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2000 X AWD 5.0 cranks but no start after new exhaust/cats installed




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I love it!
Cousin Jared is this you? Bwahahahahahahaha ha ok funnin aside

Okay let’s slow way down

Your drivers door lock is probably just sticky
If the key opens the passenger side and the hatch plus turns the ignition then your driver lock needs needs cleaned

Good the check engine light comes on, then goes off while cranking.
As Josh pointed out this means the computer is seeing the CRANK sensor

The theft light should slow flash, then when the key is turned to START it should go off
If it does not go off you possible have a pats issue

If the theft light rapid flashes when you turn the key then you should wait 90 seconds because it will start to flash a trouble code for the pats security system

However the pats in a 5.0 truck disables the starter,
Not the spark

So here is what I want you to do

Clean you battery terminals and make sure connections are tight
Make sure battery is charged
Turn the key to “on” position

Check the red wire at the mass air flow sensor, with a multimeter or test light
It should have battery power


Does it?
 






I love it!
Cousin Jared is this you? Bwahahahahahahaha ha ok funnin aside

Okay let’s slow way down

Your drivers door lock is probably just sticky
If the key opens the passenger side and the hatch plus turns the ignition then your driver lock needs needs cleaned

Good the check engine light comes on, then goes off while cranking.
As Josh pointed out this means the computer is seeing the CRANK sensor

The theft light should slow flash, then when the key is turned to START it should go off
If it does not go off you possible have a pats issue

If the theft light rapid flashes when you turn the key then you should wait 90 seconds because it will start to flash a trouble code for the pats security system

However the pats in a 5.0 truck disables the starter,
Not the spark

So here is what I want you to do

Clean you battery terminals and make sure connections are tight
Make sure battery is charged
Turn the key to “on” position

Check the red wire at the mass air flow sensor, with a multimeter or test light
It should have battery power


Does it?
I am gonna do that right now. I will let you know as I just got this post because it has been hard for me to follow this also believe it or not. This is my first post and although I've made it sound very interesting LOL it's been hard to follow this thread because I'm learning how this breaks down and what not as far as people's comments and when they're posted and all that. I'm figuring out and I appreciate this thought and I'm going to check it out. I haven't had the vehicle in my house it's been in the parking lot of the Muffler installer exhaust installer so I now have the rig at my house so. I'll let you know.
 












Cant have one without the other!
Just don’t let em near the keys
 






Cant have one without the other!
Just don’t let em near the keys
okay fortune with a voltmeter I checked the red wire on the mass air flow sensor and I got nothing zeros. That's on a fully charged 12th plus Volt battery. And as far as the lesbians go one looks like Peter Griffin off a family guy and my ex-wife has shaped shifted towards her if you know what I mean LOL. right again zeros on the voltmeter at the mass air sensor
 






Start over with a "process of elimination" check list.
1) It doesn't have anything to do with the PATS (Ford's name for vehicle security)...
2)It will crank (turn over at the key)
I told fortune that with a voltmeter checking the mass air flow sensor on a fully charged battery checking the positive red wire on that sensor I got nothing. Zeros across the board
 






I told fortune that with a voltmeter checking the mass air flow sensor on a fully charged battery checking the positive red wire on that sensor I got nothing. Zeros across the board
Well I just realized something and that was I didn't turn the **** key on
 






okay fortune with a voltmeter I checked the red wire on the mass air flow sensor and I got nothing zeros. That's on a fully charged 12th plus Volt battery. And as far as the lesbians go one looks like Peter Griffin off a family guy and my ex-wife has shaped shifted towards her if you know what I mean LOL. right again zeros on the voltmeter at the mass air sensor
I just **** realized something that I didn't have the **** key on when I checked it so I'm gonna go check it again**** me
 






I just **** realized something that I didn't have the **** key on when I checked it so I'm gonna go check it again**** me
Okay strike that. Turn the key on I checked the red wire with a voltmeter on the at the mass air flow sensor and I got 12 plus Volts.
 


















