pete Deering]

I ordered a complete Carter unit. Pump and sending unit. $89.00 I have used lots of carter products back in the day and never had any QC issues. Worst comes to worse and the pump fails I have easy access to to through the floor now and I'll just order the Bosch pump to replace it. Those Bosch pumps are actually priced very reasonably. Still can't get that coupler to separate. Making some progress though, at least I can hear the locking tabs click..

Try using this tool with your fuel line tool.