I love it!
Cousin Jared is this you? Bwahahahahahahaha ha ok funnin aside

Okay let’s slow way down

Your drivers door lock is probably just sticky
If the key opens the passenger side and the hatch plus turns the ignition then your driver lock needs needs cleaned

Good the check engine light comes on, then goes off while cranking.
As Josh pointed out this means the computer is seeing the CRANK sensor

The theft light should slow flash, then when the key is turned to START it should go off
If it does not go off you possible have a pats issue

If the theft light rapid flashes when you turn the key then you should wait 90 seconds because it will start to flash a trouble code for the pats security system

However the pats in a 5.0 truck disables the starter,
Not the spark

So here is what I want you to do

Clean you battery terminals and make sure connections are tight
Make sure battery is charged
Turn the key to “on” position

Check the red wire at the mass air flow sensor, with a multimeter or test light
It should have battery power


Does it?
yes it does
 






Cant have one without the other!
Just don’t let em near the keys

yes it does
listen I'm still at a loss I just got done replacing The coil packs with brand new coil packs and I thought for sure that was going to be the problem but it is not it will not fire it will not send us I'm not getting a spark at the coil packs I'm getting power on the red wire on the hookup on the connection going to the coil packs but no spark fuel pump is definitely working had my neighbor listen for it as I crank the motor and yes and plus I smell fuel. stop the fuses none of the fuses are blown or missing it's not the relays all the relays are checked out the power distribution box or whatever it's called on a 2000 Explorer everything checks out to be good continuity and what not resistance and all that obviously we know it's not the crankshaft sensor ****ing **** the camshaft sensor evidently so that doesn't matter even though it's a new **** stop the coil packs it's not the wires spark plug wires I've traced the ground back to the starter and it seems to be fastened and securely tight and **** check engine light goes off when I crank the motor which from what I've been told means that the PCM acknowledging that part of the process or what have you. I don't know I'm going to go back and look at that process of elimination procedure and see if I miss something.
 






Power at red wire and no spark
Check engine light goes out when cranking
Theft ought Goes out when cranking

Any chance you can get us a video of the engine trying to start? Picture of engine bay? If you send them to my email I’ll post them

It is possible the computer is fried especially since messing with the high power oxygen sensor wiring has been part of this deal

Years ago I had an exhaust shop weld on my truck… they fried my computer
It took a while To figure it out computer truck was running but rough threw a ton of strange codes.
 






Power at red wire and no spark
Check engine light goes out when cranking
Theft ought Goes out when cranking

Any chance you can get us a video of the engine trying to start? Picture of engine bay? If you send them to my email I’ll post them

It is possible the computer is fried especially since messing with the high power oxygen sensor wiring has been part of this deal

Years ago I had an exhaust shop weld on my truck… they fried my computer
It took a while To figure it out computer truck was running but rough threw a ton of strange codes.
I am going to get you a video right now and send it to you it is 5:40 my time Pacific time I did do a diagnostic on it and the VSS came up as faulty I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it but I did replace both coil packs yesterday with brand new coil packs and still got the same issues so short of backtracking and following all the grounds and making sure they're connected yeah I'm at a loss so also keep in mind that I believe it was you that told me that since the check engine light is going off when I crank it and coming back on when I let off the key that is showing that the PCM is working correct? I may be wrong or misunderstood but I'll get you that video
 






I’m also pacific time
 






I’m also pacific time
well good to know I'm just I sent the pictures it won't let me I shorten the video as long as I could and that was from me turning the key on to turning it over to turning the key off 21 MB and it still says it's too large to send so I'll try something else
 






well good to know I'm just I sent the pictures it won't let me I shorten the video as long as I could and that was from me turning the key on to turning it over to turning the key off 21 MB and it still says it's too large to send so I'll try something else
Yeah I sent them to your email and that worked you probably already looked at em
 



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